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Go Back   PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum > Mercedes-Benz Tech Information and Support > Diesel Discussion > Diesel Performance Tuning

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  #1  
Old 09-28-2019, 08:47 PM
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Put my turbo on top

Hey guys,


I wanted to show my progress so far. I bought my 87 300sdl with 139,000 miles in good condition. I built an exhaust manifold and bought all the necessary plumbing for relocating the turbo. I cant say there was a huge notable difference, maybe slightly more responsive but the 0 to 60 is still 14.






Before someone chews me up, yes I have the wastegate blocked off with a bolt and exhaust pipe for an intake. Its a work in progress.

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  #2  
Old 10-01-2019, 07:59 AM
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First thing I would do is check the timing chain for stretch. This is done at the cam sprocket and harmonic balancer comparisons. If it's off a couple of degrees then you should install a woodruff key that compensates. I would advance the cam a couple of degrees to bring up the low end torque. Which means the car will have more power down low.
The woodruff keys are available at ******** az.
Next thing would be to advance the injection pump 3 degrees over stock. The timing is probably late due to timing chain stretch. Hopefully you'll have enough of an adjustment. Otherwise you'll have to remove the injection pump and reposition to obtain the correct timing. I had to do this on my 300sd. Like I said makes a big difference in performance.
Lastly put a manual boost controller set to 15 psi. The factory setting is probably off by a couple of psi. You'll needs a boost gage to monitor the upper level of boost, these are fairly cheap on eBay. Also the manual boost controller is also available on eBay fairly cheap.
All these improvements make a big difference.
You'll be very happy when these adjustments are made.
Got to love these old mechanical diesels.
Roddy

Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk
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  #3  
Old 10-01-2019, 12:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS View Post
I wanted to show my progress so far. I bought my 87 300sdl with 139,000 miles in good condition. I built an exhaust manifold and bought all the necessary plumbing for relocating the turbo. I cant say there was a huge notable difference, maybe slightly more responsive but the 0 to 60 is still 14.
What exactly are you trying to accomplish? If you're just trying to simplify the exhaust manifold setup, find a W140 diesel in a junkyard and use its exhaust manifold and crossover pipe setup. It gets rid of the ridiculous loop back system that bypassed the trap oxidizer without resorting to a lot of custom fab work.

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Originally Posted by dieselworks View Post
If it's off a couple of degrees then you should install a woodruff key that compensates. I would advance the cam a couple of degrees to bring up the low end torque.
Good luck with that. The 60x engines don't use a woodruff key, they use a locating dowel on the cam that is not adjustable. If the timing is retarded the only way to correct it is to roll a new chain.
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  #4  
Old 10-02-2019, 11:17 PM
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Thanks for the info dieselworks. An upgraded head swap is on my list along with the timing chain.

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What exactly are you trying to accomplish?
I want to make the car go faster. When I started researching it I saw a lot of custom manifolds and bigger turbos to compliment the IP upgrades. I weld for a living so the header is what got me excited about it.
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  #5  
Old 10-03-2019, 10:55 AM
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Originally Posted by VicS View Post
I want to make the car go faster.
You'll want a 22 head casting if you're upping power, the original 14 casting is fine for stock power but won't reward you if you're hammering on it. You'll need an injection pump with upsized pumping elements and a tune, and you'll need an upgraded turbo. The stock turbos are pretty well at their limit on these cars. If you really want power improvements, find yourself a turbo 606 to swap in. With them being 4-valve they breathe a lot better and have a central prechamber instead of offset like the 603.
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  #6  
Old 10-16-2019, 08:19 PM
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I cant believe it, I found a 22 head at picknpull! I'm going to attempt to pull it tomorrow, but I'm nervous I'll screw it up. Ive had to abort mission due to stripped bolts there before. Any tips would be appreciated.
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  #7  
Old 10-22-2019, 02:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by VicS View Post
I cant believe it, I found a 22 head at picknpull! I'm going to attempt to pull it tomorrow, but I'm nervous I'll screw it up. Ive had to abort mission due to stripped bolts there before. Any tips would be appreciated.
What a find! I'm in the middle of a head gasket replacement on my #14 head and the only issues I had were exhaust manifold studs breaking off which can be solved once you're home and the head is on a table. The triple-square head bolts all came loose on my 255k head albeit with a nice sharp *crack* on each one.
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  #8  
Old 10-23-2019, 11:26 PM
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Yea, my buddy brought a sizeable breaker bar that was real handy. We weren't able to separate the timing chain though, had to unbolt the cam sprocket and couldn't have fished it out without a pin bar.
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  #9  
Old 10-24-2019, 07:42 PM
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I also ended up leaving the chain in the engine, showed less than a degree of stretch and gear teeth looked good so I zip tied the chain to the gear at TDC and yanked the bolt. Was a real PITA getting the chain guide rail pins out though; hands down biggest struggle of the whole job so far.

What worked for me was heating the bosses of the head where the pin was driven through with a torch. Then prying on some M6x1.0 bolts + washer threaded into the ends of the pins. Even still... had to use enough heat to melt the plastic guides before the pins budged... Not to mention a wrench over the bolt/washer stack for bracing and then a big claw style pry bar. What fun

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