the next step for turbo technics tune

[nick.ged]

a few of the guys have asked me to keep them informed of my developments in my evolution of the turbo technics system, so i will start a thread insted of jumping around others.

[nick.ged]

so firstly, orlatan, you have the "best" combination as far as potential engine breathing is concerned, bigest displacement and 24v ect, but roman recons the 104 valve train is not as strong as the 103, so you are going to be the test bed for your set up. i cant see why you shouldnt be able to get 600+ very easy

as far as getting max power, what have you got regards fuel and spark control at the present time? with std control you will be pushed to get "big" numbers. the standalone is the biggest "jump" you will ever make. i would not use megasquirt again if i was to do another, it works well, but it is so hard to get propper support, the guys on the ms fourum all seem to be reluctent to show electronics newbies step by step help, they tell you to "go read the manual", wich has the information scatterd all over the place. but for ant others using ms1 extra, i can give msq's if required.

a guy called maggot told me a while back he is using emerald standalone and the people fitting it will set it all up for him, not sure about cost though, ms is cheeper than the others, its just so fustrating.

i have seen a few on hear that are persavering with std merc and extra injectors, and that is FINE if like ed you are not trying to increse the power over say 350, bare in mind that the mosselman/tt on 12v 103 only made around 300-320 and ed has around 350 just with modern efi control over his extra injectors, and sorting the air passage into the turbos so i am not saying the original control is crap, far from it,if it is optimised and 350 is ok with the owner, the original is brill.

[Ortolan]

I'm using a Microtech LT-10 ECU. Fully standalone fuel & spark control. I'll need to retune once I've swapped the original T2 turbos for larger units. Leaning towards GT28RS Disco Potato based on positive reviews. My 3.5L engine can not breathe well with the current T2 units, no revving past 5k rpm.
The current tune is very rich to protect the engine. Still making around 400 crank hp at 14psi. 500 crank hp should be no problem at all with the larger turbos an retune.

I'm more concerned about what will break once I step up the power. I think you already mentioned that you have snapped driveshafts and flexdiscs. I have the same 12v base model as you so if your stock parts are failing, chances are mine will too. I am planning to upgrade my transmission to the 722.6 but may need to upgrade everything else back too.

[Joreto]

Any idea at around what HP/TQ do the stock parts start failing (shafts, flexdisk ect. ) ? I'm currently running the m103 @ 0.9 bars on a t3/t4 , don't know what power I'm making but for the moment I would like to keep it under the point where the stock rear end parts start to give up.

[nick.ged]

i noticed that with the manual dogleg box, i was getting judder from the front flex disc whilst reversing, no matter how easy i was with the gas peddal, i have a twin paddel manual clutch, wich is very harsh, it is like a swich, either on or off, so i have difficulty just pulling away, i have the choice of either stalling, or having to smoke the rear end.

the answer to the rear end problems is, i think, to use a r129 500 diff and have the driveshafts and tail piece of the propshaft modded to fit the 124 chassis, but it aint a cheep and easy fix!

mabe the easyest would be 124 e500e parts, but they are a bit harder to find than chickens teeth!

as far as std flexis, i recon if care is taken at pull offs ect, especialy with auto tranny, they should last quite a while, and a few spares could be sorced for swaps when needed.

as far as power from 103 with t3/t4, i suppose the turbo technics numbers should be your first target as stated above standalone will allow most power to be got from any setup

the 104 is basically a 103 with 24v head, and that is the theoretical weak spot, and revs will be the limiting thing i recon, i read a piece about bhp is only a theoretical calculated number, something about lifting a gallon of water 1 yard on a two foot spindle and torque is the actual measure of power, and the same torque at higher revs gives more bhp, you may or may not have trouble with your piston rings also, but again assuming no det and reasonable rev limit, you should be ok.

[Joreto]

I'm using a 16v (dogleg) box in my car with a modified pressure plate and so far I don't have any problems at all.

[nick.ged]

agreed you wont get problems like mine, i have twin paddle racing type clutch with no springs, so it is very harsh, like a switch on or off. you probably art making enough power to trouble the flex disks, especially if you art doing full power take offs on a regular basis.

[Mike D]

Nick, what did you ever do about the toothed wheel you were installing on the 230.4? I keep looking for you over on the MS forum.

[nick.ged]

fitted 32/1 toothed wheel to replace the weight on the front pulley (this alone gives more power and more free revving engine, it is like skimming the flywheel) , used vr sensor 9 teeth before tdc and away she went, i think the join in the shielded wire was causing me a problem, i ditched the phono plug, and joined the inner wire with solder, insulated it and then over braided to keep the shielding
hows your build going?

[Mike D]

The build on the M115 is done. Just looking to convert to wasted spark on it.

I'm working on the M117 conversion now. It looks to be a simple one whenever I find the time, which of course, is always the hard part doing these hobbies.