Best turbo for 617 in an SD

[81300sd]

Looking to do a turbo upgrade. I see some of you guys running holset, VGT, VNT, various models. So what is the general opinion on what would be optimal.

Not worried about bolt on or easiest install. I work at a metal fab shop so I can pretty much fab anything I need to do it right.

[Simpler=Better]

Definitely go VNT. The GT2256V (smaller end, daily driver type)can be had on ebay for around $100 (sold as a core) It's from a Jeep Liberty CRD.

When you go regulate it, using two actuators seems to be the best way to go(Look at other's installs)

Also, a W115 intake(With the longer runners) will be easier to hook up to your turbo.

When fabricating an oil delivery line/drain line for the turbo the easiest(Though a bit pricey) way is to either get stainless flex lines, or to drop the car off at a good independent custom radiator/hose/brake shop. My local guys quoted around $60 to make a hard delivery line(Provided I could drop the car off)

Good luck!

[mash]

I have my 87 300TD/84 300TD running at 22/25 psi max boost on freewway. These turbos can develop boost into the 35-40 psi range with the stock injectors/inj. pump. The big problem is the word has gotten out about the ALDA(richness adjuster) and how to richen it creating more power, smoke and combustion chamber carbon. The key is to actually lean the ALDA, increase full load fuel delivery by adjusting stop screw on inj. pump, unplug the pressure switch on the intake manifold, connect a fuel hose pincher on the turbo wasetgate to disable it, install an EGT to monitor temps and make sure they don't go above 1300 deg. Fahrenheit and a boost gauge to monitor power levels. The turbo will really sing now! I've put over 60,000 miles on my rebuilt 617 running at 20/25 psi max boost city/hwy. The engine does not smoke in normal usage. I can get it to smoke by hammering it suddenly but I never do that. It uses around 2 quarts of oil every 3,000 miles and 90% is freeway driving above 4,000 RPM. I would recommend saving up and buying a 140/603. Mercedes bragged that it spent close to 1 BILLION US in developing the 140 chassis. One of my diesel head buddies loves his 126/617 so much, he bought his mom one and rebuilt it head to toe for about ten grand total. It's true that the simpler systems of old are more reliable due to their lack of electronic and computerized governance and that is a major factor in the 617. I personally have yet to find a 617 that will idle as still as a 603/606 and you got to love adjusting those damn valve clearances every 12,000 miles! Take care and good luck whatever you do with your money.

[81300sd]

Originally Posted by mash

I have my 87 300TD/84 300TD running at 22/25 psi max boost on freewway. These turbos can develop boost into the 35-40 psi range with the stock injectors/inj. pump. The big problem is the word has gotten out about the ALDA(richness adjuster) and how to richen it creating more power, smoke and combustion chamber carbon. The key is to actually lean the ALDA, increase full load fuel delivery by adjusting stop screw on inj. pump, unplug the pressure switch on the intake manifold, connect a fuel hose pincher on the turbo wasetgate to disable it, install an EGT to monitor temps and make sure they don't go above 1300 deg. Fahrenheit and a boost gauge to monitor power levels. The turbo will really sing now! I've put over 60,000 miles on my rebuilt 617 running at 20/25 psi max boost city/hwy. The engine does not smoke in normal usage. I can get it to smoke by hammering it suddenly but I never do that. It uses around 2 quarts of oil every 3,000 miles and 90% is freeway driving above 4,000 RPM. I would recommend saving up and buying a 140/603. Mercedes bragged that it spent close to 1 BILLION US in developing the 140 chassis. One of my diesel head buddies loves his 126/617 so much, he bought his mom one and rebuilt it head to toe for about ten grand total. It's true that the simpler systems of old are more reliable due to their lack of electronic and computerized governance and that is a major factor in the 617. I personally have yet to find a 617 that will idle as still as a 603/606 and you got to love adjusting those damn valve clearances every 12,000 miles! Take care and good luck whatever you do with your money.

That all sounds like a recipe for disaster and I know better than doing any of what you have suggested.

Pinch the wastegate hose? Are you serious? Why wouldn't you just remove the hose if you wanted it disabled.

No offense intended but I am wanting suggestions on a better, more efficient, modern turbo, not how to blow up my perfectly fine motor.

[Simpler=Better]

Properly setup VNT!!!

[81300sd]

Thanks Simpler. I will check out the VNT's

[Bajaman]

"Only" two quarts of oil every 3k huh? Is this supposed to be a good thing? Everyone knows that just turning up the boost won't do anything without increasing the fuel. Though you've turned up the injection pump, why is 25 psi the magic number, and did you know that is way outside the designed operating pressure for the Garrett T3?

