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#1
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300 5cyl. homemade prechamber puller
1. Made a collar remover from an old 1/2" drive socket from a pawn shop (50 cents and 5 minutes).
2. Bought a Shimano bicycle crank remover for 22mmx1mm cranks at a good bike shop $16.00 3. Welded crank tool to old slide hammer. 10 minutes 4. Removed prechambers from head which was off the engine (6 minutes, one was really stuck). It's not ready to loan but will be Monday. I need to grind the welds. I'm not ready to hear you guys open a post on dirt dobbers. |
#2
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hey congratulations.i tried to make one a few years ago.just about finished it when i found a oem tool for cheap.think ive still got the pieces lying around
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#3
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I guess you don't need that slide hammer for any other applications ?
Are there 10 threads per inch on your 22mm section ? |
#4
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puller
A. Is there a way to add DIY to the title of a post once it has been circulated?
B. I have a couple slide hammers. This ones' shaft is 3/8" and I could cut/thread a new shaft if I want to reuse this pullers hammer. C. The thread pitch is 1mm or 25.4 threads per inch. D. You can also find a 22mmx1mm pitch shaft in a junk yard. It's on the end of the CV joint shafts for 1975-1982 Nissan cars. If your neighbor has one of these cars I guess you will have to tell the police that you didn't see or hear anything last night. Then ask him "What's the country coming too?" E. Send me an e-mail if you need to borrow. |
#5
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NO, you will just have to copy what you have posted and re post with your title the way you want it.... can't change the titles...
I am looking in my metal working book.... and trying to understand what size you have.... for 22mm it lists the number of threads per inch as 10 and 2.5 thead pitch. for 6mm it lists 1mm as the thread pitch as and 25 in number.... How did you discover the SHamano and the Nissan connections? |
#6
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can you e-mail or post a pic of that homebrew puller?
bennett@networld.com I am trying to picture how you made the collar remover with a 1/2 extension.. what did you use to span across to the notches ? what am I missing here.. anybody? *update*.. youn ground the socket to fit the collar right? and used an extension in the ground socket? bennett |
#7
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puller
Leathermang: A couple months ago I posted a request for info on a 22mmx1mm bolt. I had tried every industrial bolt supply in Houston up to that point. I thought with all the refineries and industrial complexes around Houston they would come up with one but, I struck out. This site didn't help me back then so I went to a NAPA parts house that has real counter help and asked if they knew where I could find this bolt pattern. A savy guy looked under CV joint castle nuts and came up with 22mmx1mm fitting Nissan cars. I called a couple junk yards but could not find a wrecked car.
One reader a couple weeks ago replied to a post about a cracked pre-chamber and mentioned a bicycle part could be used. I searched the web for 22mmx1mm and found references to shimano dura-ace cranks. The next day I bought a crank puller at a bike shop and welded it up Saturday morning. It works great. The pre-chambers were out and the head is getting reworked. This all started because a machine shop would not surface the head unless I had the chambers removed. I'm rebuilding the engine and restoring the interior of a wagon so rather than spend a couple hundred bucks on the tools I used the expertise of this site to solve my problem. Thanks to all. By the way, I used my deep cut Milwaukee porta-band saw to cut the ears on the 1/2" drive socket that's why it only took a couple minutes. Could have done it with a hack saw but I find every excuse I can to use power tools. I'll post pictures next week. |
#8
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You are some kind of detective and that parts guy IS some kind of savy....
I guess I will not bother trying the bolt houses here in Austin... very small town attitude towards keeping stuff in stock.. and I never run across any savy counter people.... I would appreciate you putting a ruler next to the threads and telling me how many threads there are to an inch..... It looks like I may have to use my lathe to make mine.... Thanks and bravo on your work. |
#9
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Bikes use all sorts of wacky threads, 1.37x24tpi for example. I have not checked, but I bet the crank extractor is 1.0 mm pitch.
what I want to know is can you rig up a safe spring compressor for suspension work on the 123s or is is best to rent the tool? I don't think I will be spending $1000 anytime soon to buy one. -Andy
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andy t '78 300d '95 volvo 850, wagon '86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June whole bunch o' bicycles |
#10
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Greg, I just went and checked, the crank extractor here is 22x1. buying one retail is about $15, not as cheap as making it on the lathe but maybe faster. -andy
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andy t '78 300d '95 volvo 850, wagon '86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June whole bunch o' bicycles |
#11
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It does sound like bikes use some wacky sizes.... but it surprises me that MB would use a non standard thread on the injectors... thus I am just trying to confirm the size....
Springs can easily maim or kill you . Don't take any chances with them. That does not mean you can not make your own compressors but does mean it should not be your first metal working project....this is pretty much one of those deals where " if you have to ask" you do not have the experience to do it safely. Your health is worth more than you probably realize at your age.... don't take any unnecessary chances with springs. Even when I am using correct gear.... I use an aircraft cable and tie the spring so it can not come out at me in case something slips or breaks.... " **** happens"... try not letting it happen to your face.... edit, Ok you posted while I was composing... so this is a 22 mm diameter rod with 1mm threads.... so this is a VERY FINE thread for the size of the rod , right ? |
#12
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yes. very fine for the size.
Spring compressor would not be my first project, but the more I look at it, the more I wonder how much I would save. It would take a while to make something that aproximates the compressors that I have seen pictures of for this car. I had in mind 3/4" acme threaded rod and some thick plates with a raised edge to keep the springs where they belong. -Andy
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andy t '78 300d '95 volvo 850, wagon '86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June whole bunch o' bicycles |
#13
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That was too flipant a statement on my part.. what I mean is that one should have some pretty good experience with metal to consider making one...springs are very strong .... and mild steel would not be appropriate for this... and improperly heat treated steel would not be safe either...there are lots of other homemade tools without the kind of injury/death potential of a spring compressor...
Does it sound like I am scared of springs ? R E S P E C T is the operative word.. and I have all my fingers/eyes/teeth to show I have worked at it..... |
#14
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I totally agree about the danger of springs, especially large coil springs - about the only automotive work I can think of that is worse is frame/body straightening with chain and "NOBODY" does that anymore. Think about the stored potential energy in that spring. If it can quickly accelerate a heavy car against gravity it won't have any trouble with saline filled cell membranes (your body). I make a fair amount of my own tools (want to make the Prechamber puller now) but I will never live long enough to get around to making a coil spring compressor. I've thought about it, but always dismissed it.
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#15
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You guys convinced me. Now, which place is it that rents these things out for a couple weeks at a time? something like you put dowm a huge deposit and they ship you the tool. Anybody know? thanks.
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andy t '78 300d '95 volvo 850, wagon '86 300sdl - engine out, maybe I'll have it rolling by June whole bunch o' bicycles |
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