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  #1  
Old 05-24-2012, 03:58 PM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Langley, BC, Canada
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diy balancer puller

DIY wooden Puller tool for crankshaft balancer

1. Parts:
Drill press
9mm wood bit
16mm forstner bit for countersinking if necessary.
25mm forstner bit
Block of oak 2” x 2” x 6” (glue togeter two bits if you need to)
Two bolts with the same thread as the pulley-to balancer bolts, about 12 cm long, or as needed.
2. Instructions:
Draw a bold black line lengthways down the middle of the wood block, and mark a centre spot more or less halfway. You are not building a Swiss watch.
Place the damper pulley on the block so that the block’s centre spot is more or less in the middle of the damper pulley, and two of the 6 opposing bolt holes are on the centre line.
Mark the spots of the bolt holes on the centre line by wiggling a pencil.
Drill out two 9mm holes through the block to correspond to the bolt holes. The M8 bolts will slot into them to fit into the balancer’s threaded holes.
In between the two bolt holes, still on the centre line, drill a 25mm hole all the way through the block.
Countersink the bolt holes if you need to (see below).
Voilla. That took all of 10 minutes.
3. How to pull the balancer.
Screw the crankshaft bolt back into the crankshaft as far as it will hand-tighten. Fit your 27mm socket onto it. Bolt the puller onto the balancer to fit snugly against the back of the socket. I had to counter-sink my block a little to give the bolts better purchase. Now undo the bolt by passing an extender through the hole in the block. The socket turns against the block. The balancer is still kept from turning by whatever you used to hold it in the first place.
It will come off easily and will not drop onto the driveway because the bolt is still holding it.
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  #2  
Old 05-25-2012, 02:06 PM
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Gettin' outa chokey
 
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Posts: 13,986
Wood is good - how about some pictures?

Nice idea using the crank shaft bolt as the pulling power.

In fact you should really call it a crankshaft balancer pusher...
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

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  #3  
Old 05-29-2012, 11:04 AM
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Langley, BC, Canada
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hahaha

I am totally useless at uploading photos -- can't get them under 100 as required

My write-ups will never match the standards of yours, Army (and my trans is sitting in the garage just waiting to be taken apart).


Here are some more useful details.

The two bolt holes are 65mm ctr to ctr
The mid point for the shaft hole is then 32.5mm
The block is about as long as a banana.

Useful tip for getting the balancer back on: heat it up to 250 fahrenheit and then once it is more or less on the shaft,

use a mirror to get an idea of how far off the dowels the recesses are.

Use a longish piece of wood and a hammer to tap the balancer this way and that way in small increments until the dowels and the recesses line up. Turn the bolt a few turns, undo it and do a mirror check, bolt a few more turns and check, repeating a couple of times, and soon it will be perfectly lined up and seated.
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Old 05-29-2012, 01:11 PM
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PM sent
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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  #5  
Old 05-29-2012, 02:33 PM
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Gettin' outa chokey
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Between a rock and a hard place (Back in Holland at the moment)
Posts: 13,986
starrywhite sent me this via email...

...so you can all see how simple it really is.

Attached Thumbnails
diy balancer puller-p1120142.jpg  
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!

Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!
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