[Simpler=Better]

My 617 doesn't burn a drop between oil changes(5k-6k).....

[lowriderdog37]

Originally Posted by mash

I have my 87 300TD/84 300TD running at 22/25 psi max boost on freewway. These turbos can develop boost into the 35-40 psi range with the stock injectors/inj. pump. The big problem is the word has gotten out about the ALDA(richness adjuster) and how to richen it creating more power, smoke and combustion chamber carbon. The key is to actually lean the ALDA, increase full load fuel delivery by adjusting stop screw on inj. pump, unplug the pressure switch on the intake manifold, connect a fuel hose pincher on the turbo wasetgate to disable it, install an EGT to monitor temps and make sure they don't go above 1300 deg. Fahrenheit and a boost gauge to monitor power levels. The turbo will really sing now! I've put over 60,000 miles on my rebuilt 617 running at 20/25 psi max boost city/hwy. The engine does not smoke in normal usage. I can get it to smoke by hammering it suddenly but I never do that. It uses around 2 quarts of oil every 3,000 miles and 90% is freeway driving above 4,000 RPM. I would recommend saving up and buying a 140/603. Mercedes bragged that it spent close to 1 BILLION US in developing the 140 chassis. One of my diesel head buddies loves his 126/617 so much, he bought his mom one and rebuilt it head to toe for about ten grand total. It's true that the simpler systems of old are more reliable due to their lack of electronic and computerized governance and that is a major factor in the 617. I personally have yet to find a 617 that will idle as still as a 603/606 and you got to love adjusting those damn valve clearances every 12,000 miles! Take care and good luck whatever you do with your money.

Originally Posted by 81300sd

That all sounds like a recipe for disaster and I know better than doing any of what you have suggested.

Pinch the wastegate hose? Are you serious? Why wouldn't you just remove the hose if you wanted it disabled.

No offense intended but I am wanting suggestions on a better, more efficient, modern turbo, not how to blow up my perfectly fine motor.

HAHAHAHAHA!!!!!

I just got a Garrett 2256 for $40 on ebay. You just have to be patient and look. Get with me if you get the same thing. I will pay you for a set of whatever you need to make for install. I have no garage and need my car, so I can't really screw around making everything at the moment.

The turbo was a good price so I got it.

[DeliveryValve]

Originally Posted by Simpler=Better

Definitely go VNT. The GT2256V (smaller end, daily driver type)can be had on ebay for around $100 (sold as a core) It's from a Jeep Liberty CRD.....

Actually the Jeep Liberty came with a GT2056v not a GT2256v. The 2256 came on the 2.7L Dodge/Frieghtliner Sprinters.

[DeliveryValve]

Originally Posted by 81300sd

....
Not worried about bolt on or easiest install. I work at a metal fab shop so I can pretty much fab anything I need to do it right.

Originally Posted by lowriderdog37

.....
I just got a Garrett 2256 .... Get with me if you get the same thing. I will pay you for a set of whatever you need to make for install. ........

I have a GT2256V from a Sprinter that I have been sitting on.










I think having an equal length header would help with the flow to the turbo instead of having a bottle neck restriction with an adapter plate. The turbo exhaust inlet is roughly 75% of the size of the exhaust manifold outlet.

If you can make an equal length header, I would be interested in it.

Originally Posted by lowriderdog37

.....
I just got a Garrett 2256 for $40 on ebay. You just have to be patient and look. ..

That is a damn good price for a Sprinter turbo. Usually the are in the $150 plus range on eBay.





.

[Simpler=Better]

Making a custom header would be a little tricky. Not alot of outward clearance in the engine bay.

[DeliveryValve]

Tricky yes, but if you have a talented person.. no problem! The turbo can be seated out a little and upward if needed.

[300SD81]

I could use an exhaust adapter plate for the 2265V as well. How much would you charge to make one?

[81300sd]

I was thinking of doing a header. One of the things we specialize in is mandrel tube bending. I can bend anything I want in my off time.

Equal length header is going to be hard to do within the space limitations. Unequal length would be pretty easy and I don't think you would ever notice a difference in power.

I will see what I can do. I don't have mine apart yet. What is the exhaust port size? I will start checking out what dies we have once I know what the port size is so I can figure on a tubing size.

I think If I do all of this, I will run off 4 or 5 sets.