I think the brakes are the weakest link of this car. I was chasing a '95 BMW M3. Not doind too bad until it came to stopping. I kept up with him for 2 roundabouts, but came to haul down from 120mph to 0mph (for the 3rd time in 2 mins), and *nothing*. Well... almost nothing. On closer inspection there was smoke pouring out of the front wheels.

Am I just expecting to much? Would ducting help? Are my pads crap? (Lucas). Vented disks? New fluid (current stuff is... ummm..brown)

Thanks,

Bri

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Brian Drought
1991 300CE
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~drought/
ICQ: 2180069

Sounds like maintenance time! DEFINITELY change over to an OE pad...they may produce a lot of soot, but they work great. While there, ensure there's enough rotor there; otherwise replace them too. OE OE OE is the only way to go with MBZ brakes, so that may account for at least some of your diminished performance. And change that fluid!! The moisture currently in your fluid is a brake failure waiting to happen, so I'd recommend sticking to a yearly change and you'll never have a problem

You already have vented discs in the front, BTW. As to a potential upgrade, you have several options like 400E binders. From there, the sky/wallet's the limit!!

Good luck amigo.

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Best regards, Michael
'92 500E
'88 300TE

Well... yeah. I think I'm going to save up and get front discs, all new pads (OE), new brake lines (steel braided) and some fresh fluid. Should do the trick.

Guesses about costs please? ;-)


Bri

Pads should run $60 US; rotors around $50 ea US; and wear sensors are $3 US each, and you need 4 of them. Lastly, I think braided front brake lines are in the neighborhood of $75-$100 US.



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Best regards, Michael
'92 500E
'88 300TE

Rear rotors are fine, but I think I may replace just for the heck of it while everything is off. Also my parking brake shoes rattle like a goodun.

Any views on vented disks? Are the OE ones vented?

I've been out in my buddys Subaru Impreza Turbo. Now *those* are awesome brakes. 100-0 in about the same time it takes to say this sentence. ;-)

I think feeling those stoppers has made me want to upgrade.

Bri


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Brian Drought
1991 300CE
http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~drought/
ICQ: 2180069

Brian:
I had pretty much the same experience as you - fading after playing hard on a twisty road. I asked about aftermarket drilled or grooved rotors. Seems there are reports of the drilled ones being brittle, and the grooved rotors making load noises. Lee suggested late model 400E rotors and calipers along with the braided lines, and I will be doing that in the not too distant future. Good luck.

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JCE
87 300E, 60k miles
Smoke Silver

please check this board/// scroll down a bit all of the 2.3-16 brake/ 500e brake discussion is relevant. 190e/300e/500e/500e brakes are all interchangable

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The only reason I recommend 400E brakes over 500E brakes is that the 400E brakes will fit under a 15" wheel while the 500E brakes require 16"ers. You could try the SL600 brakes but you will likely need 17" wheels then. In any case, stick with OEM until you max out what is in the corporate parts bin. From there you can go tuner and ever bigger (more expensive). I'm sure Brabus would be willing to hook you up with some carbon/carbon brakes (pads AND rotors) for an obscene price tag.

By what you describe your fluid needs flushing and probably front rotor/pad replacement. The rears are not as big a deal but while your the work... To get a quick price check of what those parts would cost you just go to PartsShop's "Fastlane" section. Just put in the year and model of your car and it will give you all of the common maintenance items. (part #'s, cost, etc) (f/r pads, f/r rotors, brake sensors, etc) BTW, The OE rotors are not grooved or drilled.

Hope this helps...Lee