PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/)
-   Mercedes-Benz Performance Paddock (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-performance-paddock/)
-   -   W123 280 ce m110 engine mods (http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/mercedes-benz-performance-paddock/229788-w123-280-ce-m110-engine-mods.html)

JayRash 08-07-2008 03:58 AM

W123 280 ce m110 engine mods
 
I have a 1981 w123 M110 280CE and I would like to share some performance mods with u guys, case anyone feels like trying them.
A few years back when this was my daily driver I needed to increase the engine’s top end pull, the M110 is a powerful unit considering it small capacity of 2.8L and since my car had rear end ratio of 3.58 I was in real need of top end revs.
So I ordered the offset cam pins from the dealer, those pins come in 2deg, 4 deg, and 5 deg offsets and they connect the cam gears to the cam.
Usually they r used when work is done on the head to reset the timing chain to specs, but in my case purpose was to shift the power band.
First attempt: I advanced both intake and exhaust cams by 4 degs, and boy did I get low end torque ok I lost even more top end as now revs hardly moved beyond 5800, but the low end was tremendous
I mean and I am sure of this, that any one will be stunned by the torque from 1000 to 4500 rpm range, flooring it in 3rd mid corner gives one big drift. First became almost useless as most of was spin.
Unfortunately it turned out that the small autobox on the w123 can’t handle all that torque, I broke a gearbox every 10 days, I swear I went thru three boxes in one month. In the end I had to change the setup. After all even with new internals the gearbox wouldn’t last more than 10 days.
Attempt 2: I retarded both cams by 4 deg. Now I had zero low down, I mean below 3000 u need to shift into first to see any movement, by 4500 u feel some power but at 5500 it feels like a turbo has kicked in and the power keeps coming all the way to 7400 (my cut out). Fromm 5500 on the engine is so smooth and so powerful, u don’t get spin as its HP and not torque but when overtaking cars once u go past 5500 u would think cars have braked as u don’t feel the push but see ur self moving a lot faster than the cars around u.
I know most of u would think I am exaggerating, but tell me how many m110 w123s u know of that can keep revving all the way to 7300 in fourth and clocking 235km/h?????
I remember I once raced a w124 320 E from 150km/h on to max, we were equal from 150 to 170, then from there I pulled with ease all the way to my top speed of 230km/h.


in the end though, top end ended costing me lots of fuel as u always had to kick down to have the car moving, so i switched to a 2 degs retard setup, it was ok but not that gr8.
Also my engine had taken a beating with all that over reving from the original redline 6500 to my new 7400. oil consumption increased drastically in the end, and the fact that i ran the car with no filter during winter months didn’t help at all.

JMURiz 08-07-2008 11:10 AM

Interesting stuff, so you'd probably say that leaving it at 0 would be the best compromise for longevity and performance across the entire rev-range?

I'm looking at rebuilding a euro-spec M110 and am thinking about EFI and crank-fire ignition. I'm sure it will take a lot of time and money but should be a fun family cruiser in my 280C.

JayRash 08-07-2008 12:31 PM

well try the 2 deg retard for slightly higher rev band. Will give power up to 6500. Or 2 advance for better torque but u might lose pwr above 6k

79Mercy 08-07-2008 01:01 PM

my little M110 would be alot faster if it would kickdown above 40MPH. If I floor it at 40 it is pretty fast all the way up to 60. If I floor it at 41mph then it is very slow.

vipercrazy 09-15-2008 07:13 PM

with an automatic why even retard your timing youll only hit those high revs in 4th

your insane, but im sure your the expert at swapping gearbox's.

the poor guy that ends up with that car...

JayRash 09-16-2008 01:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipercrazy (Post 1965621)
with an automatic why even retard your timing youll only hit those high revs in 4th

your insane, but im sure your the expert at swapping gearbox's.

the poor guy that ends up with that car...

Man my gear box holds first on kickdown up to 5500 RPM
and second and third all the way to 7200 RPM (full throttle)
so that wasn't an issue,:P car was gr8 thou had a complete rebuild to the suspension with sport springs and dampers, very short diff. car was gr8

vipercrazy 09-16-2008 08:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JayRash (Post 1965968)
Man my gear box holds first on kickdown up to 5500 RPM
and second and third all the way to 7200 RPM (full throttle)
so that wasn't an issue,:P car was gr8 thou had a complete rebuild to the suspension with sport springs and dampers, very short diff. car was gr8

unless you have some evidence on how you did that im in total disbelief of your entire story, thats atleast 2000 extra rpm, not a slight adjustment for a trans. maybe your tach was off.

JayRash 09-17-2008 02:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vipercrazy (Post 1966757)
unless you have some evidence on how you did that im in total disbelief of your entire story, thats atleast 2000 extra rpm, not a slight adjustment for a trans. maybe your tach was off.

Man i wish i had one of those camera phones back then, any way you can adjust any auto box to shift at higher RPMs. first tighten the kick down cable to max so ur car will hit its original RPM, my merc was at 6500RPM and except for first it used to reach that RPM in the rest. I even had to bend the metal bracket of the throttle mechanism. Then u have to take out the valve body from the auto box and adjust the pressure of the speed governor. that will give u the extra rpm range needed. and i have seen it done on a C36 too, and my 300 now shifts at 6600 (used to be 6200) in all gears but first which is a bit lower at 5800 rpm.

Oh, or u can skip all that and just use the lever to hold the gear for as long as you want, simple and makes the car semi auto :)

79Mercy 09-17-2008 08:39 AM

poor ol M110. How many transmissions you gone through?

jmechanics 02-12-2009 06:08 PM

Do both cams need to be advanced or retarded at the same degree? Is it possible to play with each individually and what advantage or disadvantage would that have on engine performance.

panZZer 02-12-2009 06:59 PM

euro efi
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by JMURiz (Post 1932761)
Interesting stuff, so you'd probably say that leaving it at 0 would be the best compromise for longevity and performance across the entire rev-range?

I'm looking at rebuilding a euro-spec M110 and am thinking about EFI and crank-fire ignition. I'm sure it will take a lot of time and money but should be a fun family cruiser in my 280C.

Hi i got a complete 84 280 setup for $250.00

panZZer 02-12-2009 07:02 PM

also good tranz
 
Quote:

Originally Posted by 79Mercy (Post 1967140)
poor ol M110. How many transmissions you gone through?

Hi, I have a GREAT shifting tranz from a 84 euro 280ce for $400.00 plus shipping

79Mercy 02-12-2009 07:05 PM

don't need one

JayRash 02-13-2009 01:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jmechanics (Post 2108614)
Do both cams need to be advanced or retarded at the same degree? Is it possible to play with each individually and what advantage or disadvantage would that have on engine performance.

Ya for sure you can play around as you wish, but in that case try 2 deg on each cam first, cause when i tried the 4 deg one advancing one and retarding the other (cant recall the exact for each cam ) i ended up with a very very very low down torque engine that cant rev beyond 4800 and i mean it cant, it felt like i hit a limiter.


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:14 AM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.0
Copyright 2024 Pelican Parts, LLC - Posts may be archived for display on the Peach Parts or Pelican Parts Website