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-   -   OM616 Turbo Owners Unite (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-performance-tuning/309579-om616-turbo-owners-unite.html)

OM616 12-09-2011 12:12 PM

240D (OM616) Turbo Owners Unite
 
I am wondering how many 240D (OM616) Turbo conversions are on the road currently. I thought it might be a good idea to collect all the good threads regarding adding a turbo to a 616, via links, to provide a one stop source for information from those who have done it.

On a side note; I also think a separate section for the 240D (OM616) would be good as there is always someone asking the same questions about performance questions, so if there was a section were only OM616 information was collected it may provide a good resource for 240D owners, and help reduce the barking from non 616 owners.

Any thoughts?

47dodge 12-09-2011 06:11 PM

I haven't done a turbo yet, but would be willing to post what I have done. What's the latest on your project?

Did a 1/4 mile time today, used a g-tech timer. Just over 21 seconds, 68 mph

OM616 12-10-2011 01:24 PM

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/298277-om616-190e-chassis.html

I have put about 800 miles on the car and I really am going to enjoy the combination. The turbo totally changes the character of the engine. The IP is still set the way I had it prior to the turbo and it is amazing what a little boost can do. I have not decided if I am going to tweak the Governor for the turbo, or just go to the 10mm pump. It’s really cold here now, and the thought of tinkering around on a car is not appealing.

The GT2056V turbo is perfect for the OM616. I actually am not using the actuator, and have the vanes set to one spot, boost comes on quick, smooth, and with stays with 15 to 20 lbs at the current fueling settings. I do not have the EMP gauge hooked up yet to know how efficient the set up really is, that is on the list of details.

The suspension bushings are shot and the car is scary at 70 mph so that is the next money pit I need to fill.

I will do the Prechambers when I do the pump and injectors, also have to change the cam to the up rated one, (mine has a couple of bad lobes), and replace the valve seals.

The starter is proving to be up to the challenge of winter, it spins the engine over just as fast as the stock one.

I was making a mount for the oil cooler and saw that the turbo feed line fitting is leaking slightly, so I will have to pull off the intake to get at it, the fitting combination was not perfect, so I will make one.

Still need to mount the intercooler radiator and pump, finish the exhaust, make gauge holders for the other gauges, and get the code to activate the radio.

I have a shop with a hoist that I can use, but I try to save my credits for times that I really need a hoist, so I will work on moding more 10mm elements and finishing the IP cal machine. (I have not forgotten our arrangement, so I will be taking care of that as I go).

_____________

I was thinking that there could be a 240D N/A section to condense the information for the N/A mods, and then a separate section for the 240D trubo, that way the info will apply to the title, so someone doing research on N/A can find what they want without it being broken up with turbo posts. Just a thought I had.

47dodge 12-10-2011 07:44 PM

Yes having a n/a section may well be a good idea.How does this get set up? I want to get my stuff in one spot to post it.


I have not found any new uprated cams, just regrinds or the non uprated from ********. I just do not like the idea of a reduced base circle cam. Seems it would wear more. Maybe my fears are unfounded.

josha37 12-11-2011 07:49 PM

wish i still had mine... dodge your looking at the cam base circle wrong, it doesnt take strength away it is still just as thick-or thicker than the main shaft. If i can help with the turbo stuff let me know, if your handy with a welder it's pretty easy to make a adapter that bolts up to the stock manifold and it's so worth it.

47dodge 12-11-2011 08:27 PM

Not concerned with the strength, but with a smaller radius it would seem to me to cause more wear? I think you may have a bit more hot rod experiance (gas engine)then I, have you used a reground cam and had it last just fine? I have not, although I must say that the engines I have built have been old ball engines. Like an international 304. But was able to get new cams, and not have to settle for a regrind.

Have all the turbo parts, k26 turbo, manifolds, oil lines, filter housing etc. I want to max out without turbo first to see what I can get out of it, then add the turbo. The turbo will go on a rebuilt engine, not the one in the car now. Have one on the stand, with new liners, pistons, and bottom end. Need to do the rest of it, as time and money allow. Have been gathering parts.

josha37 12-12-2011 08:25 PM

As long as the surface is reconditioned properly there is no increased concerns of wear. Good to be concerned about the parts you install, not so good to be paranoid. :) Maxing out pre turbo is.. well.. useless? You will always be limited by head flow and without positive manifold pressure im sure you have already ran up against that wall.

Ps i have / or have seen flattened cam lobes on new, aftermarket, and reground cams.

