You missed the smoke part also.;) See post #47

Air filter is new

I should also check to make sure the over boost protection valve is not venting prematurely.

I searched but did not find a post with pics on disassembling the ALDA capsule. If you know of such a post, please post a link. I want to open up the ALDA and see if it can be cleaned up and sealed. Are they rebuildable. There's 4 phillips head screws holding it together.

I don't think that you can buy the aneroid capsule for the ALDA, probably look for a used one.

The overboost is connected to the ALDA, you've disabled it.

If you can't get over 9psi without the ALDA, it is not ALDA related nor overboost protection.

Sorry to miss some of the earlier details. Does the boost get right to 9psi around 2500-3000rpm and just hang there or does it just lazily make it up in the vicinity at higher RPMs? If it seems to make all of its power and then peter out, with no smoke (other than the early off-boost smoke) with the ALDA removed I'd think that there is a fuel supply issue; plugged filter, tank vent plugged, plugged intake strainer, etc. Have you tried feeding it directly from a container of diesel fuel under the hood?

ok getting closer. Seems like you should be getting enough fuel as you now have smoke. I would still want to know fuel pressure, just because. Wastegate spring is looking much more likely. I do not know of any easy way to check it.

Not sure if parts for the Alda are available, I have a spare(that works) if you do not find one.

Right Jeff, cannot be the over boost solenoid. :D I should be looking at a system diagram before spouting off.

Fuel pressure was set and adjusted to 20 psi a few months ago with my adjustable fuel pressure relief valve. The fuel pressure gauge is currently disconnected but I can hook it back up and check. I'll check out your other ideas also.

47Dodge, I have a spare IP, if the ALDA in it is also no good, I may need your's.

Haven't done anymore to the car other than drive it. It feels peppier with ALDA removed. I pulled the ALDA from a spare IP and pressure tested it. It retracts with pressure and will hold pressure. The plunger on the bad ALDA sticks out more at rest and is probably the reason why I was not getting more fuel with the screw fully ccw. I will be putting the good ALDA in before any more testing.

I got tired of having the boost gauge temporaily installed (hanging on rubber bands) and did something about it. I put it in the cluster between the speedo and tach. Seems like an ideal spot. :)

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...043011_001.jpg

I checked the over boost relief valve and it leaks when pressure tested (no power to solenoid). I connected power to it, it drew 1/2 amp but I did not hear it click. So I bypassed the solenoid and still can't get it higher than 9 psi boost.

How easy (or hard) is it to reach 12 psi? The FSM says 12 psi at full load at 4000 rpm in first gear. I was in testing it while going up a hill in 4th and flooring the pedal. Is it possible 9 psi is normal for the way I was testing it? My transmission cannot be put into 1st.

Once I adjusted mine it will hit 12psi floored, at anything above about 2500 rpms. It is not a slow climb. I feel your reluctance to really get into the spring especaily knowing that the snap ring is a pain, but think you really have exhausted all other reasonable avenues. Sorry no magic wand....

By the way I never did do anything to the IP on the 300. Now the 240 is a differant matter, full on tuning plus manifold change.

for the love of god, just adjust the wastegate >.<

I tried and failed miserably trying to get the spring off. Couldn't even get purchase on it to get it started. Even if I got it off, getting it back on is even harder. Have you adjusted a Garrette in situ in a 617.952? Please post tips and tricks on how you did it, tools used etc. Pics very helpful

I'll look at my spare(garrett) and see if I can come up with some ideas. I am lucky my 300 has the kkk turbo, nice and easy to adjust. This is really a parts car at this point though.

I made a wastegate cover coil spring eliminator. I had a junk turbo as a model for the mockup. I'll never have to fight with that spring ever again. :cool: Four screws gets the cover off!


I tried again to get the spring off the turbo in the car but no luck. I think I am gonna have to pulll the turbo. Will I run into any problems such as rusted exh manifold bolts or something else? Will I need a new exh manifold gasket or can I use the same one?

