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  #31  
Old 04-10-2011, 10:16 PM
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Originally Posted by 47dodge View Post
Your 9 psi boost is likely a weak spring in the waste gate. If you have a KKK turbo it is easy to adjust, the garret is a little harder. Look up waste gate adjustment on this site and you should be able to find it. On my 300d it was at 9 psi also, and I put it to 12psi. Stock pump settings on this one. Alda is removed, and egr blocked.
I have the Garrett. I found a few good DIYs. I couldn't get the flat spring retainer tang on the wastegate cover to lift. The tang is right under the inlet housing which is in the way of visibility so I was working by feel. Garrett could have installed the tang in a more accesible/ visible spot to make it easier. Looks like they did that on purpose and don't want you to fu*k with it. I used a small flat blade screwdriver but it kept slipping off the tang. Very frustratiing. I will make a special tool with a sharp chisel point to get under the tang in order to lift and hook it and see it that works.

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  #32  
Old 04-11-2011, 06:36 PM
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by the way the oil separater came, and is now on the car, thanks
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  #33  
Old 04-11-2011, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 47dodge View Post
by the way the oil separater came, and is now on the car, thanks
Excellent! I'm glad that parts of my 240D lives on in others 240D's.

I got the wastegate tools made but haven't tried them out yet. Hope they work.
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  #34  
Old 04-20-2011, 10:53 AM
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I got a hold of a junk Garrett turbo from a 617 with a seized turbine (been sitting out in the elements) and played with getting the wastgate cover off. The spring was corroded in by the oxidized aluminum groove that it sits in. After a lot of scraping and with the help of penetrating oil, I got the spring off. I then tried getting the spring and cover back on and have not been successful yet. Maybe I'm just clumsy but this job seems to be a royal PITA do do in situ if I am having problems on the bench.

I am going to try a manual boost controller before trying anything else. I think my adjustable fuel pressure relief valve should work just fine.
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  #35  
Old 04-22-2011, 11:43 AM
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I made a MBC from an old (weak) fuel pressure relief valve, a 3/8 brass tee, a 1 " L 3/8 hose and some clamps. It tested at 12 psi opening pressure w the cap all the way in (spring fully compressed). By loosening the cap till it almost falls off (spring least compressed) pressure is 5 psi.

I am still getting max 9 psi boost (with the MBC valve cap all the way out @5 psi opening pressure). The boost comes on earlier with throttle input but max boost remains the same, There is a definite improvement how it accelerates. Should I shorten the spring in the MBC to get a lower opening pressure than 5 psi?

What should I do next to get it to 12 psi boost? What will that extra 4 psi give me in performance?


.temporary plastic bag & twist tie to catch the parts if the cap comes off
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  #36  
Old 04-22-2011, 11:45 AM
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deffinitly get it up to 12 lbs <- you'll get that
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  #37  
Old 04-25-2011, 06:37 PM
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Lets look at basics, generally speaking more fuel will give more boost,less fuel less boost. So boost is limited by two things fuel, and wastegate. Assuming your manuel boost controller is keeping the wastegate closed, then there is a lack of fuel. If I were working on this the next step I would take to install a fuel pressure gauge, and see if it is at least up to specs. Think around 18- 20 psi. If not get it up, and see what improvement you get. next remove alda at least for now. If you get into ip adjustments later you may want it back on. But now is not the time to get into ip adjustments. If this does not work then I would really expect that the wastegete is dumping, and getting it working right will be required. I have a spare for the garrett. I'll look and see what condition it is in.
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  #38  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:09 PM
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Or the turbo could be unbalanced and not spin up as easily... though I'd imagine you'd hear that.
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  #39  
Old 04-25-2011, 07:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Forced Induction View Post
With an intercooler the air density is increased, so that means less boost should be used since you're flowing more air psi-for-psi.
10psi with a decent intercooler flows the same volume and mass of air as 15psi with no intercooler.
A rather general statement, but a lot of things work into the P=V/T equation there Lance.

If the intercooler is dropping the temperature by 1/3, then yes in theory the pressure will also be lower by 1/3 for the same mass. However, this also depends somewhat on where the pressure measurement is taken as the pressure pre-intercooler will be higher than post-intercooler due to the temperature drop and to the restriction that the intercooler might pose to airflow. You're also making a pretty big assumption that the temperature will drop by 1/3.

Now I beileve that the previous posts are providing information regarding how much more boost the enigne can handle at cooler temperatures (and thus add more fuel) rather than how to calculate P=V/T
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  #40  
Old 04-25-2011, 08:27 PM
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So apparently you've already chosen his intercooler, Lance.

Funny though, because I see most of these guys who are adapting and installing used/junkyard-find turbos, also adapt and install used/junkyard-find intercoolers (ex: Saab) and aren't necessarily getting optimum cooling nor optimum pressure drops, even finding optimum locations for airflow nor plumbing, ... thus my comment that it's a pretty big assumption.
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  #41  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:12 AM
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Pardon me All:
Where does the intercooler go? Before or after turbo? Thanks
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  #42  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by oldsinner111 View Post
Pardon me All:
Where does the intercooler go? Before or after turbo? Thanks
There is no intercooler on the 617. If you want to add one, it goes AFTER the turbo.
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Last edited by funola; 04-26-2011 at 01:58 PM.
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  #43  
Old 04-26-2011, 11:58 AM
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An intercooler goes after the turbo, between the turbo and the engine's intake manifold to cool the compressed-air charge.
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  #44  
Old 04-26-2011, 01:56 PM
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Originally Posted by babymog View Post
An intercooler goes after the turbo, between the turbo and the engine's intake manifold to cool the compressed-air charge.
That's what I meant to say.
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  #45  
Old 04-26-2011, 05:43 PM
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Just got the ALDA off. I only had an adjustable wrench to fit the large locknut but had a hammer and a 12" 3/8 drive ratchet extension which rested on the nipple of the ALDA and hit with a hammer to loosen then I was able to use my fingers to loosen it all the way. I put a bicycle pump on the ALDA and at first there was no movement but after a bit of fiddling with it it started to move as I pump. It would not hold pressure though. Once the pressure drops, the plunger retracts. Is the ALDA ok per my description? I haven't taken it for a drive yet with ALDA removed.


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