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However, that being said, as I referenced in my last post, I should probably rebuild my lift pump to ensure that that part of the fuel system is up to spec so the results are valid. |
OFV
I just received my second performance OFV, I wanted a spare.
I installed the first one about a year ago and have been very happy with the performance improvements. Prior to installing the performance OFV I had replaced the vehicles original OFV with a new ME/BE OFV. It is a maintenance item. There was a noticeable improvement in drivability as compared to the old one. The car (85 SD) no longer felt like it was running out of fuel at higher RPM's. However, the performance OFV is a substantial improvement over stock. Acceleration and drivability are greatly improved. The car no longer behaves like an old diesel. Highly recommended. |
Down to 10 of the NEW bodies, and 8 springs for TURBO
Down to the very last NEW OFV for NA applications. |
I asked about this on the superturbodiesel forum, it seems that unless you are running much larger elements and higher RPMs it doesn't seem to matter, I was thinking of just adding in an FPR on the return line instead as it would be easier to install and I could have the ability to adjust the pressure without it being a fixed pressure.
Changing overflow valve to adjustable FPR? |
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This benefits stock IPs / stock injectors as noted by almost 100 folks who have installed this. |
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Gruß Volker |
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I donīt think a standard fuel pressure regulator is easier to install as you have to mess around with several hoses, hose clamps, adaptors, mount the regulator somewhere,... To change the valve you just need a 17mm open-end spanner, thatīs it. Keep in mind that all the cheap fuel pressure regulators from eBay and so on are not rated for Diesel fuel. Gruß Volker |
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UPDATE:
ALL NA (NON-TURBO) new OFVs are now SOLD ! Thanks !! Less than 10 of the Turbo (NEW OFV) remain, and 7 springs left (turbo as well). Thanks again ! |
Update:
There could be variations in OM606 pumps, so until this is ascertained, no sales for OM606engines. Will update shortly. |
Just an FYI from my experience...........
I'd like to add that the ID of the supply line to the lift pump is too small and has a few restrictions built into it also reducing i/p internal pressure.. For those of you running more than stock HP, increasing the supply hose ID to at least 1/2 will ensure the lift pump is not being subject to cavitation damage which will eventually lead to pump putting out less pressure and volume. Those of you with the 123 wagons have more restrictions in fuel supply flow than the 123 sedan. Using a 9psi electric boost pump near the tank helps starting and idle quality.....especially using WVO. Long cranking times to start is often the supply volume and pressure to the i/p. I found that on my 1985 123 sedan, this fuel line size limited the power at 3500 rpm and up quiet a lot. Adding a boost pump allowed the engine to reach 4900 rpm at WOT in any gear. Whereas before, power fell off at 4000 rpm, and in 2nd and 3rd and top gear rpm's never got over 3900 rpm. FYI...The head was ported to the limit and Total Seal second rings to new pistons and sleeves. I/P was optimized with new elements . I just wish I had known about Myna back then. . |
I agree,I had a 12 psi electric pump also,It seems my 617 charged up mountains,leaving alot of new cars in the dust.However they have got expensive,I always bought NAPA solenoids pumps.
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