11.79 @.....
 

haha sorry to mislead but thats my 0-60, i timed it today on the way home from school at a tollbooth, and i got 11.79 sec to 60, i held the brake and brought the boost up before i took off (actually got a little wheelspin :cool:) so hopfully i can get that number even lower, id like to be in the 7 or 8 second range if thats not too much of a low number to strive for... :dancefool

Figure about $3000 in parts and work, you'll get there. :D

where do u think ill be after i turn up the full load screw and intercool it?

My E300, stock will run an 8.5 sec 0-60 (or therabouts) with 175 HP.

I don't even think it's possible to max out the pump on an OM617 enough to get 175 HP with the stock elements and intercooling won't do much good at stock boost levels.

Some good initial performance mods are the installation of an upgraded turbo (VGT, like some of the guy have done here), intercooling and maxing out the full load adjustment.

Beyond that, you could try a set of Tomnik's 6mm "Holly" pump elements and I think you'd be in the park.

so i should turn the full load screw as much as i can? whats the best turbo to put on my car... aftermarket or from another vehicle? and does anyone make performance injectors for the 617?

Just remove the full load lever. The screw only has a 20p range (max up to 145hp) so you might as well go all the way. Search "MW-pump full load adjustment" under my user name and you'll find the detailed guides.

real quik before i search do i have to pull the plate off the pump to pull the full load lever?

Yes. You have to remove the plate to adjust it anyways.

so is it easier to remove the oil filter housing or just try and get the plate off without removing the filter housing? looks like somewhat of a PITA to take off the filter housing.. :2guns:

I didn't have any problems with it in place. Get a right angle screwdriver and a normal screwdriver about 12" long. If you replace the flatblade bolts with allen head bolts it will make later adjustments much easier. A strong 1/4" pen magnet can also be used once the bolts are loose.

http://www.bareasschoppers.com/forksprings/angle.jpg

Once you've had your pump out a couple times and familiarized yourself with the position and workings of the adjustments things get easier, for the first few times I'd take the pump out. Here is a quick run down on how I get the pump out with the filter in place.

Re: IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the OM61x series
I thought I would add a quick comment about R&R of the mw pump. While I was making many small changes in succession and I had the pump in and out a lot. I got it down to under 30 mins from shutdown on the bench and back on and running again. The key was removing the lower support bracket from the block and the pump. With this out of the way all you have to do is set your timing or insert the pin, remove the three mounting nuts and the fuel lines and linkage, grasp the pump by the ALDA and lift up and back. Once you have zeroed in on a setting it is a good idea to reinstall the bracket. The return spring can be a *****. I hope this helps and encourages more of you guys to go after these adjustments in a incremental fashion.

Bob

Oh yeah this is done with everything else still in place oil filter, shutdown and all.

i dont kno how to adjust the timing on the pump tho i havnt gotten that far in my research yet. i feel like i might screw somthing up if i take the whole pump out, do u have any pics of the removal process?

On an 85 you are in luck as your IP has the port for a timing pin, that makes things much easier. There used to be a few sites that had bootleg MB manuals, or you could just buy the official CD. It is a good investment.

what does the timing pin do? is it like on the big rig diesels where u set the motor to like tdc #1 and put a pin in the flywheel? how do i do it? my haynes manual isnt much help

$400 at the junkyard will get you a euro-spec 500 motor, that'll get you in the 7-8 second range ;)