First, great work on the overall 300 E review. However, I am trying to educate myself on the 4matic option that was available back in 89-92 (?). What does everyone know about the performance the 4matic. Why did they stop it as as option in the mid 90's? I know it now has returned with the new 98-99's, but my interest is with the earlier 90's models.

Any comments, history, experiences on the 4matic would be greatly appreciated.

thanks in advance

S.

ssdpab@nobelmed.com

Thanks for the praise of the 300E review. There is something so intangibly "fun" about those cars. On to your questions...

To the best of my knowledge the AWD system used in the W210 E's is a derivative of the ML but without the low-range.

The "4-matic" is its own breed. Using wheel-speed sensors it uses a series of locking differentials (front, rear, and center) that engage and disengage automatically. The only clue its doing its thing is a yellow 4-matic light similar to the more common ASR light. I'm not as familiar with their lifelong durability. (don't see too many here in "hot-lanta") I have not heard anything bad about them so that is always a plus. The system added about 300lbs to the curb weight so performance suffered. The option was scrubbed early in the 93 model year mostly due to lack of demand. It worked great but not many people wanted to sacrifice the handling/performance of adding 300 lbs and pay $6500 extra for it. For use in ski-country its a life-saver, in Miami its a burden. I don't have specific figures offhand but I bet servicing the system is extra bucks as well.

Hope this helps...Lee

Your kind words about the 300E series were nice to read, because the used one I bought has been a very nice car, but it is requiring
a lot of repairs. Forgetting the transmission self-destructing at about 140,000, it still has taken some doing to keep up its maintenance. Mine may not be typical, but one fault I am told, is very common.
The valve guides in the M103 engine are said to be designed or installed improperly, causing them to leak oil when they eventually become loose because the guides were not knurled when they were installed. Repairing this requires a valve job which will be around $2000. I understand this is a very common problem and one independent shop even told me they believed there should have been a recall on the problem.(General laughter)
I still have hopes this car will be a keeper
because the engine otherwise seems strong, but the built-in valve-guide problem might be worth peoples knowing.