Parts Catalog Accessories Catalog How To Articles Tech Forums
Call Pelican Parts at 888-280-7799
Shopping Cart Cart | Project List | Order Status | Help




Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion > Diesel Performance Tuning

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 12-27-2013, 10:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild

Well, I can now say I understand why there are only a handful of people who dive deep down into the depths of these older Mercedes engines. I suppose its not worth spending thousands of dollars on a rebuild to most people when you can go buy a decent running engine for a couple hundred dollars. I suppose its most interesting to everyone to see the pictures and hear the struggles and successes of other peoples journeys. So here is a thread that is going to follow this build from the start to the beautiful moment where the key turns and the engine is running again. This is the exact opposite of a quick and dirty rebuild where it takes one weekend and $100 in used parts. Be warned, this will be EXTREMELY Picture heavy. but that is what everyone wants isn't it? Hopefully this can end up being a very helpful and informative thread to all the wrench-ers out there! I also hope that this isn't the last of my threads, and by the time im done with this car I will have yielded many helpful and informative threads on all the cars systems. So.... Here we go.

Obviously, the first step was to remove the engine. An engine puller is 100% absolutely necessary, with a leveler being extremely helpful to lean it back so you can get the tranny leaned back. This step is fairly simple and doesn't have too many tricks... The oil pressure gauge is always a tricky line to get off... and don't forget the ground cables. Other than that though, label everything and that's the easy part. I'm sure most people have the issue of their engines leaking EVERYWHERE, and honestly, that was one of the main reasons for starting this project.... So once the source of the leak was removed to be fixed, it was necessary to clean up all its mess... It took about 2 days, and the pictures don't really even do it justice, (see attachment. Sorry no before picture, switched cameras 3 times throughout this whole project) but after many bottles of different cleaners and rolls of paper towels the engine bay was a beauty. Simple Green seems to be a praised product by many of the people on this forum, but when it came down to it, it didn't really cut it. I made a secret potion that was a mixture of simple green, and like 3 different cleaners. It worked good for the light stuff, but anywhere that was flat there was a very thick layer of dirt oil mixture.. Oddly enough, foam oven cleaner did a great job. sprayed it on thick, let sit overnight, and it literally wiped off the next day.
Next was the disassembly of the grotesque engine... I will write that up soon. There isn't very many pictures from the beginning of the project, but gets heavier as time goes on. Please leave your comments and questions below!
Attached Thumbnails
Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-enginebay.jpg  

Last edited by Mersadie; 01-02-2014 at 09:55 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 01-01-2014, 10:02 AM
oldsinner111's Avatar
love all animals
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: bristol,tn
Posts: 5,444
thats what i use oven cleaner to strip grease and paint so I just have to repaint
__________________
usaf vet,dumb ass,repukes love the wealthy,dems use to protect working citizens.Both sides are parasites
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 01-01-2014, 10:09 AM
mach4's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: San Diego County, CA
Posts: 2,736
Looking forward to future episodes documenting the process.
__________________
Current Stable
  • 380SL (diesel)
  • Corvette C5
  • Manx
  • Baja Bug
  • F350 Powerstroke
  • Auburn Boattail Speedster replica
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 01-02-2014, 01:31 AM
Colorado220's Avatar
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: COLORADO
Posts: 631
Looking forward to the project!
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 01-02-2014, 10:53 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
Engine Dissasembly

Ok, so I uploaded to the Engine Bay picture on the last post. It didn't upload last time. Sorry there was no "before" pic.... but im sure everyone has seen a disgusting greasy and grimy engine bay. You should be able to get an idea of just how bad it was with this picture of the engine before cleaning... it was horrid. I've decided to not paint the engine bay because I don't want to do a crappy job with a color that doesn't even match.... I plan to get a paint job within the next year hopefully, so that can be done then.

So, there are no pictures of the engine fully assembled, but once again, if you're reading this thread you've probably seen an om617 with all the pumps on etc. The engine is overall extremely easy to disassemble. There are just a few quirks that you have to be aware about before you begin so that you don't end up breaking things.... And yes, I might be speaking from experience. It is 100% MANDATORY to label every part that you take off. have a big fat box of ziplocs and a sharpie and you will be so happy when it comes time to assemble. I suggest putting a piece of masking tape on the bag and writing on that because now that i am back to the assembly point i am seeing that some of the writing has rubbed off and that could become disastrous. After all the pumps and brackets are removed (see first photos) you hit your first difficult thing. All the timing chain rails, which are usually in major need to be replaced, are attached by pins that are threaded on the inside. They have to be removed via slide hammer. It can be tricky but if you get the right bolt/washer/socket(or tube) combo it should be fairly effortless. Make sure the bolt has plenty of threads in the pin so you don't just shear the first few threads off... A tap and die set is very helpful throughout this whole build but especially here if they are really caked. Next is the harmonic balancer. I pulled this with a generic pulley/ balancer puller which worked fine, except for the fact i used the balancer bolt and washer to rest the tip of the puller on so it didn't mess up the threads in the crank. Well, to my surprise, the balancer keys are round (see picture). so when i started cranking down and pulling with the puller and that bolt, it sheared the keys .... Don't make that mistake. watch what you use to protect the threads... make sure it doesn't cover the keys. When removing the head it is beyond necessary to make sure you get the proper triple square twelve point bit for the head bolts. You will strip them if you try to use anything else. I drew out the diagram of the head and head bolts (see pic) so I could place them in it. This is necessary if you plan to reuse head bolts, but nothing more than storage if you're buying new ones.

