I accidentally broke the prechamber extractor I borrowed from another member. I bought him another, but was able to salvage something out of the deal for myself.

It snapped off about 1/4" above where the threads for the prechamber start, so what I did is ground that 1/4" above the threads to about a 45* angle and took a rod coupler with the same inside threads as the inside of the tool, and ground the outside of one end of it at a 45* angle too. Then I threaded the two pieces onto a rod with the two angle-ground ends facing each other.

Then I threaded one of my old damaged prechambers onto the threads to protect them. Next I fired up my wire feed welder and filled in the areas where I had ground the two pieces at 45* with good solid weld. So I ended up with a piece about 2 to 2-1/4 inches long with prechamber threads on one end, a 3/4" hex on the other end, and a fully threaded hole its entire length.

With a 5" fully threaded grade 5 bolt, a couple of washers, and my 27mm deep socket (injector socket) I now have a tool that will pull the prechambers up until they are flush with the top of the retaining ring threads in the head. Once they have moved that far (about 3/16") then pulling them the rest of the way with the slide hammer is a cinch every time.

Now I just have to fab the retaining ring removal tool (like MBwerer describes) and get a cheapo slide hammer from Harbor Freight and I'm all set...

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1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown

get a 5lb hammer or bigger.

You could have just gone to a bike store and gotten a Shimano crank puller.

I have the long ring tool for rent, I was never able to remove a single ring with any of the 4 sockets I modified. I do not see how anyone can apply 70ftlb of force on that soft brass....

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http://superturbodiesel.com/images/sig.04.10.jpg
1995 E420 Schwarz
1995 E300 Weiss
#1987 300D Sturmmachine
#1991 300D Nearly Perfect
#1994 E320 Cabriolet
#1995 E320 Touring
#1985 300D Sedan
OBK #42

Absolutely, HOWEVER, that isn't always enough. The Snap-on slide hammer I was using must be close to 5 pounds (it's a bigger chunk of steel than my 3.5 lb sledge) and it wouldn't even BUDGE two of the prechambers in my motor.

Once I used my improvised puller to pull them up flush with the surface of the head they popped right out no problem. So, if I'm using it to get them starte coming out, I think I can get away with a much smaller slide hammer...

Ummm, maybe you missed the part about I broke a borrowed tool? When I break something that belongs to someone else I replace it with one just like it. Then I just used the broken piece and a rod coupler to make my own - took all of 10 minutes and $2 rod coupler.

I think the trick is that you have to put something with just a slightly smaller OD than the ID of the inner threads of the retaining ring inside of the modified socket - to keep it centered and so the tangs stay in the slots of the retaining ring. At least that's what I plan on doing....

__________________
1984 300 Coupe TurboDiesel
Silver blue paint over navy blue interior
2nd owner & 2nd engine in an otherwise
99% original unmolested car
~210k miles on the clock

1986 Ford F250 4x4 Supercab
Charcoal & blue two tone paint over burgundy interior
Banks turbo, DRW, ZF-5 & SMF conversion
152k on the clock - actual mileage unknown