And there is the issue where a stock converter drags the lockup clutches causing a stall when shifting into drive / reverse and torsional vibration in 5 th at ~ 35 MPH and 4 th around 25 MPH. My 97 C280 has this issue and less so in the 97 SL320.

Sprinters have this problem bid time due to them being a big tin can. Search for Sprinter RSN ( Rumble Strip Noise )

The converter clutch on these cars is modulated from 0 to 95 %, a dragging clutch increases lockup beyond what the controller was asking for. See Sonax brand for details on adding springs to release the TCC.


Also, I've read that lockup over 95 % will cause an overheat or loss of lube circuit flow. I'll see if I can find that info.

Wow,
I here about these kinds of issues but in my 17 years with Mercedes I have never seen what you are talking about other than the bad valeo radiators in some 2003-2004 cars for the vibration and a small handful of lock up solenoids for locking up when they were not supposed to. Maybe 5.
I have worked at mostly dealerships, including a Sprinter dealer.
As far as the reduced lubrication pressure, what happens is the cooling circuit pressure is reduced during lockup because it is not required. It happens any time the lock up is activated. I know have probably 100k combined on my two cars with standalone controls and the only converter issue I have had is when I tried to lock up a stock c230 compressor converter in 1st gear with 400+whp.

I need to correct the spelling, Sonax is Sonnax.

These first 4 links are the good ones
~~~~~~~
Mercedes 722.6: Cold Stall/TCC Shudder, Part 1 - Sonnax

Mercedes 722.6: Cold Stall/TCC Shudder, Part 2 - Sonnax

My MB E320 Sedan Story, a.k.a.

Clutch Release Kit - MB-CP-10K - Sonnax
~~~~~~

Lots of external links posted in this thread

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/357615-97-c280-driveline-vibration-light-throttle-1500-rpm-5th-lockup-tc.html


http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/tech-help/365676-98-mbz-shutter.html

Autostick Transmission vibration at low speeds - Page 2 - CrossfireForum.org

Sounds like the bad rads has restricted trans coolers causing early converter lockup?

I understand that people say this stuff. I am just saying that I have never seen one personally. And that includes at any dealership that I have worked at. Other than one time I had a seal that was bad that was mentioned in that sonnax article and it would lock up in 3rd gear. I am sure there are more out there. And a few bad lock up solenoids that would heat soak. But the 1st were seals that were updated in around the year 2000. Those cars are now pretty darn old and in need of replacement anyways if they still have the original transmission. There are a lot of other more pressing issues.
Sometimes there are adaptation issues that a simple reset and teach in of the adaptations resolves.

Anyway now we make our own high stall racing converter and I will test this first prototyp next week

https://scontent.xx.fbcdn.net/hphoto...46&oe=55E03756

Hey Pumpish,

What is the stall speed of aforementioned "high stall racing converter" please?

On facebook page i read that you have very good grip with MH drag radials 325/45-17. What is your 1/4 mile time with the drag radials?

sorry did have time to log in for months.
Stil updating facebook turbobandit.

Here is latest vid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Jx3wWcXJpew

Roman, what do you recommend for a daily driven 94 E320 M104 running 93 octane pump gasoline. Looking for power, but reliability and longevity and no opening of the engine.

Latest movie!
 

Mercedes Turbo Part 5!

https://youtu.be/_7Yo1_u9M9w

I recommend BIG TURBINA, (TB-90 "black death" fast as wind, perfik for everybody) stage 11 gearbox, stage 9 automatic transmission (with transbrake) HUGE diff and many bar boost with E85, EFI.

See my webshop this link;

Complete Turbo Kit Stage 2 - 350-900HP

Bring car, I do for you.

This way you need not be on street for long on trip. (WARNING - do NOT run more than 4.5 bar boostpressure until you have viewed ALL TURBOBANDIT youtube educational/information videos and have perfected all of the techniques applied to street cars)

Love, ROMAN.

That's more than I want to get involved with work and money wise. Trying to do this with all stock motor...not having to do any internal engine work or internal parts swapping.

Seriously XJguy, you might start by reading from the start of this topic.

It's long, but interesting and educational...

Just aim to do 5 pages a day. you'll be right back here in less than a week.

with 93 oktan and astock compression you should not run higher then 0.8 bar. 400-500hp
Maybe 1 bar with knock sensings controll.
Bu lowe compression you can easy run realiable 600-700hp