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  #1  
Old 02-22-2012, 04:10 AM
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Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052

1993
300CE
W124.052
engine M104.992

Turns out my harness was made in 2002, and i guess the rat did merk me..
turns out the crumpled wires in my earier thread was just my fuel pressure sensor

anyways i tried following timmyr's advice to inspect the coils/plugs/injectors/wiring

and i thought id just post this thread as an update for him, as pms do have a limit.. and its just easier for me to type.

DIY NOOBS FTW! thanks again timmyr


The black intake thing was actually easy as hell to get off cause the previous owner broke whatever it screwed to :|


first coil, a little piece of it fell off as i tried to take it out, i got the lower part of the coil off too, but i couldn't take the coil out! it just wouldn't come out!!


rat crap under the injector harness


injector harness so dry, that the sleeving/harness jacket is coming off..


opened it up a little for inspection

looks fine..

temporary taped it back up, going to research how to cover it up properly, with tape/rubber.

- not to mention whoever last installed the harnesss.. damn them for the zipties.. they cracked and cracked, as i had to cut through the, (the zipties) then again it is almost 9-10 years old since the harness was changed..



coil pack #2..

stupid thing broke off, and the solder points look red/brownish.. not good..

little bastard gashed me too.

injector #1 plug


injector #1


sure enough, timmyr was right, the injectors needed cleaning, and also #3 connector was loose, which was throwing the error #19 code..
but the problem is.. the damned injectors don't clip back in!!!

also i lost the nut to screw my battery negative clamp down..
and its 1 am.. so i called it a day.. :|

no diy ever goes well for me dammit! but im learning
thanks again timmyr.


btw what does this connector do? its by my battery tray..

note that my battery tray is all rusted, and so is the passenger side strut mount by the battery.. and many of my grounds seem to be on the rusted piece.. is that a bad ground?
Attached Thumbnails
Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-2j2x4r8.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-2m3s5yg.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-4jtc85.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-4uvqkm.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-6ds7c8.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2012 at 10:33 PM. Reason: Attached pictures
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  #2  
Old 02-22-2012, 07:47 AM
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Posts: 722
the mystery connector is for the monovalve-german for heater control valve. if it's unplugged or falls off, heat all the time. good luck, chuck.
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  #3  
Old 02-22-2012, 05:47 PM
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
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i'm having a hard time putting the injectors back in, and just noticed a vacuum leak to the ETA.

~edit.. injectors are in, just pushed them in with my socket, and they went in with a click..
whatever vacuum pipe was connected to the ETA, i reconnected.. man was it a PITA to get under there.. without taking off the manifold

but the idle seems to be ALOT lower, and smoother.. although it still sinks to 500 and shakes about and such..

going to order plugs real soon, got the plug tool from autozone, crap but i need to change em sooner or later so yeah

cleaned - YouTube

^ update video

steer.3GP - YouTube

^ another video showing the steering

and the car seems to stink after i crank it a few times, is this cause the smog pump? although it stinks like rotton eggs, not fuel.
sorry about the quality and angles, im recording from my blackberry. thanks again.
Attached Thumbnails
Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-14o4ty0.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-111jric.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-213kad1.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-303g1tc.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-3304sc9.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2012 at 10:21 PM. Reason: Attached pictures
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2012, 05:05 AM
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I GIVE UP!.. i'm throwing the towel! for now.. so i don't damage the car further.. what was i thinking it was an okay car.. -__-
and man does the 103 seem so much simpler now haha

i called a mercedes specialist, who used to work for a dealer trying to work for his own shop, he said he can't diagnose anything until i get a stable idle..

so he said fix the harness myself, or he won't even look at the car.. encouraged by this.. i attempted to pull the harness out, but it has more damaged parts than i thought, and little vacuums were breaking left and right as the previous installer did a really bad job.. will update whatever pics i took (like 3 pics?) to show the horror..

also does leaving a battery on cement kill it? i reconnected it to lower the sunroof as i didn't know when it will be able to move again, connected everything again to see if it would start up, but nope.. i guess i might have cracked a vacuum or a battery or something..

and anyone who can help me.. is way too far, and or want professional prices..
Attached Thumbnails
Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-admecn.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2012 at 10:22 PM. Reason: Attached picture
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:33 AM
JamesDean's Avatar
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Location: NE Ohio
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Don't get too discouraged by breaking small parts. They can always be replaced. Vacuum line is pretty cheap. All those little connectors you can get from places like Parts.com or a local junkyard.

