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2 Attachment(s)
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Check out the instructions at http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/W124BallJoint if you haven't done so already. They're well written and easy to follow. To get the old joint out, I sliced it straight across using an angle grinder with a thin cutoff blade. I cut it very close to the A-arm (takes under 2 minutes to cut it off clean), and then used a 2-arm gear puller to press it out (there are little tabs on the A-arm that the gear puller can grab). Cutting it off gave a solid flat surface to press against. I also heard all of the press-not-fitting-right stories, so to put the new joint in, I made my own press out of a big C-clamp and some pieces of 4x4 drilled out to fit the profile of the ball joint. I reinforced each side of the 4x4 with aluminum plate to provide a more solid surface to press against, and marked the top and bottom of the pieces with center marks so that I could align the clamp to apply pressure evenly. It worked great; see the attached photos - they may explain it better. |
Home Made Special Tools, This is where members can share how they made special tools
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240D IP turning tool
Here is the rig I used to rotate the IP on my 240D.
The round notch fits around the #1 element fitting with a little clearance. The left and right bolts tighten the rig to the square front end. The fixed bolt on top is for a long wrench to act as a push bar. If anyone can use this tool it is yours for the cost of shipping. My IP rig for my 300D is on loan. When I get it back I will post a pic. It looks much this one but thinner to clear the oil dip stick. No nut on top, instead a 1" x 3" pipe welded on top. Stick in the jack handle and push. The rig is held in place by a 3/8" set screw on the inboard side instead of the 2 bolts as on the 240D tool.. The outboard side of the channel has a small hook that goes under the edge of the front of the IP square by just 1/8". I tried to rig a push device against the fender wall but it was in the way to tighten the easy front nut so gave up on that Idea. The rotation to set the IP is so little the steel lines are only a small problem. After my adjustment I undid the top nuts and bent the lines to fit without any tension. I have had 3 MB cars and the pump needed a little advance on all 3 for better performance and fuel economy. I think MB sets conservative. Have fun. |
OM617 Engine Oil Cooler Line WRENCH
4 Attachment(s)
Since I didn`t have a 27mm, I used a 1 1/16in. Cut out the width on the pipe.
One side has to be ground down to clear the injection Pump. wrench is 8 inches long. Use a 7/8 open end on the cooler as a back up to take the stress off the cooler incase the nut is corroded on. cooler is aluminium with steel oil cooler line nut. Use Anti-seiz on the threads when replacing the lines. There is a fix from MB called "Screwed Nipples" (for real) if the oil cooler threads get stripped. Charlie |
What about this one?
I'm about to try out this one that seems to be missing from the list
http://www.peachparts.com/Wikka/OM617CrankshaftSeal |
Yes
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^ Cool, thanks.
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what does everyone use for the torque capsule adjustment?
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More data please
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Picture of what you are calling a torque capsule would really help. |
Heat-shield removal Tool
1 Attachment(s)
Special Tool:
A three inch long lag bolt works great for pulling heat-shields. A quarter or half turn to seat it, then rock it until the shield breaks loose. |
Brake pad and center bearing puller
5 Attachment(s)
A 5/8" x 14" bolt and a sliding weight makes a good slam hammer. The two rods with a bend on the end will hook into the holes in the brake pads. One slam and the pad slides out.
The other attachment holding the small bolt is used for pulling the pins for timing chain work. The weight is turned to fit a lower support joint to hammer it out. The long reach puller is for pulling the center drive shaft bearing. Make the hooks to pull against the inner collar to save the bearing. The angle pieces were cut at the MetalMart for $5.00 for the pair. Dropping the differential is a lot easier when it is secured to the floor jack. The hand is 1/8" plate. the two holes match the two bottom bolts on the diff door. Drain the oil first. |
Make your own cylinder Leakdown Tester
http://www.lovehorsepower.com/MR2_Docs/leak_down_testing.htm http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0812_diy_leak_down_testing/index.html http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=520536 http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?2229-How-to-Make-a-Leak-Down-Tester-amp-Perform-a-Test http://www.motorcycleproject.com/motorcycle/text/leakdown.html http://www.650motorcycles.com/LeakDownTester.html PROCEDURES FOR: COMPRESSION AND LEAKAGE TESTING http://cust.educ.ubc.ca/wstudents/tsed/Students06/cdemers/PROCEDURE%20FOR%20COMPRESSION%20TESTING.doc |
This 19 MM ALLEN tool is needed to remove the blank off plug from the engine block heater port.
http://www.pts-tools.com/ KP3035279 1 Snap-On/Williams - 19mm Hex Bit Socket Standard Length 1/2 Drive Price: $14.40 Part Number: KN5310988 Description: Bondhus Ball End Hex Key -- 19mm Long Arm 11-1/4'' Arm Length Brand: Bondhus MFG Part #: 10988 Availabilty: 8 Price: $24.35 http://www.pts-tools.com/ http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-allen-wrenches Metric Sizes 19 mm 10 13/16" 5503A56 $19.64 http://www.mcmaster.com/#metric-allen-wrenches |
FYI
Some of this data may give you ideas on how to make a special tool.
Handy Farm Devices and How to Make Them http://journeytoforever.org/farm_library/device/devicesToC.html#contents |
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