Volvo T3 turbo???
 

Ok, so I really don't know if this would be useful at all, but I have an old Garrett T3 from my old Volvo 740 Turbo. Assuming I have my thoughts correct, the Volvo is a smaller (2.4L), lower compression motor and spooled that turbo at around 2300 RPM, so shouldn't a 617 spool it quicker? The main reason I am asking this is because the T3 from those Volvos is water cooled... i.e. they last 250,000+ on a Volvo....and they're capable of around 15psi (according to the Volvo guy I know, I don't have any specific facts to back this...) reliably.

What do you guys think?

Its a Garrett TB0363. Basically the same as the stock turbo already on the 617.

G@ssers spin up turbos faster than diesel because they have a lot more wasted energy in the exhaust.

Thanks, that's interesting (I'm kinda new to the diesel thing...). Do you not think there would be any benefit to the water cooling?

On a diesel, no. These turbos already last the life of the engine.

Meaning heat energy, much of which gets transferred to the turbo. That's where the water jacket is needed, to keep it cool(er).

Exactly. G@ssers often see 1600*f or higher exhaust temperatures while Diesels top out at around 1250*f.

I can tell this is going to be a big learning game...I'm sure I'll catch the curve, but I guess it's a different way of thinking: gas vs diesel... (for turbos I mean).

Ok, so here are a few more questions. I've seen guys wrap their headers in that heat insulating tape/gauze and say that it helps turbo spool because it's not letting heat escape...i.e. less heat lost to the compressor side so more efficiency.

Also, since I'm going to be building the motor before putting it in the vehicle (remember I'm the moron who wants to put a little bitty 617 in my Range Rover)...what is a realistic boost level that you should see on these for long term use that will not harm the internals (pistons/rings)...

Forced Induction, are you from the superturbodiesel site?

That wasn't very coherent on the boost question...what I meant to ask was depending on the level of "safe" boost for longevity, would the Sprinter/Liberty turbo that you guys are using still be the best bet considering I'll be hauling a 4600lb Rover around...I'd rather not have to worry about re-fabricating mounting brackets and such once I get it in the Rover. I'll probably end up opting for a custom header (=length tubes of course) since it's going to be in a foreign vehicle to the motor and I'd rather just build it to fit the Rover...thinking about running a stack out the hood anyway, soo......

I did notice somewhere on this or another forum a mention of higher rate valve springs, which I'm very familiar with from gas engine applications, but it does tend to cause a little more cam wear. How easy it is to find replacement cams for these or will I have to get one custom ground/hardened if the springs to take their toll on the original cam (it's already got 281k miles on it).

Those are the kind of people that either have no clue what they are talking about or want to sell you something.
By the time the manifold is hot, the turbo spooled quite some time ago. Wrapping is done mainly to reduce engine bay temperatures (especially in marine applications). Wrapping is also a great way to make the manifold crack.

From the factory they are set around 9psi but up to 13psi will not cause any problems with stock fuel settings.

Of course. I go by ForcedInduction on all the forums, except when its already taken (Then I use Zedd).

Sure. Its still the same boost pressure but the turbo will spool far quicker and work more efficiently.

You won't really need that unless you're planning on pushing 25psi+ of boost. MB will be happy to $ell you a new cam. If you bring an original cam to a performance/machine shop, I'd bet they could make a billet cam to fit your needs.

Thank you very much...and I'm not worried about the manifolds cracking...I edited the last post before I saw your response (guess we're both on now)...but I'll most likely be making a custom header because of the vehicle application and other reasons.

Haha, Zedd...nifty.

Thanks man.

Yeah, its waaaaaaaay past my bedtime (I usually conk out around 6am. :D)

Take a look at jet-hot. I've been quoted around $150 for a cast-iron OM617 manifold.

Hey, if I wanted to go ahead and try to source another turbo like you're saying where should I look? I tried to type in a couple things on e-bay with not much success...any place that you know happens to have a few of them, and which would you say is the best for my weight scenario. I guess if it'll push a sprinter I should assume I could make it work, hah, but that's of course a totally different motor :).

P.S. (Thanks for the Jet-Hot suggestion. I almost forgot about them...and I'm seriously thinking about them to do the pistons when I get this thing apart...maybe the headers if I go that route as well! I like the idea of lower compartment temps!!!)

Turbos
 

Just look at bgkast or F.I.'s signatures they both have VNT turbos and in the performance section there are very good write ups on it. They can be had for around 75-85 dollars on ebay. But remember you will need to increase fuel as well to see any sizeable gains basically just look at forcedinduction setup, he has on of the most powerful documented 617s in the states that is. (he has proof a lot of people will tell you a lot of stuff but F.I. can prove it)