I replaced a harness in a 300E once. It took about 45 minutes or so being very careful. Just take your time and remove yours. Dont rush it.

Once you get it out, repair the broken connections. I'd get a soldering iron, some solders and some heat shrink tubing from RadioShack and have at it. Make it look nice and clean.

Also pick up some Electronics cleaner from the auto parts store. All the connection points on that harness, clean them out with that stuff and make sure every connection is clean and makes contact.

If you were closer, I'd have no problem helping out with stuff. However lol as you said other side of the country.

Have you tried 190Rev.net? Its a w201 community but they're a helpful knowledgeable bunch. Someone is bound to be near you.
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82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:53 AM
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hey james.. haha well i worked and worked at it till about 2:30am.. got home from school around 10:45 pm, was already dead tired.. can't get the damn part of the harness by the tensioner, by the fan, and those seem to be torn too, and i think the p.o disconnected the smog pump, and i think it went bad cause the harness is torn up..

also i could not figure out how to get the damned maf wire, ecu wires out, and the injector/spark plug wires.. i keep getting stuck on them.

radioshack? haha they suck! i was going to get some high temp wires, and some weatherpak/spray silicone, etc no i havn't tried 190rev, not yet! i'm still open to send my wire somewhere i can get it fixed somewhat professionally :| as my soldering isn't really
"top notch" yet

Last edited by gabzor; 02-23-2012 at 07:20 AM.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2012, 07:49 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: 1993 300E 2.8L M104
Posts: 150
hey

snap up some pics of the areas you are having trouble with.

also read through this DIY it might help : PeachPartsWiki: W124 Engine Wiring Harness Replacement
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2012, 05:28 PM
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Tesa wiring harness wrap

The tape that MB harnesses are wrapped with is made by a company called Tesa. I've seen it on eBay, and the MB dealers may have it. It's a high temp thing, and there is supposedly a 3M equivalent sold in the US.

I saw a picture somewhere of the work done by a harness rebuilder who advertises online, and it was finished up with wire loom.
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2012, 05:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve M View Post
The tape that MB harnesses are wrapped with is made by a company called Tesa. I've seen it on eBay, and the MB dealers may have it. It's a high temp thing, and there is supposedly a 3M equivalent sold in the US.

I saw a picture somewhere of the work done by a harness rebuilder who advertises online, and it was finished up with wire loom.
shouldn't i be getting hi-temp wires as well? not just the insulation

well im starting from yesterday when i gave up at 2:30 am.

My title arrived today, i shouldn't have told the dmv that i checked the carfax.. about the odometer, cause now it says "NOT TRUE MILES" on the title

heres all the crap that was there when i lifted up the battery.


broke a bolt cause of so much rust


discovered broken vacuum hose under battery :|


connector is hanging was hanging like this.. previous installer


tensioner


previous owner gave me some vacuum lines, all from autohauzaz so he might already have known his vacuum lines were done for.




first i apologize for posting multiple threads, thought mine was ignored haha so i had to keep posting new ones.. and here are the vids, and i know things were repeated, and im going to make videos, because i'm lazy

and youtube messed up my titles so just ignore the youtube titles.

first vid.
dos - YouTube

2nd vid.
uno - YouTube

thanks
Attached Thumbnails
Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-2cxj2g5.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-2i6ih6o.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-2ns857k.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-212zg9f.jpg   Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-an1rh5.jpg  


Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2012 at 10:26 PM. Reason: Attached pictures
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  #10  
Old 02-23-2012, 05:45 PM
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Location: NE Ohio
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The 3M Super 88 stuff is rated for 105C temps.

3M's Scotch 130C is good for 130C
Scotch 130C Premium Linerless Rubber Splicing Tape, 3/4 in x 30 ft, 41717

I came across this stuff as well, its much more expensive though.
Thermo-Tec : Thermo-Shield
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Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #11  
Old 02-23-2012, 05:52 PM
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I remember those front connectors on the motor. I think I broke something as well. I cant remember what they do exactly though.

