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W201 2.6 Lowering Project
Hello guys,
I'm installing my lowering springs with Bilstein Sport shocks and struts. The old links in the back were so rusted that I've had to resort to cutting them off (where they attach to the subframe). The hub carrier bolts have been in great shape. The problem I've had has been those rear 'track rods'. They have ball joints which attach to the hub carrier and seem incredibly difficult to cut off. I've resorted to using a cut-off wheel to take the first side off. I had to drill out the remains of the balljoint in the bolt hole in the hub carrier, nearly ruining it. Can someone offer advice on an easier alternative? I've tried wailing on the ball joint with a pickle fork tool and it didn't get me anywhere. Tips or tricks would be greatly appreciated. Mike
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1989 300CE - 269,000 km 1994 SL600 - 59,000 km Last edited by SHYNE; 08-26-2007 at 08:52 PM. |
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I went ahead and drilled out the balljoint on the other track rod. I used three different sized bits and finished up with a 25/64" so the new joint would fit in snug.
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1989 300CE - 269,000 km 1994 SL600 - 59,000 km |
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Cutting the springs is the worst way to lower a car. It is dangerous to you and others on the road.
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#4
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Where exactly in his post did he mention he intended to cut his springs? To the OP, my pneumatic hammer fork works well to free frozen joints. Trust you’ve already gotten it back together. Looking forward to seeing your results…
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Are you going to use adjustable cambers arms or a kmac kit for the rear?
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
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Okay so I've finished the car. I ended up breaking the left rear brake line getting all the links into the back. I NEVER even bothered with spring compressors in the front or the back. That's what I said. All these stories I hear about springs flying out are either a) complete lies or b) a consequence of ham-fisted idiocy. Take your time, think about what you're doing and if you don't know DON'T do it. I took off the caliper, the tie rod assembly (complete), front anti-roll bar bushings (sway bar whatever you'd like to call it) and then the strut and spring (with a 3 tonne jack under the lower control arm). If the springs have never been touched, they are not going to fly out and kill you. I cracked those 22mm lower control arm slug bolts (with the 3 tonne jack still under the arm) and then slowly lowered the control arm down to the floor. The spring was completely unloaded and popped out quite safely. The back end is still up a little bit, it needs to settle a bit more (I went with #1 pads in the front and #2 in the back - I'll keep you guys updated on how the car settles). I regret not ordering a completely new tie-rod assembly. I will now be upgrading to 16-valve sway bars and then install a new tie-rod assembly at the same time. My disease has gotten much worse. I'm trying to justify a 5-speed gearbox and 16" Evolution I wheels. But God it drives nicely now. Bilsteins are worth every penny.
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1989 300CE - 269,000 km 1994 SL600 - 59,000 km |
#7
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Quote:
I'm considering buying a Triumph Speed Triple to address my speed needs.
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1989 300CE - 269,000 km 1994 SL600 - 59,000 km |
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Current: 05 E320 CDI 07 GL320 CDI 08 Sprinter 05 Dodge Cummins 01 Dodge Cummins Previous 2004 E55 AMG 2002 C32 AMG (#2) 1995 E300 1978 300D 1987 300D 2002 C32 AMG(blown motor :[ 1981 300SD 1983 300SD 1987 300SDL 2002 Jetta TDI 1996 S420 1995 S500 1993 190E 2.6 1992 190E 2.3 1985 190E 2.3 5-Speed |
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