Hello, im thinking about ajusting the IP on my w123, but i cant find anything about the powergain with stock pump and stock turbo?

Is it worth it?
How much power will i gain?
How much faster will it be? (i know it is 15 sec to 100kmh stock, so i know it's not going to be a race car, but maybe it will be a little faster)

thanks for any reply, and sorry for my bad english

Jump over to s u p er t u r b o d i e s e l d o t c o m

I know, made an account 3 days ago, and it's not accepted yet....
So i thought i could ask here since there is a lot of people aroud here with good Knowledge too.

stay here....

assuming your IP is o.k. like all the other things on your engine there is not much to gain with "adjustment".
Depending where the car comes from the IP might be adjusted lean.
This was the case with my SD California.
In that case you can adjust max. delivery until it starts to smoke black when accelerating hard.

Bigger step is larger elements, either on your MW pump or swap to M pump.

Cheers,

Tom

With proper tweaks and instumentation the record is ~140hp and 190ft-lbs of torque (ish)

-Proper valve lash
-Proper cam timing (chain stretch)
-Proper injector pop pressure and spray pattern
-Advance IP drip timing to 26*-28* depending on when the engine starts to knock
-Proper length fuel pressure return spring
-Make sure the ALDA works properly
-Install EGT gauge pre-turbo
-Install boost gauge
-Ream prechamber holes (this one is still controversial)

Messing with the pump's internal settings and the turbo wastegate can get you the extra oomph, but your limit is around 1100*F exhaust pre turbo, and 16ish psi on a stock Garrett turbo (lower on the KKK turbo I believe)

To go faster, make sure the transmission is shifting at the right points-early shifts make a 300D sloooooow


With a ported head, larger valves, custom manifolds, a bigger turbo, and a modified IP($1200+) the sky is the limit. I don't know the actual max on stock rods but it's often estimated at around 300hp(with the heavy modifications)

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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

So i will gain max 15hp from adjusting the stock pump until i get black smoke at full load then?
Then i can just save some money and get me a dieselmeken pump and a turbo ++ that will give me reliable 200hp when i'm allready thinking about geting a little more out of my merc.
It was not what i had planed, but 15 is a bit to low for it to be noticeably quicker in the daily trafic.

I'm going to assume that your 617 is like most of the ones out there, and is really only putting out ~90hp. If you have over 100k and never rebuilt the injectors, or checked the chain stretch, or timed the engine you're way below the stock ratings.

Spraying methanol can net you another 20hp or so.

Granted, these are just the numbers that people who have run dynos reported back. Some mods are said to be felt but don't have data, and since I haven't made the mods myself I can't comment on exactly how much power they make

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

My engine is in pretty good condition, it has just a bit over 200000km on it, and has a full service history, so i dont think it has under 100hk

spray propane for up to 100 extra hp

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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran

How is this done? The STD adjustment thread is mum. Max Delivery the same thing as the rack limiter?

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1985 MBZ 300D (DD, 240k, unmuffled hellion!)
1982 MBZ 300D (372k, retired for parts)
1981 MBZ 300D (575k, parts pig)

Yes. Don't remove the limiter, just adjust it

__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment

Although not directly on the topic of your thread, the old skool hot rodders' ways are ultimately the best:

1. Reduced weight;
2. Reduced parasitic drag on the engine;
3. Reduced drag;
4. Increased air;
5. Increased fuel;
6. Gearing;
7. Making sure everything else runs "correctly"


So, as other folks have said in one way or another on the various forums, reduce the curb weight to under 3,000 pounds if you can -- good luck. Carbon Fiber is very sexy but very time consuming as well. Figure out ways to reduce the drag on the engine, e.g., getting rid of this or that pump; Lower the car for example or whatever to reduce drag; Increase the air or at least the quality of air, e.g., intercooler and removal of whatever restrictions you can. The Turbo ... ah, the turbo. Alot of time has been devoted to this, and I still have not found one drop in replacement which is the silver bullet cure to this issue; more fuel, e.g., mod'd IP, larger flow nozzles; higher geared rear end for off the line peppiness. After being a forum member on STD, there's no one answer which fits all solutions. Look at the C-111 for the ultimate performance in a OM617.952A engine. It still has world records standing I beleive.