Have a 92 300E w/ 16x7.5 wheels and 205/55/16 tires. If I go for the prokit (which lowers about 1-1.5") will I have any problem with rubbing on ANYTHING? I just don't want to buy them and then not have any use for some $350 springs, you know what I'm saying? Also, will I need a camber correction kit thingy?

You shouldn't have any problems with your set up. You may have problems if you decide to get 17 inches (you may have to roll the inside fenders). I don't think 16'' with 205/55's will create any problems.

You don't need a correction kit if you plan on dropping your car only 1 to 1 1/4 inches. However, you should get an alignment check.

Eric

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'00 E430 w/ Solaris H-7's
Brabus 19'' Monoblock V, 2 piece
H&R Sport Springs

'99 SLK230 Sport

jeneric,
i too am going to put a set of eibach prokit springs on my 89 300e, but i will be running on 17x8 anteras with 215/45 or 225/40...will this create any rubbing? any what is the lowest spring pad i can go with so that i can maximum lowering with no rubbing...i am not an aggressive driver so i wont be bottoming out the suspension often, if at all...the only concern i have is lowering too much with bump 1 spring pads and the front wheels wont be able to turn correctly when i steer, causing them to rub...thanks for the help...

ben

Edict,

Running 17'' on your MB may require fender rolling to avoid any possibility of rubbing when you hit potholes and bumps. Regardless of how you drive, you'll be surprised how much the suspension travels. I had my fenders rolled. Don't worry, just make sure you go a reputable wheel shop to have it done. My shop guaranteed against fender cracking and peeling. It came out perfect.

I current have a #2 bump in front and #1 bump in the rear. This gave me about a 1 1/2'' gap. Going to a #1 in front for your MB should be fine.

Eric

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'00 E430 w/ Solaris H-7's
Brabus 19'' Monoblock V, 2 piece
H&R Sport Springs

'99 SLK230 Sport

Even though I only have 16", would fender rolling still be a good safegaurd against anything? What kind of process is this (what exactly do they do when they 'roll your fenders'), how involved is it, and is it visible from the exterior of the car? Is it very costly? Thx

You should be fine with 16''. With any wheel, you can always install the wheels on the vehicle and check to see if it clears. That is, check to see if there is clearance between the inside fender and tire/rim when eye-balling it first and then when the suspension is fully compressed.

To check when fully compressed, simply clean the inside fender lip very well and drive around on a dry day. If you do not feel/see rubber marks on the fender or wear on the tires, you're okay. All you need is about a 1 to 2 mm gap.

There are basically two ways of rolling -- both involve heating the inner fender to make the metal more workable. One is a specific machine that has a rubber roller that pushes the inner lip of the fender closer to the inside of the outer fender. This is probably the safest.

The second way is to bang the inner fender with a plastic hammer after the metal has been heated up. Obviously, this is more risky.

Although the machine is the safest, it can sometimes crack the paint on the inner lip. Just make sure you go to a reputable place that has done many fender rolls. If the fender has been rolled correctly, there will be absolutely no visible marks from the exterior of the car. When you purchase the wheels, the shop should include the rolling for free, if needed. If you take it to a shop, expect to pay about $25 to $45 per fender. I hope this helps.

Eric


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'00 E430 w/ Solaris H-7's
Brabus 19'' Monoblock V, 2 piece
H&R Sport Springs

'99 SLK230 Sport

I already have my 16s on it now, I am just concerned about after lowering. Thx for the info.

If the wheel offset is correct you will not have any problem with the lowering. Do you know the offset of your wheels? I have lowered my 300E with 16X7.5 (ET35) without any problems.

I did a plus one from a OEM 1998 E430 16X7.5 with ET 41 with 215/55/16 tire to a Carlsson 1/6 17X7.5 with ET 30 and 235/45/17 from Tirerack. The same size AMG wheel has a ET 35.

My suspension bottoms/rubs on sharp dips in the road. I did not think I would have a problem, but it looks like I need to rolled the fenders.

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• 1998 MERCEDES-BENZ E430
  
• OBSIDIAN BLACK METALLIC/BLACK LEATHER
  
• XENON H.I.D. LOW BEAMS
  
• DEBADGED (E430 REAR)
  
• AMG CHROMED TIP DUAL EXHAUST
  
• CARLSSON 1/6 CHROME (PLUS 1) WHEELS
  
• SLK "WREATH" WHEEL CENTER CAPS
  
• ALPINE CHM-S611 CD CHANGER
  

Kevin,

I'm surprised that you're having problems with your setup. The 2000 E430s come with 17x7.5 with 235/45-17. However, I believe that the offset is 37 and not 35. That could be the difference.

Eric

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'00 E430 w/ Solaris H-7's
Brabus 19'' Monoblock V, 2 piece
H&R Sport Springs

'99 SLK230 Sport

What parts are involved with a sportline conversion, just springs? Is the sportline any better than the Eibach's or vise versa. The drop is between 1-1.5" with the prokit, what about the sportline? Are the sportline parts easily obtainable and are they more expensive than the ebach's? In your (anybodies) opinion what would be better?

Do you reccomend also getting the Eibach anti-roll bars?

What about shocks, I want something not too harsh. Should I stick with stock? BTW I'm using stock (1994 7-hole) rims for now, maybe 17's in the future.

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• Blizzak454 •
Atlanta GA, USA
1990 300E
1989 BMW 735i

quote:

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Originally posted by Blizzak454:
What parts are involved with a sportline conversion, just springs

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Go to the Featured Cars section of MercedesShop and look at the Sportline Page in the Special Features section.

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Bill Wood - Webmaster
MercedesShop.com, LLC

this is kind of a technical and multi-part question. What type of shocks does the sportline use? whats the thickness of the anti-roll bars, and are the bushings urethane (if not can they be ordered instead). Also it dosent look like the sportline really lowers the car that much - only .75 rear and .25 front. I only wish it lowered the car more

I should stop complaining though. I'm not going to ever hit the track, and it sounds like the sportline is just fine for agressive street driving. Or should I call GroundControl.....

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• Blizzak454 •
Atlanta GA, USA
1990 300E
1989 BMW 735i

Blizzak,
The Sportline parts will be of the highest possible quality, will preserve the ride you are used to, and will handle as well as anything out there short of a really hardcore setup. The Sportline kit has F/R shocks, F/R springs, F/R swaybars, all bushings, subframe mounts, etc. It is a total suspension conversion. Given its rarity when new the parts are not exactly easy to come by.

Search the shop forum for references to the Sportline conversion/suspension kit. Also check out the Sportline article. Some of your questions have been discussed before. Let me know if you have any questions after that.

Hope this helps...Lee

What is the part number of the subframe mount and the control arm bushing? Again, are they polyurethane? If not, does anyone know of any poly bushing and mount build for this car?


Harry