Kartek,
I am waiting on a resistor here, they only got 2 watt tho, not 1.4?
Anyway, just to be sure, did you connect the resistor to the wires going to the MAF or the wires going to the ECU end?
As I am thinking before clipping anything to just take the wires out the MAF without any damage and join them with the resistor, making a loop at the ECU end.
Cheers.
Olivier

I connected it at the MAF end. You can use the 2 watt resistor, it's just over kill and fatter than necessary. The 1/4 watt will hide nicely under the wrap.

If you want to test, I think it should be no problem to pull the connector out of the MAF and just tape the resistor across the 2 terminals.

~Oopsss...
I thought it was 1.4, not 1/4. Big difference between a quarter and one and a quarter. They are fat indeed. LOL... I showed me one similar...
Thank you Kartek, I'll do that indeed, just unplugg the wires from the MAF and slide the resistor instead somehow :)
All the best.
Olivier

Can someone explain to me how to delete the engine clogging EGR without the engine going into limp mode. I have tried everything I can think of other than going into the ECU, and it always cuts power in half, and sets a code and CEL. My car is a 98 E300TD.

There's a lengthy discussion and solution here:

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/168261-got-time-egr-bypass-606-turbo.html

Sweet! My deletion throws a code every once in a while depending on the time of year. I will do this one instead. As you can see in the picture I have no MAF. Thanks Evan!

What turbo did you put in there? How easy/ hard was the swap? What was needed? The exhaust fitting and other.
What filter? Part number make etc... on both
How does the wastegate operate? If its by boost only, how does the gears change nicelly as they MAF or the car electronic open the wastegate to have 0 boost in gear changed, up or down, this is my understanding anyway.
cheers.
Olivier

Hi Oliver,

I have done quite a bit of modifications and a new exhaust manifold has to be fabricated. The T3/T4 Garrett turbo has a pressure waste gate. As long as the computer is seeing the proper boost it could care less that your vacuum solenoid is operating nothing and plugged up.

If you want more information please email me as I do not want to hijack this thread.

My point to share is that the MAF is not that important on these cars. If you want to find out unplug it and take you car for a drive.

Hi Kartek,
I did it 2 days ago. I took the plg out and insert the resistor. So far it seems OK, no boost loss. Thank you ;)
Then the ECU rely on the boost sensor only now? Is that correct?
I wonder if there is a way of tweaking the sensor the other way around then before when I put a resistor on the blue/ red wire, it was increasing the boost and the car was a little swiftier, but now without the MAF it doesn't help, its better without.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/275688-easily-cheaply-increasing-boost-e300-turbo-diesel-w210-606-a.html
if it work one way it might wrk the other way? I wonder what are the other connections on the MAF for?
Cheers.
Olivier

Reviving an old topic.
I did the MAF delete and strangely the wastegate doesn't close properly compare to when the MAF is connected.
This is odd...
Any input there?
I wonder if the resistor is OK?
What happen is that the ECU let the transducer open and this release the wastegate, lacking boost...
Odd...
Cheers :)

Little update. All good now :)
I went to get new resistor and they were different then the one I was given a while ago...
This is why it was not working me guess...

Glad you got it sorted. If the 1/4 watt resistor is too small and burns out over time, a 1/2 watt can be substituted. It's just a little larger and more robust.

Same resistance value, just handles more power.

Cheers :)
I might do that next time :)

Any advance on the lag at start up? This is buggering me now... Sooo slow to get the revs and the kick in that its actually dangerous as the car take a while to move... Not the best at a busy intersection trying to cross...
Once pass 2000 it kick in but dear me, sometimes it take ages...
Someone once said you can make a coffee before it kick in and defo there is some serious lad at start up :(

Cheers :)

I realize this is an old thread but I wanted to share my MAF (22k resistor) delete observations.

1. The car ran good with no MIL lights and no smoke.
2. However it seemed to have a small lag at take off, required more throttle/pedal for normal take off and getting up to speed.
3. Fuel mileage went down slightly, maybe 2 mpg.

To make sure this was not all in my head and me being paranoid I removed the resistor and the throttle response and fuel mileage returned.

Did anybody else with the MAF delete experience any of these symptoms?

Thanks

The prior owner applied this mod to my E300 when he had it.

When I had the CKP trouble last summer, I deleted the mod in an attempt to remove any possible causes of the problem and put the system back to stock.

I did have an issue when the mod was in place, if someone short-started the car (cranked before the glow cycle was completed) then the Check Engine/Electronics warnings were issued, code P0400 set, and limp mode set. This caused a problem with valet parking or if I let someone use the car. I ended up having to put a cheap code reader in the glove box to deal with this.