OM60_series IP delivery valve reseal
 

Here is the official MB procedure & torque figure for the reseal process.

Thanks MB DOC:).

And here it is right side up.

anyone have a part number for the 606 seals? Our parts dept can't get them supposedly. aren't the 603 seals the same part???

This is what Phil came up with for my 99 E300 (OM606.962)

0179974148 Injector Seal $.40ea

0049974540 Delivery Valve Washer $.90ea

OF course with acrobat reader you can rotate any document. Sorry bout that.

reset pump timing
 

Is it necessary to reset pump timing after replacing o-rings and seals? I am hoping for a r&r job. (I know. Hope is not a strategy)

nope!

thanks John
 

Good deal. Thanks again.

O-ring sizes.
 

If you find yourself in need of the O-rings, and there is no MB dealer handy, or you need them "right now", they are 19mm on the OD and 15mm in the ID.

SteveM.

It's correct that the o-rings and copper washers are the same as those for the OM603 such as the 87 300D. I don't know why these parts are not being carried for the OM606.

I didn't know that one is supposed to replace the compression springs when doing this job. I don't even see these in the catalog. I also don't know why but after each time I did this job I got more nailing at idle, but it should subside eventually. It took my '96 about a month after this job to get rid of the idle knock when warm; there's still some when the engine is cold but it was there before the job too. Also I don't see any need for taking out the pressure valve and carrier while doing this job, only what's above these parts.

springs
 

Anyone out there with a clue as to spring p/n or supplier? Good thread. Thanks. You guys are diesel gods.

Get the number off of the side of the injection pump and take it to an authorized Bosch distributor and they can sell you the spring (along with anything else needed for the pump). I have found the local MB dealer kind of useless when it comes to parts for the Bosch fuel injection pump.

The MB PN for the delivery valve springs are A 001 074 21 93 and they list for $6 each from MB. I don't think they routinely need replacing though unless you lose one or find one broken regardless of what the WIS says.

Great Post
We need more of these.

Be careful though! don't remove anything below the copper washer- if the cylinder comes out and you don't line it up correctly on installation and still torque everything down on top of it, you can damage the pump! :fork_off:

those copper washers are not all the same. Euro spec
 

When I did my ip gasket job on the euro the part numbers that i got from Phil,the dealer, and Bosch were all different. I measured them with my digital calipers and they were different by a couple of tenths of a mm in both ID and OD. I wouldn't use anything that wasnt from Bosch directly for euro versions. The Bosch service person told me that the gaskets for different engine groups may not be interchangable.

When I did this job on my '96 I bought copper washers and o-rings for an 87 300D. I lined up the washers and they were identical. I didn't do that with the o-rings but they fit nicely and I believe they were identical too. It's true that you should always try to get the proper part, but if there's no such part for your vehicle then you have to improvise.

I'd bet they are the same parts but variations in rubber molded o-rings would allow for a tolerance like that. The fact is that none of these are "custom made" they are stock metric o-rings and they are made to within 1MM sizes of varying thicknesses. A couple of tenths of a mm is just the dimensional tolerance of a rubber part.

the copper washer is called a gasket
 

I am talking about the gaskets not the o rings. The o rings are the same. I wouldnt use the wrong gaskets. it is possible that they effect the operation of the pump. This info comes straight from a bosch diesel injection specialist . my ip is for a euro 240d and the gaskets are specific to this pump. They may be interchangable with some, but not all. when I asked him how much of a difference it would be, he didnt know. the gaskets go up in size accordingly to the part no. All of them are easily purchaced through Bosch. To me it makes sense. Those gaskets have to seal perfectly. If they dont match with your delivery tube there may be internal leakage. After i removed the washers that were not for my pump one seemed to stick inside of my delivery tube like the washer was too large. I am hopeing nothing internal was altered. It still runs fine. I have done some research on this. these things look identical to the naked eye. They must have a reason for being different otherwise Bosch wouldn't make them that way.

Sockets not the same
 

I was helping a friend do this job on his '94 S350 a few weeks back. BEWARE the spline sockets sold to do this job are not all the same. We found out the hard way!! There is a different socket for '86 and newer MB's and a larger one for '87 and later cars.

I said to hell with it and welded 2 spline retainers to an old 13/16 deep well (spark plug) socket and used that. It worked great and I had the job done in 45 mins.

