I was reading on the 2005 and up mecedes engine gas and diesel,They can't run the good oils like the 617.95X or like my gas engine.I run diesel oils in both as I want the protection that comes with 15w40 rotella.
Newer engine must have finer tolerances as nothing is over 30 weight.To their diesel have particulate filters whick must clog with the calcium,phospros,and sulpher. in the good oils.
I wonder will these engine hold up on mileage?
Bluetec and CDI's lets see how many miles you get.

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

The new oils are really good, but I think most recommended for MB are 0W40 so still that 40 weight. MB's spec is really quite strict, it's a better oil than Rotella...

Plenty of new diesel MB running in Sprinters with crazy mileages and I never have heard anything at all out of them, and that is with them asking for oil change at 15 000 or 20 000 miles or whatever.

Don't forget how much faster a 0W oil gets to the engine compared with a 15, I put 0W30 "German" Castrol in my car, and compared with the unknown 10W30 or so that was in there, the cold startup was amazingly faster. At -20 F ambient the car started as if it was 60 F outside. You're saving all that startup wear.

Synthetic anything is better than Rotella on every level.

I'm running Amsoil in my 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee diesel using the MB specs in the owners manual.

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1960 190D (college car), gone
1995 E300D, 325 k
2019 LEXUS UX 250h (spouse mobile)
2003 Nissan Frontier Crew Cab
2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland 3.0L MB diesel, 185K
1978 GMC Classic Motor Home

I have my doubts about the newer engines lastly and having a good reputation. The V6 is not a smooth motor and has post injection cycles that wash down cylinder walls, dilute oil, lots of blowby even with new engines. All for emissions...the particulate filters need raw fuel to heat up and burn off the accumulated soot, and Mercedes does it with the main fuel injectors not something downstream of the engine. Of course fleet vehicles will be okay for alittle while as the rack up the miles fast, but personal ones will likely die young from uniformed ownership and poor maintenace.
It is reported the newer MB specs 229.51 are NOT great oil for long intervals, it is missing most of the additives that other diesel oils have in the name of the particulate filter lasting. Yet somehow Mercedes allows 10k mile oil change intervals (even longer on some). Forget about fixing one the current V6 diesels, no factory supported parts for engine internals! Some valve train, some other things but no big rebuilds. Maybe aftermarket will kick in, but then there is always a quality issue. Price a turbo also, it will get your heart rate going!
Getting rid of the DPF and the post injection cycle seem to be the keys to long engine life, then oil choices are wide open also.
I think in 20 years these will be long forgotten engines, killed away by emission regulations and high maintenace costs. I own one too, but am taking steps to ensure it will remain a good engine for some time which few will bother with.

Heard all this when i bought my 606.962 also. Like the venerable 606, this story can not be told in the present.

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Terry Allison
N. Calif. & Boca Chica, Panama

09' E320 Bluetec 77k (USA)
09' Hyundai Santa Fe Diesel 48k (S.A.)

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Jim

I just bought a used 06 E320 CDI. I'll have to get a Mobil 1 weight recommendation for it too.

Mobil 1 truck and turbo diesel or whatever it is called is the one to use in the CDI.

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Jim

Factory spec is anything with the 229.5 rating with fleece filters, I don't think the Mobil 1 turbodiesel 5-40W carries the official MB rating but I'd guess it would work fine.

Mobil 1 0W-40 european flavor oil carries the 229.5 spec and is widely available.

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

Mobil 1, ESP Formula M for Bluetec. This one has the MB spec listed on the back.

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Jim

Tim,

I see you now drive a CDI as well. Which Mobil 1 are you running in it?


The several year old partial jug of Mobil 1 Truck Turbodiesel synthetic I have @ home, is IIRC: 0W-50......and you are correct, there is/are no endorsements by MB on the back label. -But the Mobil 1 jug is 3+ years old now.

I'm headed to Walmart this afternoon, so I'll report back on the oil weights of Mobil 1 Turbodiesel truck full synthetic they now have for sale.

Joe

I've been using mobile 1 0-40w European car formula, carries the 229.5 spec.

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

IIRC that's the 229.51 spec which is for the adblue cars that use cats which burn off particulate emissions. I think it's ok for the earlier CDI's as well.

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98 Dodge-Cummins pickup (123k)
13 GLK250 (135k)
06 E320CDI (323K)
16 C300 (62K)
82 300GD Gelaendewagen (54K)

When searching out motor oil use the spec that is for your car, don't go with the newer spec the low SAPS oils don't have the samd additive package as the older version and may not be as good for the engine (I have read some research on sprinter forums backed by oil analysis). 229.51 is for the latest engines with particulate filters and lacks certain elements due to the filters, it clogs them. So they took away certain things in the oil...if you can run 229.5 run that spec, it far easier to find and seems to be a better oil.
Some other reasearch has shown certain oils are the same in the container but not labeled as such, due to having to pay Mercedes to list the spec on each label. I would imagine most modern "truck" oils are fine like Mobil 1 turbo diesel, Shell Rotella T5\6, Valvoline Extreme Blue etc, but again you should spend a bit of time researching which ones have the right package for your engine and drain interval as some of the truck oils are stripped down for DPF also.

My view point on the V6 OM642 is nobody will keep them long, they are way way too expensive to keep going, the parts around the engine out value the price of a used vehicle, add up injectors, pump, glow plugs, mass air flow sensor, all the plastic parts that will be heat cycled and brittle/break in 7-10 years, there is $10k + in parts, and that is just on the surface of the engine! Factor in leaking oil coolers with 10-12 hours of labour, worn turbo or seized VNT parts, egr valves, exhaust gas temp sensors etc another $10k and we haven't even opened the engine yet!!!
I only hope someone comes up with a stand alone system to control the engine in the future so it can be run without all the "fluff"...