47dodge 12-13-2011 06:38 PM

maxing out pre turbo useless? Oh I don't quite think so. Look at my above quarter mile time, put the numbers in a estimated hp chart for quarter mile trap speed, and you get 90 hp based on 3700 pounds car weight. I weighed it at a junkyard. Granted it is an estimated hp, but thats nothing to sneeze at for a non turbo 616

I do have to agree that I am getting close to maxed out at this. Headers may help some, but no point in doing them if I put a turbo on. Could port the heads too. Has anyone flow tested these heads? The biggest surprise was how much I gained with reaming out the pre chambers. This has got to be of use when adding a turbo. And of course my ip adjustments are a good start for the turbo. May well need more after adding the turbo. The new intake manifold I made will not carry over to a turbo, so perhaps you could say that was wasted. For me a lot of this is worth it just to see what can be done. I like to try things out.

Thanks for the word on cams. good to hear that regrinds should be ok.

josha37 12-14-2011 12:51 AM

You mis understood what i said. I was mearly stating that you are already there. it just takes a little bit of pump adjustment to max them out na. If you are fighting for 1-2 ft lbs here or there it is wasted when you can go turbo and see 20-30-50 ft lb gains easily, and then you can make pump adjustments to go even further.

If you remember correctly i was getting a 0-60 time in the 10-11 second range turbo'd with a very worn 616 but i highly suggest people do not go that far.

Josha 616 boost - YouTube <-- pre cut dv's with fairly modest pump settings, it got bad in the end (no wastegate)
240d interstate 60 to 85 - YouTube
Josha 240 d - YouTube <-- i like this one, you can watch the temp gauge rise :P, it might have needed a larger radiator.

47dodge 12-14-2011 07:08 AM

Each step of the way I did my hill climb to see what differance it made. So from testing I have found that about half my gains are from ip adjustments, and the other half are from reamed pc's and the new manifold. I do not know what differance the exhaust made. The old one fell off on the highway, whole thing! So I had to replace it right away. So no testing old or new. It is larger pipe and the muffler from a 300.

Hmmm wonder how much more the 10 mm elements will do.... Maybe I can get it up to 100hp.... what most get with a turbo... um except you, you did get some real performance out of it.

I think for most people put the turbo on tweak the ip and have fun. But I can tell you that they will be leaving some on the table.

MTUpower 12-14-2011 08:09 PM

10 mm elements will be much to large for your engine- they are too large for the 617.

OM616 12-15-2011 01:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MTUpower (Post 2847232)
10 mm elements will be much to large for your engine- they are too large for the 617.

These are modified 10mm elements. I alter the end of delivery helix to reduce the max delivery, and to match the plunger rotation / delivery rate to maximize drivability and governor control.

The goal for the larger element is not increased delivery quantity, but rather, to reduce the total time it takes to deliver the fuel.

I have already done a set for a 617a, but the car ended up getting scraped with the custom elements still on the engine, (blew a hole in the auto trans, the car was sitting all winter, the scrap man comeith).

There has been a fair amount of conversation between several of us regarding this behind the seens.

josha37 12-15-2011 07:37 PM

are you ****ting me!? I would have killed for those! not for me... for a certain toyota truck i know :)

47dodge 12-16-2011 06:27 PM

the GT2056V turbo? how much better is this going to be then the kkk k26? I have the k26, of course just because I have it does not make it right, just was hoping to not spend even more on this. This would go on the new engine.

OM616 12-16-2011 08:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 47dodge (Post 2848509)
the GT2056V turbo? how much better is this going to be then the kkk k26? I have the k26, of course just because I have it does not make it right, just was hoping to not spend even more on this. This would go on the new engine.


I have read in other posts that the kkk26 will work on a 616 without a waste gate, and with your tuned up pump it should build boost reasonably soon. I like the adjustability of the VNT, as I can set where the boost starts to build.

Currently, I am not using the vacuum actuator, and adjusted the vanes so I start building boost quick and the max boost is 15-20 psi. Normal driving around town sees 5 lbs. On the highway cruising at 70 MPH the gauge reads about 3 - 4 lbs of boost, and goes up on demand of power.

I have not installed the EMP gauge yet, that will tell how efficient it is on the top end, the lower the EMP the better.

I have an extra GT2056V that I bought for a back up, or parts, it needs the ring that connects all the vanes to the control arm and some general TLC. I would trade it for the manifolds you sent me if you are interested.

I am betting that when I go to the 10mm Pump, I will have to regulate the boost, but, I am hoping that is not the case, this set up is very simple and drivable.


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