IP Adjustment

[WMO Madness]

I read awhile back and someone posted a photo of an IP identifying the different function and location. What kind of adjustment one can make in the IP for additional performance: Main gov. spring or the torque control..

[Simpler=Better]

Buy an EGT gauge (auber instruments is a cheap source) and come to teh dark side:
IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps

[RavenTBK]

I hate that thread over on superturbo. It describes a process for adjusting the M pump, but only shows a partially labelled picture and description for the MW.

Wish more folks would tinker with the MW and post up howto's like has been done with the M.

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by RavenTBK

I hate that thread over on superturbo. It describes a process for adjusting the M pump, but only shows a partially labelled picture and description for the MW.

Wish more folks would tinker with the MW and post up howto's like has been done with the M.

Did you read the whole thread or just the first post?

[OM616]

Originally Posted by RavenTBK

Wish more folks would tinker with the MW and post up howto's like has been done with the M.

LOL.....

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by OM616

LOL.....

Says the resident MW guru.

FYI...search for OM616's threads and you will find everything you need. Just takes a bit of reading to wrap your head around the pump's mechanical brain.

[WMO Madness]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Buy an EGT gauge (auber instruments is a cheap source) and come to teh dark side:
IP Full Load Adjustment Procedure for the MW and M pumps

Thank you... thank you... I finally got the trans linkages adjusted to shift smooth and accel the right time. MPG went up, after briefly reading that post. I am ready to dive in. On with the MADNESS.

[winmutt]

The back end of the pump isnt nearly exciting as the top end... There are modest gains at the back. Turning the delivery valve holds is where the real money is at, but will make care idle like crap.

[kestreltom]

Originally Posted by winmutt

The back end of the pump isnt nearly exciting as the top end... There are modest gains at the back. Turning the delivery valve holds is where the real money is at, but will make care idle like crap.

I humbly beg to differ. I have adjusted my MW pump according to the excellent documents submitted by our fellow poster OM616, and I am fueling more than my highly modded turbo can handle already. I have also tried adjusting the DV holders on top of the IP - using the millivolt method, but I don't think this is the best way to improve power.

Check out my thread here, and look at post #50:
Question for Doktor Bert

[OM616]

Originally Posted by kestreltom

I humbly beg to differ. I have adjusted my MW pump according to the excellent documents submitted by our fellow poster OM616, and I am fueling more than my highly modded turbo can handle already. I have also tried adjusting the DV holders on top of the IP - using the millivolt method, but I don't think this is the best way to improve power.

I am glad to hear that the people are benefiting from the Doc.

[winmutt]

Originally Posted by kestreltom

I humbly beg to differ. I have adjusted my MW pump according to the excellent documents submitted by our fellow poster OM616, and I am fueling more than my highly modded turbo can handle already. I have also tried adjusting the DV holders on top of the IP - using the millivolt method, but I don't think this is the best way to improve power.

Check out my thread here, and look at post #50:
Question for Doktor Bert

I guess everyone has their own experience. mV method is fraught with issues as GP is a poor thermocouple. Unless of cours you are using a REAL thermocouple and sticking it in the GP hole.

[Simpler=Better]

Originally Posted by winmutt

I guess everyone has their own experience. mV method is fraught with issues as GP is a poor thermocouple. Unless of cours you are using a REAL thermocouple and sticking it in the GP hole.

Supposedly a friend of a friend makes thermocouples for custom lab applications. Would you basically make a dummy GP with a thermocouple at the end? We might be able to make this happen.

[winmutt]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Supposedly a friend of a friend makes thermocouples for custom lab applications. Would you basically make a dummy GP with a thermocouple at the end? We might be able to make this happen.

That would be pretty awesome I always thought the MV method had some real cool applications but was too inaccurate. Measuring cyl temp at idle and WOT would just be way cool.

[kestreltom]

Originally Posted by OM616

I am glad to hear that the people are benefiting from the Doc.

OM616 - you are one of the MBZ gurus in my estimation. Adjusting the MW governor was not something I was willing to do until I saw your careful documentation - Thank you!!

Also, as you mentioned, by reaming the prechamber holes I was able to advance the IP timing to the point where I ran out of adjustment room on the IP mount. Low end torque is much improved, and cold starting is unaffected.

Now I am thinking about lowering the injector pop pressures 2-300 psi to facilitate getting a bigger shot of fuel into the engine sooner. I wonder if anyone has ever tested this idea...

[kestreltom]

Originally Posted by winmutt

That would be pretty awesome I always thought the MV method had some real cool applications but was too inaccurate. Measuring cyl temp at idle and WOT would just be way cool.

That's the right idea!

It struck me that if you could compare all the cylinder mV readings quickly while driving under different conditions, then that would be useful!
You can utilize the thermocouple inputs on a cheap Harbor Freight multimeter to get a very responsive 3 figure reading from the glowplugs for comparing to the other cylinders (it doesn't matter whether it is a true reading here...) Here is what I was planning on doing, but someone else could beat me to it:

I bought a cheap HF multimeter with a thermocouple input, a spare glowplug multi pin socket off the drivers side fender mount at U-Pull, and a 5-way rotary switch that I got from the local surplus store.
I planned to wire the glowplug socket via a multi-lead cable to the rotary switch - with labelled detents according to which cyl is being measured, then wire the center tap of the rotary switch to the thermocouple input on the HF meter.

This way you can start your car normally, and warm it up - then while it is running, unplug the glowplug multi connector from the controller, and plug it into your modified harness which is routed into the passenger's compartment where you have an assistant with the meter and the rotary switch. Then go drive the car and compare the cylinder readings under different loads (with a steady foot on the throttle)

I know what you are going to say - too much work!!