If I get a chance and the 300E is up this way, I can snap some pictures of the harness/bay area for comparison.
__________________
Cruise Control not working? Send me PM or email (jamesdean59@gmail.com). I might be able to help out.
Check here for compatibility, diagnostics, and availability!

82 300SD 145k
82 300SD 265k
87 420SEL 230k
89 420SEL 210k
89 560SEL 118k
90 300SE 262k RIP 5/25/2010
90 560SEL 154k
91 300D 2.5 Turbo. 241k
93 190E 3.0 235k
93 300E 195k
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  #12  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:01 PM
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Location: Pittsburgh
Posts: 119
High temp wire sounds like a good idea to me. Some people say you can't go wrong with marine wire. When I did my partial rebuild (to replace wiring to coil pack connectors) I got new connectors from MB that had the wires attached, so I just went with those.
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1996 C280 289K Traded
1997 E420 167K Traded
2001 S430 240K Traded
2010 E550 4matic 80K
2000 GMC Jimmy 198K Gone to Boneyard
2003 Camry LE 196K
2011 Mazda3 i Sport 31K
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  #13  
Old 02-23-2012, 06:35 PM
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james you do know my benz is running the new hfm engine, not the lh or the cis right..
and also when soldering wires, should i first heatshrink to cover the solder then tape it up, then put some rubber/silicone spray? or should i just tape the solders so they are covered, then rubber/spray?

also crimping then soldering, is it a bad idea? some recomended it to me...
Steve - honestly i'd rather send it to someone who knows very well what their doing such as victor300e, but no one seems to want to help me

but i am willing to pay.. for the best materials so this doesn't happen again..

and how much of the wiring should i strip? i mean if i'm doing hi-temp wire.. isn't the non hi-temp wired parts eventually going to die? or should it fine if its just well insulated?
Attached Thumbnails
Wire harness Inspection thread. 1993 300CE W124.052-v6l01z.jpg  

Last edited by whunter; 02-23-2012 at 10:27 PM. Reason: Attached picture
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  #14  
Old 02-23-2012, 08:14 PM
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Posts: 119
I don't know how relevant my C280 wiring project was to yours; you can dig out my posts from a few months ago to see details.

My observation was that wires with good insulation were good in the hottest and coldest parts of the engine compartment. The ones with bad insulation (in the same bundle) were worst in the hot areas, but also bad in the cold spots. So I cut them out right where they left the big ECU plug.

I had intended to wrap it up with the 88 3M electrical tape that James referred to. The electrical supply house told me that it would work, but that the glue is a mess if you ever have to touch it again. They had a roll of white 3M stuff (different than the 130C, I think). I wound up with the genuine McCoy from the dealer.

I think the 88 would work fine, personally. I am unfamiliar with the other coatings you guys have talked about.
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1996 C280 289K Traded
1997 E420 167K Traded
2001 S430 240K Traded
2010 E550 4matic 80K
2000 GMC Jimmy 198K Gone to Boneyard
2003 Camry LE 196K
2011 Mazda3 i Sport 31K
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  #15  
Old 02-23-2012, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gabzor View Post
james you do know my benz is running the new hfm engine, not the lh or the cis right..
and also when soldering wires, should i first heatshrink to cover the solder then tape it up, then put some rubber/silicone spray? or should i just tape the solders so they are covered, then rubber/spray?

also crimping then soldering, is it a bad idea? some recomended it to me...
Steve - honestly i'd rather send it to someone who knows very well what their doing such as victor300e, but no one seems to want to help me

but i am willing to pay.. for the best materials so this doesn't happen again..

and how much of the wiring should i strip? i mean if i'm doing hi-temp wire.. isn't the non hi-temp wired parts eventually going to die? or should it fine if its just well insulated?
Soldering and crimping are alternatives - no need to do both, just do either one well. Also no need to cover your joints twice, heat shrink or tape is fine, and no need to spray it with anything (not sure what rubber/silicone spray is).

No need to overdo it on the wire -anything rated for an engine compartment is fine, such as this - Automotive Wire

Where was this car that it got so rusty? If it was LA it must have been sitting right on the beach it's whole life.
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