Right now,

I am reselling good, used German nozzles for either $5 or $10 each with my service. I am probably down to my last 50 or so. This is all I have after doing injectors for the last 10 years, which means checking out 1,000s of nozzles ...

OR --

Folks are buying German branded nozzles but are paying horrible shipping prices.

Just as a heads up -- there are some knock-off "Monarks" floating out there, which can be ID by the large "GERMANY" etched in the shoulder of the nozzle.

Where are these coming from? I'm in Austria, about a four hour drive from Germany.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

They are on German e B a y

I have been trying to find the part number for the 617.912 oil pump (which I believe is a little higher volume then the 616 pump), but all I keep finding are turbo pumps or pumps listed for 616/617 and don't show the actual part number.

Suquirter pads are done and wall thickness is comparable to the 617a block so I am not worried at all.

I modeled up the spacer plate and need to make those next, then I will put a piston and crank in it and make sure everything lines up properly.

This turned out to be more of a task then I expected. I had to change my tooling strategy when I did #2 because the thrust bearing features made the main casting much bigger and caused problems with my approach. I would not be surprised if a "regular" machine shop would want to take this on because of the custom tooling and risks involved. A performance engine shop would be best because they understand what is critical and can make decisions with some confidence as they go.

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So you’re saying a steady hand and a cordless drill won’t cut-it. No pun intended

Incredible work! Excited to see the pistons and crank installed.

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1981 240D 4sp manual. Ivory White.

Well... all I have to say about that is.... You gotta want it! lol

In all seriousness... Even if you went with a banjo type that only needed a flat spotted in the correct place and then a hole drilled down into the oil gallery you would need a very stout drill press at the very least. To put the 617a squirters in a 616 there is a lot of material that has to be removed and positional accuracy of the holes maintained.

What you might do is, if you have a shop that you think could do it, show then the pictures and see if they would be interested in taking it on. It is the undercutting (under the main castings) that is the real pain. I would expect a bill around $400 to $600 to do it unless you can find an old timer who is retired and likes to putter around. There is a reason that not many have done this lol..

The cost and pain of shipping a block, setting it up, machining it, cleaning it up, and shipping it back would be cost prohibitive as well. Once I know the squirter tips fit into the pistons properly and the crank and rod clears the squirter I will post a print of where the holes are located and the cut out relative to the center of the cylinder.

And here is something to think about as well... Until the oil pump is upgraded, this is a academic exercise. I noticed a pressure drop with my 616 just by adding a turbo... Adding 4 squirters that fed off of the same gallery that feeds the mains will be a problem unless more volume is added to the pump.

All I can seem to find are 616 oil pump part numbers and I believe that the 617.912 pump is slightly larger in volume then the 616 and I would like to start with the biggest one. A concern of mine is to make sure that the bypass valve can handle the extra volume of a modified pump.

looks like it should.

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I just found a 617.912 oil pump on ebay and bought it. Upgrading it to increase oil volume is the next challenge.

I took apart the 617.912 oil pump and compared the gears to the turbo pump gears.

The .912 gears are .983 inches tall and the turbo gears are 1.180 inches tall.

Something else I realized is the turbo pump spins faster then the NA pump. There are 20 teeth on the crank sprocket and the turbo pump sprocket has 27 teeth, where as the NA pump is driven off of the IP drive which has 40 teeth and the gear ratio from the IP drive shaft to the pump shaft is slightly under driven as well.


So even if I put the turbo pump gears in the NA motor, it still will not put out as much oil as the turbo because it is under driven more then the turbo pump.

Another thing I realized and had not thought of before is because the NA pump is driven off of the IP drive shaft, the timing advance mechanism sees the oil pump drive load as well as the IP, which means in order to advance the timing, the advance mechanism has to overcome the additional load of the oil pump, so increasing the oil pump load will affect Injection timing advancement.

I am wondering if because of that if the weights in the NA advance unit are heaver or if the springs are lighter?

Supplying enough oil at idle when hot is a concern now.

I was contemplation on the best way to extend the drive gear of the 617.912 oil pump and I noticed that it looked like the pump gears were pressed onto the shafts, and there indeed are.

So I can press off the shorter NA gear from the pump drive shaft and press on the turbo pump gear. Then I just have to make a spacer plate to fill the gap between the upper and lower pump bodies.

I also went and double checked the oil pump drive ratio of the 616 and it is indeed 1:1 .

So the turbo oil pump gears are 20% taller (assuming they put out 20% more oil per rev then the NA pump gears) and is under driven 35%

By putting the turbo pump gears in the NA pump, and the NA pump is under driven 50%, that would mean that the hybrid oil pump in a 616 engine would but out 15% less volume per revolution of the crank.

With one cylinder worth of bead less, I am feeling better about the combination at idle. The only way to know is to get it running on the dyno and see how it does.

I am pretty sure there is enough head room between the oil pan and the pickup for it to be lowered down .200 inches, But that need to be confirmed yet.

There is a rubber "grommet" at the very bottom of the pump's pick-up. There are four rubber feet on the grommet. I am pretty sure you could grind them down to fit. However, if those feet are removed, the grommet would need to be modified to allow flow, other wise the grommet would act as a seal.

of course I tossed the oil pan that came with this block lol and the turbo pan wont fit on the 616 but i am assuming that the distance from the bottom of the block to the gasket of the oil pan is the same.

I put the turbo gears in the NA oil pump, put the housing together and installed it in the block. Then i shimmed the oil pan to match the turbo oil pan thickness and the rubber is barley off of the pan bottom, maybe an 1/8 of an inch ish.

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The four legs from the grommet barley touch the oil pan from what I can tell. In between the legs is plenty of rubber which could be removed to make a greater area for pick up although not sure it’s needed.