Yes and no, you will get boost but the transmission stall will limit rpms giving you a skewed reading.

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1991 300d 2.5 Turbo OM602

Exactly, you have to be moving some CFM's with RPM's...

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-Evan


Benz Fleet:
1968 UNIMOG 404.114
1998 E300
2008 E63


Non-Benz Fleet:
1992 Aerostar
1993 MR2
2000 F250

Alright thanks.

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Lotus 7 replica-20valve 4AGE
06' 500R Ninja Naked/Café/Custom
86' 300 SDL (Donor)
98' Discovery 50th anniversary (Recipient of transplant)

After reviewing the different threads about the turbo, waste gate, Alda, EGR, and emission controls, I did the following:
1. Disconnect EGR valve;
2. Remove ALDA,
3. Remove all pneumatic controls to air cleaner and force the door in the lower air cleaner housing open.
4. I adjusted the waste gate door closed. The rod is difficult to get to and adjust, especially if it rusted.
5. Drilled out the inside of the catalytic converter because it was clogged with carbon.

I have had the turbo/exhaust manifold off 2 or 3 times before I got it right. I was surprised to see no smoke when flooring it. When all the turbo safeguards are removed, your foot becomes the over-boost protector. It's pretty fast now.
These modifications are all controversial. It took some reading/thinking before I moved over to the dark side.

How much boost does it make with the wastegate jammed shut? Or did you simply adjust the preload?

-J

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1991 350SDL. 230,000 miles (new motor @ 150,000). Blown head gasket

Tesla Model 3. 205,000 miles. Been to 48 states!
Past: A fleet of VW TDIs.... including a V10,a Dieselgate Passat, and 2 ECOdiesels.
2014 Cadillac ELR
2013 Fiat 500E.

I never measured the boost. I just did road tests. The vacuum actuator connected to the adjustable arm has no vacuum now. I could never get the actuator to move when testing with the Mighty Vac. When I adjusted the waste gate to be open, there was less power, no boost. The car ran like a non-turbo. So I readjusted it closed. I believe it has boost now because there is more power than before, but there is no boost gauge to check.