Whats involved in adding a turbo to a non-turbo 79 300TD - Page 2 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

Mark DiSilvestro · #16 04-19-2011, 10:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by babyjames

I don't think that will get 'er done. You need the drive gear from the transmission, I believe.

Speedometer is matched to the diff-gearing. Swapping the tranny drive-gears won't work.

If you might need to swap automatics anyway, Instead of adding a turbo, you might consider dumping the automatic for a stickshift conversion. Then no need to swap exhaust, engines, differentials, speedometers, etc...

Happy Matoring, Mark

vstech · #17 04-19-2011, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Targa-NF

Yah I remember now that is was better to swap out the whole engine and tranny. Shes a clean rig and I have a strong engine in a rusted out SD. Will just swap out it all. Another thing I forgot to ask is was it 84 the last of the Super bullet prof 617? I thought it was 81-85. So is 85 the engine they changed or was it 86? looking at a few different CD,SD,TD's and dont want the one that was changed from lets say the 83 turbo 617.

Thanks for all the help everyone.
Jay

... the transmission in the SD is not the same as the D series vehicles. the speedometer is electronic in the SD, so you'd have to find a transmission from a 123 D series vehicle to swap tailshaft parts from to make it mechanical again for your wagon.

davidfaulk · #18 04-19-2011, 12:20 PM

Just an opinionated side note...I've had both turbo and non-turbo models (1980 300d & 300sd) and I noticed that the non-turbo model I had ran much cooler, rarely topping 80 deg Celsius. Was it because of the lack of a turbo? probably. My turbo version ran at an even 100 deg. Would this temp decrease increase the motor longevity? I always thought so. Keep it simple, or drive a 240D and you will realize that the 79 300TD is not that slow.

winmutt · #19 04-19-2011, 02:09 PM

As long as you dont plan long daily interstate commutes or cross country travelling the non turbos are just fine as is. Id stay away from a 79 just because of the ACC.

leathermang · #20 04-19-2011, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidfaulk

Just an opinionated side note...I've had both turbo and non-turbo models (1980 300d & 300sd) and I noticed that the non-turbo model I had ran much cooler, rarely topping 80 deg Celsius. Was it because of the lack of a turbo? probably. My turbo version ran at an even 100 deg. Would this temp decrease increase the motor longevity? I always thought so. Keep it simple, or drive a 240D and you will realize that the 79 300TD is not that slow.

While your Turbo was putting out half again the HP as the NA engine... the addition of the oil squirters..one for each piston... and the pistons with annular rings open from the bottom for that oil to squirt into... probably made the working temperature of the interior parts the same... and what counts is what temperature the metal parts are designed to work at... if at 100c then there would be no downside to the apparent 20 degree difference in working temperature....

Mark DiSilvestro · #21 04-22-2011, 03:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by davidfaulk

Just an opinionated side note...I've had both turbo and non-turbo models (1980 300d & 300sd) and I noticed that the non-turbo model I had ran much cooler, rarely topping 80 deg Celsius. Was it because of the lack of a turbo? probably. My turbo version ran at an even 100 deg. Would this temp decrease increase the motor longevity? I always thought so. Keep it simple, or drive a 240D and you will realize that the 79 300TD is not that slow.

Not so sure the turbo is causing higher operating temps, as my '84 NA Euro 300TD also has been running in the high '90s, even with a new radiator and thermostat. There was a recent thread on this issue. And I'm not certain my temp guage is accurate either. It has never gone to the red zone and no other cooling problems or boil-over in the past three years I've had this car.

Many years ago, a friend had a pair of 300Ds - one NA, the other turbo. The NA car seemed much peppier taking off from a stop, as the turbo version seemed to suffer from turbo-lag. I only learned since I joined this forum, about the different rear-end ratios on the NA and turbo verions.

Since my wagon is also a manual-shift, I have no desire to complicate and clutter my engine with a turbo. I too prefer to keep things simple.
Except for perhaps an occasional long, steep hillclimb, I have no complaint with the power of this car.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Daman858 · #22 04-22-2011, 08:21 AM

I actually enjoy my non-turbo 300CD and never even thought of putting a turbo on it or switching engines. You would be surprised at the performance you can get by simply putting in some new/rebuilt injectors, a valve adjustment and an IP tweak. As far as the AC goes, my York compressor is rock solid and my system works as new, just did a check and it was 39 deg.F at the center vent. Still running R12.

Targa-NF · #23 04-22-2011, 04:26 PM

Im going to try it as is... Im only driving around town. A non-turbo might be fine. I got my CD for going fast.

Also Winmutt, you said " Id stay away from a 79 just because of the ACC "
What is ACC ? Do you mean air conditioning?

winmutt · #24 04-22-2011, 05:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Targa-NF

Also Winmutt, you said " Id stay away from a 79 just because of the ACC "
What is ACC ? Do you mean air conditioning?

AKA Evil servo.

Mark DiSilvestro · #25 04-22-2011, 10:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Targa-NF

Im going to try it as is... Im only driving around town. A non-turbo might be fine. I got my CD for going fast.

Also Winmutt, you said " Id stay away from a 79 just because of the ACC "
What is ACC ? Do you mean air conditioning?

Automatic Climate Control. Through about 1980, the US-market 300D/TD was saddled with a system built around an early '70s design Chrysler electro-mechanical servo/heater-valve assy. Not so sure the later electronic ACC is that much better.
I very much prefer the manual heat-AC found in the 240D and my '84 Euro 300TD.

Happy Motoring, Mark

Targa-NF · #26 04-26-2011, 04:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Daman858

You would be surprised at the performance you can get by simply putting in some new/rebuilt injectors, a valve adjustment and an IP tweak.

Should I get new/ rebuild ones or rebuild them myself? I read up on it and sounds easy. I can get my hands on a injector pressure tester. Plus its only 45 bucks for the rebuild kit. One thread said to just clean them. What do you think?

Thanks. Jay

47dodge · #27 04-26-2011, 06:46 PM

cleaning will not do anything for wear. If you get the pressure tester, test them first and see what the pop pressure is and spray pattern. If that tests good then rebuilding may not gain much. If it does not test good then rebuilding will help. Of course if you just want to do it rebuild while they are out. I would still want to know the before condition just for referance. Your car should have an ADA, check it's function too. Fuel pressure also.

aaa · #28 04-26-2011, 07:07 PM

You should get new injector nozzles, and they cost more than $45. Labor cost is the smaller part of it.