Also, I only had to remove the hard fuel lines at both ends, with no bending to get the job done.

Hope this helps.

Viton fuel system components
 

Fastlane is the way to go for Buna (Nitrile) o-rings.

If you are worried about biodiesel/WVO compatable o-ring material use Viton. Since Fastlane does not carry Viton I bought more than I needed and have the rest up for sale on my website.

http://www.fryerpower.com/store/page11.html

-Jim

Dang, I ordered all the seals and gaskets for my whole IP, including the delivery valve o-rings and copper gaskets... and I even ordered the cam lock tool for pulling the pump but forget to get the spline socket tool.

I hope this can be sourced locally, or is it a MB part only?

rubber O-ring
MB# 0179974148
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&descriptio n=0179974148&x=14&y=7

Delivery Valve Washer
MB# 0049974540
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/ksearch/pel_search.cgi?SUPERCAT_FLAG=Y&make=MBZ&please_wait=N&forumid=&threadid=&command=DWsearch&descriptio n=0049974540&I1.x=15&I1.y=10



.

Cool.. thanks for answering my question...

I am redoing the IP pressure valve seal as well and I have a few questions. The 7x are what is depicted in the pdf file in the first post.

1) I replaced the copper washer (7f ) and the o-ring (7h ).
2) Is it OK to reuse the compression spring ( 7i )?
3) Pressure valve carrier ( 7g ) can move around inside the hole. Shall I center it? What is the exact position for this?
4) Where shall I put the copper washer? EXACTLY on top of 7g?

Thanks for your info.

1) Good.
2) Yes.
3) It can move around, but when you re-install the holder, it must be centered to allow the holder to screw in place.
4) It just lays on top of 7g. Use a small screwdriver to get 7g and 7f mostly centered before re-installing the main holder (7).

Don't forget to use the 3-stage torque procedure, which is not mentioned in the 602/603 FSM, it's only described in the TDM (Technical Data Manual) and 605/606 FSM. Tighten to 30Nm, release, 30Nm again, release, and then tighten a third time to a final torque of 35Nm.

See the "Installation Note" on page 2 of this PDF file:


:scholar:

Data.
 

Installation note:
To ensure that the seals of the delivery valve holders are correctly located, tighten the delivery valve holder to 30 Nm and slacken, once again tighten to 30 Nm and slacken, and tighten finally to 35 Nm.

I've got some basic questions -- why do you want to do this? In other words, is it because it leaks, or noise, or just age?

Secondly, I'm a little confused with the torque process. You have to slacken between torques? Do you just slacken a little? What does this accomplish?

1) Leaks.

2) Yes, slacken just a little (say, 1/8 to 1/4 turn). This allows 3 total tightening instances which helps fully seat the copper crush washer for a better seal.

:boat:

ok, well I have no leaks, but I do have injector noise that stays with the cylinder. I'm thinking prechamber or maybe one of these seals.

But no leaks means I should leave it alone?

No leaks generally means leave the IP alone. The injector noise could be a spray pattern issue... I'd pull the injectors and have them all pop tested. Prechambers almost never fail so it's extremely unlikely that's an issue unless the noise is severe. You can do a visual inspection to verify the spherical pin is still present in the prechamber. Another possibility is an internal IP problem, but changing the DV seals is not likely to cure this. It wouldn't hurt to replace them for grins, but don't be surprised if that doesn't fix the problem.

BTW - it helps if you update your profile with the year & model of your car, so we know what engine you are discussing...

:zorro:

Related data
 

Drip Timing Threads
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diesel-discussion/197093-drip-timing-threads.html

Diesel Injection Pump TIMING thread
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/diy-links-parts-category/320485-diesel-injection-pump-timing-thread.html



.

When I used to rebuild Fuel Injection Pumps the only time a delivery Valve Spring was replaced was if it was broken or had some issue that looked off when you looked at it.

We did inspect the Delivery Valves themselves to see if they were worn. However, in this case you are better off leaving it along; I don't recommend pulling up on the Body of the Delivery Valve as it can pull up the Element Body.

He could use Viton O-rings and He might not have to change them again.

This great FORUM is hosted by PELICAN PARTS which sells these o-rings and copper seals...why not to buy from them ? Who needs MB dealer ?

wow, I think that's very nice. thanks

helping
 

recycled for a new owner.

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