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  #1  
Old 06-24-2007, 03:52 AM
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How to install 400hp 16 valve engine *writeup with pics*

1. remove original engine/trans
2. remove steering box and linkage
3. cut out crossmember and make holes in trans tunnel
4. mount steering rack on new cross member


5. see if it fits




6. patch up the trans tunnel.


7. cut rear lower control arm pivots and patch them up(for extra exhaust clearance)
8. add crossmember to framerail supports


9. add some seamsealer and undercoating

more to come...

Last edited by Gen3Benz; 06-24-2007 at 07:50 PM.
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  #2  
Old 06-24-2007, 10:19 AM
Texholdem
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas
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Wow, this job is way beyond my DIY capability or even imagination. Hat off!
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  #3  
Old 06-24-2007, 11:34 AM
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benzbonz
 
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Location: Cleveland, Ohio
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I would add a little more support toward the rear of the engine mount. 400HP is a lot of torque on the sheet metal frame,,, but I've never done anything like that and am no mechanical engineer,,,

what chassis is that anyway?
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  #4  
Old 06-24-2007, 01:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
I would add a little more support toward the rear of the engine mount. 400HP is a lot of torque on the sheet metal frame,,, but I've never done anything like that and am no mechanical engineer,,,

what chassis is that anyway?
Chassis is W201
Engine mount "pedestals" are sitting on 3/16 steel bent to the contour of the original crossmember.
I plan on making another crossmember on the bottom going between control arm pivots, also a strut tower brace.

Rear subframe is another story, might just make aluminum bushings or solid mount. Anyone seen a solid mounted w201 rear subframe?
Need to beef up the 4 torque loaded link mounting points with gussets.
Most likely getting an '03 ford explorer aluminum 8.8
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  #5  
Old 06-24-2007, 07:40 PM
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benzbonz
 
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I understand that the pedestals might be strong enough, but all the torque is being applied to the two area's circled,,,
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How to install 400hp 16 valve engine *writeup with pics*-ls1front_low.jpg  
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  #6  
Old 06-24-2007, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
I understand that the pedestals might be strong enough, but all the torque is being applied to the two area's circled,,,
Alot of people are dropping LS1's into 240 and 280 z nissans and running 12 second quarter mile times.
Nissan framerails and subframes are pretty chinsy, but they dont seem to have any problems.
Time will tell I guess.
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  #7  
Old 06-24-2007, 08:52 PM
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benzbonz
 
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Like I said, I'm by no means an engineer or fabricator, btu the 201's are sooo light, I'd rather put something big like that into a 124, atleast MB did so you know that the sheetmetal is think enough.

Best of luck, hope it works out good for you
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  #8  
Old 06-25-2007, 01:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
Like I said, I'm by no means an engineer or fabricator, btu the 201's are sooo light, I'd rather put something big like that into a 124, atleast MB did so you know that the sheetmetal is think enough.

Best of luck, hope it works out good for you
Twin turbo small block chevy 190e.....600+ ponies 600+ torque, made in swedan
running FACTORY diff no less(no traction with 315's)


LT4 chevy small block 190e....made in california

Both of these cars are running factory crossmember's, no roll cages, and they still drive straight.
However mine is significantly stronger due to the boxed tubing and braces to the frame rails.
Ill just make sure I have a chassis builder down the street from my shop give me the thumbs up, then ill be good to go.

p.s.........to hell with 124's IMO

Last edited by Gen3Benz; 06-25-2007 at 01:19 AM.
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  #9  
Old 08-26-2007, 08:27 PM
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11. mount 26X19 radiator on new lower support, welded 5/8 tube to bottom of radiator....fits into stock 190 grommets




12. mount powertrain control module(PCM) in new mount



13. mount powertrain fusebox on modified ABS bracket


14. finish painting underhood

Last edited by Gen3Benz; 08-29-2007 at 04:49 PM.
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  #10  
Old 08-27-2007, 06:39 AM
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Wow! Shoehorned pretty nicely! A classy job!

Any worries about underhood temps? Exhaust manifolds don't have much breathing room...are you planning on using any heat shields?
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  #11  
Old 08-27-2007, 09:37 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G-Benz View Post
Wow! Shoehorned pretty nicely! A classy job!

Any worries about underhood temps? Exhaust manifolds don't have much breathing room...are you planning on using any heat shields?
Manifolds have factory bolt-on heatshields, I might just get the jet-hot coated.
Downpipes will be covered with header wrap to save my paint.

Last edited by Gen3Benz; 08-27-2007 at 10:12 AM.
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  #12  
Old 08-29-2007, 11:39 AM
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Uh ohhhh...
Looks like somebody needs to be taking some flying lessons!

Nice!

Hope that, one day, I will have enough time, to drop my M119/6spGetrag which is staring at me the last 8 months in my w201.....
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  #13  
Old 08-29-2007, 11:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mespe View Post
Like I said, I'm by no means an engineer or fabricator, btu the 201's are sooo light, I'd rather put something big like that into a 124, atleast MB did so you know that the sheetmetal is think enough.
clearly you have never driven or felt a french car; just sneeze, and you can go on your way to have a dent removed

W201 in comparisson is a tank, and I can know. To much experience with french crap. Welding on ANY benz, is a joy compared to that.
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  #14  
Old 08-29-2007, 12:44 PM
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What kind of radiator are you using? I'd be interested in getting a copy of that for my 117 V8 swap underway....

Reiner: did you ever get the 6-spd box fully adapted to your m119? I think last time I checked you had just gotten the adapter plate to bolt up....I'd love to see any progress that you have made!
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  #15  
Old 08-29-2007, 04:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FLYNAVY View Post
What kind of radiator are you using? I'd be interested in getting a copy of that for my 117 V8 swap underway....
got it from ebay.
http://stores.ebay.com/RaceMart-Direct_Radiators-Cooling_W0QQcolZ2QQdirZQ2d1QQfsubZ8QQftidZ2QQtZkm
If you call the guy, he can make the radiator how you want it.
single/double pass...inlet/outlet locations.....with or without radiator cap neck....pipe thread bung for vent tube.

They pretty much just weld alum tanks to existing cores...welds look nice.

This radiator was $223 shipped....no filler neck...pipe bung for vent line to expansion tank.
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