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#1
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help with performance upgrades
I have searched for a while now but I can't seem to find what I'm looking for.
I have a 1983 300SD that will make the Mercedes purist hate me, I made the exhaust exit through the hood (sounds pretty cool) Also I have cut the springs to lower the car a few inches. Now for what I would like the car to do..... I have already removed the ALDA but I want the car to blow more black smoke maybe even "roll coal". More power is a plus I'm not too concerned with MPG as the car is now it gets 20 in the city and 25+ of the highway. Something to make the car a little faster off the would be great. |
#2
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You can't do much with a 617 turbo engine,not made for high rev's.Propane would be the easiest power add on. Set for about 6 psi at full throttle.So much cheaper than buying a myna pump.Or replace with better diesel.I saw a cummins in a old Caddy.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#3
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Is there anything I could do to to put fuel in the engine or more boost? Without dumping a ton of money into it.
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#4
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Quote:
You couldn't drive that car in my state with the exhaust coming out of the hood, where do you drive it?
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Strelnik Invest in America: Buy a Congressman! 1950 170SD 1951 Citroen 11BN 1953 Citroen 11BNF limo 1953 220a project 1959 180D 1960 190D 1960 Borgward Isabella TS 2dr 1983 240D daily driver 1983 380SL 1990 350SDL daily driver alt 3 x Citroen DS21M, down from 5 3 x Citroen 2CV, down from 6 |
#5
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I live and drive it in south Texas.... I have not been pulled over..... yet
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#6
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Rolling coal is stupid.
Edit: But hood stacks are awesome, so I guess you break even For more power get your timing fixed(check the chain stretch, get a new tensioner spring, and drip time the IP position) Adjust valves("free") check your overflow spring, or replace it ($30) get your injectors rebuilt with 315 nozzles($150? 200?) turn up the boost just a little until it doesn't smoke at full speed get a pyrometer($75) then we can talk about more mods The 617 is definitely a high revver for diesels, the governor is set at what, 5500rpm?
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment Last edited by Simpler=Better; 05-06-2015 at 09:11 AM. |
#7
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^^what he said
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1982 300D Turbodiesel, daily driver. Mods so far: Fram 8038 paper filter, 4 brake light mod, Gen II w126 (front) rotors/calipers, boost turned up to 12lbs, non-egr manifolds, water/methanol injection, 4-speed manual 1980 300SD Turbodiesel, project car, nearly ready to hit the street 1974 240D, New paint |
#8
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Thanks for the help y'all.
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#9
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I'd get a Cummins,you can make huge horsepower.Mercedes diesels are to small.
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1999 w140, quit voting to old, and to old to fight, a god damned veteran |
#10
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Would a cummins fit in the engine bay? Would you need build a sub frame to handle the power?
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#11
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The stack through the hood is awesome on an MB diesel car. |
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The Alamo in San Antonio, Texas - circa early 1900s. Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 05-09-2015 at 08:02 PM. |
#13
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One more thing-adjust the modulator pressure and shift points o nteh transmission. It just takes time and maybe $30 to slap a pressure gauge together. Shifting at the right points and not slipping will make a huge difference in acceleration.
The list above comes out to like $500(assuming you bu a new timing chain, gaskets, little stuff, etc.) and should put you at somewhere around 140hp/240ft-lbs? Most crappy driver 300Ds are actually running around at 90hp and shift way too soon. The 617 doesn't make crazy power, but after you get the base list done, you can probably get it higher for another $200 and some time tweaking. No one has dyno sheets but rave about results. You've gotta get the basics done first, or the extras won't help much.
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$60 OM617 Blank Exhaust Flanges $110 OM606 Blank Exhaust Flanges No merc at the moment |
#14
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YouTube the "Evil Doctor Burt" video, I think he advanced the cam a bit with an offset key and also advanced the injection pump timing a bit. Set the valves just a bit tighter so they stay open longer = more air to burn more fuel.
Beyond that and other things mentioned above, you'll need to start modifying the injection pump and the injectors. There is information out there, beware that DIY injection pump modifications run the high risk of putting your pump so far out of calibration that you either have to replace it or send it out for calibration. You might also risk destroying the pump.
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Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
#15
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__________________
Respectfully, /s/ M. Dillon '87 124.193 (300TD) "White Whale", ~392k miles, 3.5l IP fitted '95 124.131 (E300) "Sapphire", 380k miles '73 Balboa 20 "Sanctification" Charleston SC |
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