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...050211_004.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...050211_006.jpg

I was about to pull the turbo when I gave it one last try. I sharpened a small screwdriver to a chisel point, shoved it under the spring to lift it and bent it a little so the tip is sticking up enough to grab it with a long nose and yanked it off. I didn't care if it got mangled since I have the spring eliminator.

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Mangled spring laying on coolant hose. 13 mm wrench adjusting wastegate.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1304450048.jpg
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Here it is installed and back together.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...1304451778.jpg

I've already adjusted it twice and can't imagine doing it without the spring eliminator, which take 10 minutes start to finish. I don't even have to take hose off the nipple.

Here's a video of the boost at 11 psi. I have to tweak it one more time to get it to 12 psi. The white boost gauge is 0 to 15 psi, o is at 7 o'clock and 15 is at 5 o'clock, where the needle tops out is about 11 psi.
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CLICK TO PLAY!
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...050311_004.jpg

I just took some pictures, with the ring removed, and of the ring. Mine was not rusty so it came off easy. Guess you don't need the pictures now. Glad to here you got it.

I would like to see it. Please post them.

I adjusted the wastgate one more time. It is now maxed out and I can only get up to 11.5 psi. I suppose the spring is weakened by age and I can shim it with a spacer to get more boost? Is it worth my while to go through the trouble get another 0.5 psi? Frankly, I do not feel any seat of the pants difference going from 9 to 11 psi. Maybe I need to adjust the ALDA better to get the correct balance between fuel and boost? How would I do that?

for now I would not try to get more boost. Alda has a sealing cap to prevent tampering, pry this off. Loosen nut, and turn the set screw counterclockwise to bring fuel on sooner. Might as well just max it out. If it makes smoke then back off a little. Not likely to make smoke though. You may see some increase in boost, or boost coming on earlier.

here are the pictures. One shows the ring off. it is a bit hard to tell but the end of the ring should have a "tang" the a screwdriver can get under. Other picture is of the adjustments(wastegate) after the cover is off.

ok think this is it.

47dodge, was the motor where you took the spring off the turbo installed in a car? I think it makes a world of difference if it was out of the car so you can see what you are doing and have better access. Did you try putting the spring back? That's harder than taking it off. I would also like to hear from those who have R&R'ed the spring with the turbo in the car, tools you used and how you did it.

I can envision a removal tool that is a ring just big enough to allow the spring to go inside it. This ring is on a short shaft attached to a handle. The ring would have a sharpened chisel edge which allow you to easily "catch" the tang, encircling it and allow you to lift the tang and slide it along the spring's circumference and get it off easily.

yes turbo is in the car still. I used a very small screw driver to pick the tang, and another small screwdriver to peel it out. Goes back in easy, as long as you put one end in then sort of roll it in a bit at a time. I have never liked this type of ring, a regular snap ring with the two holes for a snap ring pliers would be better.

That is amazing! What o'clock position was your tang? I tried picking it with a screwdriver similar to the one in your pic and the tang just keeps popping off. I must be a real klutz!

So you have taken the spring off and put it back it with the motor still in the car? How about doing it again but shoot a video this time? It will be useful to show the correct technique many have struggled with.

it was about 6 o'clock. I do not have a video camara, sorry. By the way the screwdriver in the picture is far too big and blunt. The screwdriver I used has a blade about 1/8" wide, and you need two of them. Just get the tang up slightly, only enough to get the second screwdriver next to the first one.then rebite the first. It is much like changing a tire, manually.

Interesting your tang is at 6 o'clock, which gives better access..

Both turbos that I have has the tang at 12 o'clock, which means working blind and the inlet housing is in the way of prying.
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The engine is running well. I'll have to do some 0-60 runs to see if it runs any faster with the 2.5 psi higher boost.

mmmK, so

Has anyone taken the stock wastegate off the garrett and stuck on the adjustable one from the KKK on their w123?
the garrett has a plate on the opposite side from the stock WG and it should be easy to install the kkk one there, and thread the hole of the stock one and put a pipe plug in.

