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  #31  
Old 01-06-2004, 02:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by csnow
Do not understand. Why would you not simply use the rubber jack pad points that MB provides?

In terms of 4 corners up: Totally safe, IMHO. So long as the stands are beefy enough, positioned properly, and on firm level ground. Do it all the time. Not sure what all the fuss is about. At 15 inches, it would take one hell of a lateral blow to tip the stands.

This is how one gets at things in the center of the car.

That's what I'm doing, all I really wanted to know was where to put the hydraulic jack. It obviously can't go on the rubber pads since that's where the jack stands have to go

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  #32  
Old 01-06-2004, 03:45 PM
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Oh. I guess responses got far afield on you. Well, on the front there is no problem, just use that beefy crossmember.

On the rear, I always used the diff, but now Larry's gone and made me nervous...
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  #33  
Old 01-06-2004, 04:10 PM
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"In terms of 4 corners up: Totally safe, IMHO. So long as the stands are beefy enough, positioned properly, and on firm level ground. Do it all the time. Not sure what all the fuss is about. At 15 inches, it would take one hell of a lateral blow to tip the stands."

I guess Mass. doesn't see much temblor activity. I've been thru a few doozies, and I will ALWAYS have a safety net between me and the chassis. There is no warning, no 'earthquake weather', and jack stands of any caliber or height don't stand a chance.

During the Sylmar quake, we had a '69 Impala and a '62 Bug in the driveway. They had shifted in tandem about 18" to one side, and the Bug's swing axles formed a vee from the wheels lifting clear off the ground.

Steve
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  #34  
Old 01-06-2004, 04:23 PM
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We have not had a dangerous quake here since 1755. You have to go with the odds in this life, though they say we are due...
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  #35  
Old 01-06-2004, 04:47 PM
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Firm level ground...

...does not include fresh, hot or loose asphalt. If i had to place a jack stand on asphalt of any age or temp, i'd put a plate down first. Look a motorcycle kickstand in the mall parking lot on a hot day. Give me concrete, or give me....a lift!!
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  #36  
Old 01-06-2004, 05:55 PM
rhgtara@localne
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get a hummer 16" clearance
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  #37  
Old 01-07-2004, 03:01 AM
glmoy
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The pads are designed for lifts. When you use a hydraulic floor jack on them you compress the pad too much and have to worry about the jack pad on the floor jack scratching the underside of your corosion protection on the underbody of the car. So, If you do use a floor jack here you must have a floor jack protector on its pad.
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  #38  
Old 01-07-2004, 10:15 AM
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Floor jack protector = block of wood. (works flawlessly!)

And I'm with Larry -- I never jack my MB from the differential. Why ask for trouble when there are other perfectly viable options for jacking the rear of the car? On the other hand, my Volvo 945 (Swedish truck) has a solid rear axle, and I always jack from the differential.

Jeff Pierce
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  #39  
Old 01-08-2004, 09:38 PM
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HEY BUD, IF YOU DON'T KNOW HOW TO JACK UP AND SUPPORT A VEHICLE SAFELY THEN MAYBE YOU SHOULDN'T BE PLAYING AUTO MECHANIC. THATS A 4K+ POUND MACHINE, NOT A TONKA TOY!
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  #40  
Old 01-08-2004, 10:51 PM
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Uhh, M.G.... To whom are you responding?

AND WHY ARE YOU SHOUTING???

jp
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Current Vehicles:
'92 Mercedes 190E/2.3 (247K miles/my daily driver)
'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon (263K miles/a family truckster with spunk)
'99 Kawasaki Concours
Gravely 8120
Previous Vehicles:
'85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (226K miles)'93 Volvo 940 Turbo Wagon
'53 Willys-Overland Pickup
'85 Honda 750F Interceptor
'93 Nissan Quest
'89 Toyota Camry Wagon
'89 Dodge Raider
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'88 Toyota Celica
'95 Toyota Tacoma
'74 Honda CB 550F
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  #41  
Old 01-09-2004, 02:53 PM
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I agree with Larry on not using the diff to lift, as it is only "hung" on the car and using it is like lifting the front by the oil pan. Engine and diff mounts aren't designed to withstand that type of force. I often just use 4 ramps to get the car level using wood in the saddle of 2 floor jacks at the jack points. If you then need to pull a wheel, you can rejack that jack point and support the car with a jackstand and the jack and with the wheel under that area as a fail-safe back-up. Went through this same analysis the first time I did this and decided that I will only get under a car on ramps and if I need to do work without a wheel on I would try to limit it to one wheel at a time if I have to actually go under the car using the procedure above.

Be safe.
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  #42  
Old 01-09-2004, 07:54 PM
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Alternatives

For times when i don't have to remove a tire (the original post was for a brake job) I have several 17" square pieces of LVL lumber that i either slide under the wheels once jacked or use a 2x8 to drive up on them. makes for a fairly solid surface on concrete, asphalt or smooth firm gravel.
A friend of mine has 2 railroad ties and drives up on those using gently sloped ramps made from a third one. Great for oil changes and other under-car work where access from the front or rear is all one needs.
Would love to one day have a hoist. Maybe if i hit the lotto....
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  #43  
Old 01-11-2004, 09:17 PM
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This weekend I jacked my car up using the front crossmember and the two rear suspension arms. I set it on four jack stands where the rubber mounts are located. Once on them the car did not budge a bit. All the work I needed to do was completed. Thanks for the advice everyone
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  #44  
Old 03-23-2009, 12:54 PM
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Safe car-jacking?
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  #45  
Old 03-23-2009, 12:54 PM
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Isn't that illegal most places?

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