well. So far, everything is wired up, the lines are routed, and the only thing i have left to do is for the fuel. I will be getting a shrader valve hookup so that i can use the stock fuel test port as a fuel source. I will also be building a new intake. I wont be using the air box on top of the tb. It will be a single pipe to behind one of the openings i have where i took the fog lights out. The wiring was definately the hardest part as i also hoooked a nitrous pressure gauge and a/f gauge up right in front of my shift lever where the ashtray used to be. I have a single flip up activation switch right next to the light switch that turns the system on. I then made a bracket for the full throttle switch so that it turns on when i pull back on the turn signal/wiper lever. When i get my purge valve i will hopefully be wring it so that when i push in on the lever it will purge. Ill get pictures tonight of what i have done, but i cant wait to see how it works. Already have a run lined up for saturday night against an e36 m3. I will also have to get a window switch so that it will turn off automatically when right before it hits the stock rev liimiter. I will have to be very careful with it till then. If it hits the stock limiter while spraying it can mess up the car. This was my first time installing nitrous, and it did take me a while to get it all hooked up, but its been a great learning experience. Ill let you guys know how it goes when i get it hooked up

__________________
1993 400e
Charlotte

I know this is an old thread and most of you are objective to nitrous. But 90free400e had some very good questions regarding the install of a wet n2o kit.

Don't ever use a "dry" setup (for a single nozzle, nitrous only, no additional fuel) and proper bottle mounting and pressure is important as well.

Yes, use the fuel rail/line test port / schrader valve to inject the additional fuel. In fact, I would say this is the easiest way to do it. Try installing a wet kit on a car with no "test port" and splicing fuel lines....fun.

If you wanna be extra safe AND all for the speed, splice a fuel line and install an adjustable high performance fuel pressure regulator.

For a single nozzle kit, you need to install the nozzle in the intake BEFORE it gets to the throttle body. About a 8-12 inches before it hits the throttle body. This is important for proper atomization and equal distribution among cylinders.

Be sure to install the correct jets in the nozzle. Proper air / fuel ratio is VERY important. Be safe by always starting with a rich condition and work your way down to a leaner / optimal set up once your familiar with how the engine reacts, sounds, and what a good A/F meter tells you.

Speaking of a good air / fuel ratio meter: Do not be cheap to save money and buy a cheap meter. Buy your A/f ratio and EGT meters from a reputable company...don't be a cheap ass! To be on the safe side, install a second O2 sensor specifically for the meter. It's more accurate than splicing and tapping into a stock one.

Check your electrical wiring AND plumbing AT LEAST 3 times over!

Never spray for more than about 10 seconds continous, once properly tuned of course, you want your pistons not to have holes in them or your head to warp.

Be sure to retard the ignition timing about 2 degrees for 50hp and about 4 degrees for 75-100hp. ALWAYS run a high octane fuel. 93 or better here in the states.

Make sure that if it's activated by a full throttle switch attached to the throttle body, that it is SECURELY mounted. Use lock washers and nuts! I blew an intake manifold because the screws I mounted my home-made bracket vibrated loose, causing the switch to re-position itself and "lock" in full throttle mode, thus causing a "pooling" effect in my intake manifold and blowing it to bits! It's the little, over-looked things, that will bite you in the ass.

Last but not least...

Much of this is identical to installing a forced induction setup. Properly installed and setup, nitrous is no more harmful than a turbo / super charger.

Spending $300 - $600 on a wideband A/F meter seems sort of absurd but the other ones are not accurate and can be dangerous if you rely on them to give you actual numbers. Same goes for an EGT temp probe. The cheaps ones are next to useless.