The hardest part of adjusting the garret WG is removing the back plate without messing up the studs. Once you have it apart an adjustment is easy.

I took the easy way and made a manual boost controller. Never needed to dig into the waste gate controller.

Hi guys! I read with interest your comments on boost pressure. I drive a 84 300SD though it stays in the garage mostly. Recently I converted a 1960 studebaker 3/4 ton pickup by installing an engine from an 85 300 SD. It performs quite well but would like to find a speedo drive gear that would slow the speedometer down about 5MPH. The trans is from a 300D with a standard cable.
The interest in boost pressure comes from the new turbo recently installed in the pickup. 1.1 bar translates to 15.95 PSI boost. I have connected the ALDA direct to the manifold and eliminated the overide circut. That means I am depending on the waste gate to control the boost. How much greater than 16 is safe. My waste gate is adjustable and I have a 3" straight exhaust. Connecting a boost gage is easy but where would one best connect the EGT gage for the correct reading while doing trial and error with the waste gate. I have alwo removed the EGR.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ickups/580.jpg

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f1...ckups/2047.jpg

I like it!

16psi is too much. If you haven't been in the pump to mess with anything, 12psi is all you need. For the EGT gauge you want to tap into the manifold, pre turbo, directly in front of the turbo inlet. You will have to pull the turbo to do this-the up side is that with the turbo off it will be very easy to adjust the wastegate.

5mph isn't terribly far off, but I'm sure some other people can chime in with the correct year speedo to grab for a conversion

Does anyone know how stiff the spring is on a Garrett T3 turbo waste gate actuator? Most says that the boost to open the waste gate should be around 10 psi, but if I stick a compressed air into the actuator port, the waste gate does not pop open till about 60 psi on the compressor gauge. Please advise if I'm doing it wrong. The engine is a OM617 on a 84 300sd. Thanks. ( If there is a thread for this can someone redirect me to it)

You are right the waste gate should start opening at 9-11 psi.

Do you have a boost gauge on your car to verify what you are getting over the road?

Do you have an air leak in your test setup. Perhaps the diaphragm is leaking.

16psi is already WAY too much. 12psi is all your engine can use, anything more is just heating the intake air.

unless an intercooler is added.

I run or try to shift at 16,but I have been as high as 26 psi with no lack of fuel.only mods were ALDA delete, and strait exhaust

/

just curious....what was the temp while 26psi?


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temp is 80,I have a 170f thermstat in my diesel also.I know it should be not possible,but maybe someone messed with the car before I got it.

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thanks mate,... but not the coolant temp....exhaust temp...

I think you are close to total meltdown :) just joking but I suppose that
you are way over regular temps....


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don't know,I don't stay there long,and beside now 16 is all I go and for a short time.

Late To The Party
 

9.9.2018 I just discovered this great thread, THANK YOU ALL for the detailed inputs and ideas .

I discovered a you tube video from that place in Bellingham, Washington (Kent) that shows him removing the wastgate cover spring with a crappo Harbor Freight pick tool .

My wastegate diaphragm is toast, it leaks pressure/vacuum so it was disconnected and plugged when I bought the car, now I know I need to find another diaphragm before I open it up, hopefully on the car .

I see Funola is still driving and enjoying his car, that's good to know ,I've only had this car 6 ~ 9 years and am still discovering bugs and DPO / DPM bodges here and there .

One More Question
 

This is the style of turbo I have, what's the thing with triangular cover and vacuum nipple ? .


Attachment 149140

TIA,

Not the same car, car in this thread was my 83 and was sold for parts due to rust. Had a great running engine and rebuilt tranny from PO. I am driving an 85 now with zero rust.

I have a good diaphragm from a Garrett T3 turbo somewhere. Can't tell from your small pic what turbo you have.

O.K., understood ~ the damn tin worms tend to ruin all the fun .

I have a Garret T3, that thumbnail was just a stock photo I copied and pasted .

I could really use that diaphragm .