I'm sure that some veterans out there know all of this stuff, but i really hope my experiences can help some of you guys out there so you don't go through the same hassle as me WHEN you tackle your projects

As you can see this engine was horrific as far as dirtiness goes. I think that the majority of the leaks came from the turbo drain tube, the oil cooler lines, and many valve jobs without replacement of the valve cover gasket... I dread the day when she starts leaking oil again.....
Attached Thumbnails
Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0501.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0502.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-om617_harmonic-balancer-graphic_6170300530_qwxpozl.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0499.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 01-14-2014, 02:42 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Middle TN
Posts: 3,612
There was a post on "leak ferr engine" one of the regulars posted. Basically use good quality gaskets and JUDICIOUS amounts of black RTV or RightStuff. I had the passenger side parts off to the head. It's clean so far.
__________________
85SD 240K & stopped counting. 84SD 180,000. Thinking of painting both.
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-17-2014, 01:12 AM
sag sag is offline
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 16
any up dates?
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-18-2014, 01:06 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Momoclo View Post
The ONLY place on the engine where RTV should be used is the upper oil pan surface (there is no gasket).

If you absolutely insist on using a sealant, use High Tack. No matter how little RTV you use, it will squish out and contaminate the engine internals. Using a "JUDICIOUS" quantity is guaranteed to cause internal problems/damage, primarily plugging the oil pickup screen. Bits that get past the screen can also wedge in the relief valve and cause low oil pressure issues.
I have to second this. We bought gasket kits for the whole engine and replaced every single gasket and used RTV on the upper oil pan.

I am sorry it has been so long since the last update. I had an accident about a month ago, involving this engine. We were attempting to crimp the new masterlink on the timing chain with a tool that we found at harbor freight that we thought might suffice. The tool was a harbor freight chain breaker. (see picture 3) It worked fantastic on the first one. I walked over to watch the second one and the rod on the end(very high carbon cheap steel) shattered. I had just come in the garage and didn't yet have my safety glasses on. So of course out of everywhere it could have gone a 4mm piece entered my left eye. We rushed to the emergency room and thought that the black spot in my iris (see picture 2) was the steel and they would be able to remove it. We later found out that the black spot was just a hole where the steel passed through my iris, shattered my lens, passed through all of the viscerous gell, and punctured my macula, which is the center of your retina, the part that you read with. So I was then rushed to Emory for intensive surgery. I no longer have a lens. Its been an intense recovery process and it has left me partially blind in my left eye(still healing, God is good).

ANYWAY! The moral of the story is wear saftey glasses always and dont buy harbor freight for anything important!!!!

There is one thing good to come out of this, and that is it made me so upset that I was so close to finishing that engine and it had defeated me so I got my dad and my grandfather and within 4 days from when I was actually able to go outside, we had the engine in the car running So that made me happy, and weve actually been driving it and working some kinks out!

Im sure you guys would love to just see the finished project, but I'll just pick up where I left off

I left off at Engine Dissasembly.... SO the next would be a stupid amount of cleaning. If you have a car that is so greasy you have to literally SCRUB every part down 20 times before its some what clean, it is just worth taking them to a machine shop and letting them jet wash it for you. Its such a time consuming, grueling task that its just worth spending a couple extra bucks to let them do it. Plus They are gonna get it cleaner than anyone ever could by hand. (Cant wait to show you the pistons )

After cleaning, I would say the next step is Ordering Parts and Machine Shop. LISTEN TO THIS NEXT STATEMENT. Find someone who knows what they're doing and is confident. The grey-er his hair the better. We took the head and the block to a guy that all he did was v8's. We decided to leave it there because it was close. Like 3 minutes close. He was the nicest guy in the world, but was scared of this engine. The head and engine sat there for 2 months (maybe 3 ) and all that happened was he honed the cylinders and rubbed down the head with high grit sandpaper. WASTE OF SO MUCH TIME. We finally broke down and drove an hour to this machine shop in acworth (Goza Machine for anyone in north GA area) and we knew he was good. He could hardly hear us, waddled around, and had all grey hair! He had a huge, organized shop, he had driven a diesel mercedes before, and worked on domestic and foreign. Now, you have to take your stuff to the machine shop before you order parts so they can measure everything out. So within a couple days we were ordering cylinder sleeves, all new exhaust valves, valve stem seals for him to replace. We also brought him all the pistons and he told us they were all worn equally. Very little though. which is incredible because they had 300,00 miles on them. and FYI you cant get a new set of pistons for under $1500 So he decked the block, the head, put the new sleeves in, bored them to the pistons, pressure tested head and replaced exhaust valves, and replaced all stem seals. He also washed everything, including pistons. It all looked brand new.... I think that that set us back $1800....?
After that the rest of the parts were ordered. We love pelican parts. Probably spent $2500- $3k there now. Just on the engine. I dont even feel like listing out everything weve bought, would take days. Lets just say everything that could possibly wear and more... besides pistons.

When it comes to assembling the engine, its pretty easy... Its amazing how everything just wants to go back together. Just make sure you have a nice torque wrench! Im also not gonna repeat myself and say stuff that is easily found on these forums or in the haynes manual. (get one).

I will say, dont try to pull off the power steering pulley unless you have the mercedes puller. bad idea. Also, unlike gasket sealerm you can never go wrong with judicous amounts of assembly lube. everywhere. bearings, cylinders, everything.
When painting the block and head, and everything else for that matter, spend your time in masking and prep and use high heat engine paint. its worth it. Use naptha to remove all traces of grease or oil, and spray. I did 3 coats and its beautiful.

MORE TO COME.
Attached Thumbnails
Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_1371.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_1380.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-image_16332.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0910.jpg  
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-18-2014, 01:25 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
Pictures

These wouldnt go on the last one...
#4 - new sleeves
#5 - new valves
Attached Thumbnails
Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_1204.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0323.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0922.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0919.jpg   Slow and Clean OM617 Turbo Complete Rebuild-img_0895.jpg  

Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-18-2014, 01:28 PM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
Devestation

Crap. I just spent like an hour typing a post and it didnt post and got deleted. Ill have to wait till tonight to type it up again... sorry
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-20-2014, 09:26 AM
Simpler=Better's Avatar
Ham Shanker
 
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Baltimore, MD
Posts: 2,532
Ouch! Sorry to hear about the eye, but I'm glad you didn't lose it completely.

Those pistons are gorgeous!

If you're paranoid about timeouts on the server, typing it up in notepad & pasting over is sometimes worth the work...but you already found that out

Make sure your insurance company sees those receipts and marks down the full value. If you get hit you don't want to lose the $$ you've poured into her.
__________________
$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges
$110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges
No merc at the moment
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 03-21-2014, 10:22 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
More

Like I said, dont try to pull off the Power Steering Pulley without the special puller.....
https://www.flickr.com/photos/113280060@N03/13308885764/lightbox/
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 03-21-2014, 10:53 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: Atlanta, Georgia
Posts: 25
TURBO REBUILD

Ok, if you guys are driving around with a motor that has 250,000 miles on it and the turbo has never been rebuilt.... You're missing out.... So much end play develops, the fins on the turbine and compressor wear down or chip, bearings get harder to turn on. And worst of all.... THEY START LEAKING AND PUMPING OIL INTO TO THE INTAKE!!!!! So if youre on a budget, you can just purchase a bearing and seal kit for pretty cheap! And its fairly easy if you have patience and totally worth it. I went the extra mile since i was everywhere else.. and bought a new turbine and shaft and compressor wheel also. I actually HAD to do this because i made a big booboo.... I tried to hit the turbine out of the housing while the TURBINE housing was still on.

( https://www.flickr.com/photos/113280060@N03/13308944023/ )

(The big piece that bolts to the exhaust manifold). The turbine housing requires an incredible amount of heat to break free from the center section, but with heat, it is easy.
( https://www.flickr.com/photos/113280060@N03/13308940703/lightbox/ )

once the housings are apart its smooth sailing. Make sure you verify whether you have a Garrett or a KKK turbo.
Now, The Turbo spools up at exactly 1800 rpm's and makes you feel like youre taking off (with the combined sound of the turbo that sounds like a jet). I have a K&N style filter on now (Dont worry! Ive decided to go back to stock!!) but it is so much louder. You cant hear anything but the turbo. It made a large power improvement. If you make sure its working correctly in tandem with the alda, i guarantee it will make an improvement in your car.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/113280060@N03/with/13308911603/
(look at the turbo photos)
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 09-14-2014, 11:34 AM
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 68
this is the best thread Ive read in a long time! How did it all work out? Is it still running strong?
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 09-14-2014, 12:46 PM
oldsinner111's Avatar
love all animals
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: bristol,tn
Posts: 5,444
I have 350,000 miles,my turbo is fine.
__________________
usaf vet,dumb ass,repukes love the wealthy,dems use to protect working citizens.Both sides are parasites
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On




All times are GMT -4. The time now is 06:55 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2018 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website -    DMCA Registered Agent Contact Page