Crank Sensor questions on e320
 

Im currently wiring a AEM Fuel/Ignition Controller because im fed up with the SAFC's lack of tuning capability at low boost(cant turn down the injectors). The wiring diagram has specific wires that attach to the VR crank sensor wires and it asks for the postive and negative crank wires but my mercedes diagram marks them differently. The car does have a VR crank sensor but its marked "high side" and "low side" wires. Am I to assume the "high side" is the positive wire and the "low side" is the negative?


EDIT:
Only one cam sensor right?

please fill us in on the tuning capabilities of this aem ecu? sounds the go to me,
i am also using a piggyback greedy emanage which i beleive is similar to your apexi, but i want better, so i hope you do a write up when u get this to work!

im sorry i cant really give you any advice on the crank pickup as i dont know,
but when i made my flywheel it had to have three segments and a magnet, anf i beleive it used the segments as pickups every 120 degrees?

mite need to run an osoloscope over the sensor and see what signals it fires out

Hey c280nz what size feed oil line are you using and where did you draw power from for your greddy emanage? I got it all hooked up except for the power and three ground wires

i cant recal what size oil line i got, i just went into my local hydrolic shop and said i need a turbo oil line to the young fella in there and he said he knew which size would be sweet, i think it mite of been 3/8" but dont quote me on that,
i got my power from looking under the hood the right had side of the engine bay above the wheel well theres a little bkack box with a cross on the top of it with 3 large wires coming out, if you test them i beleive two are ignition on power and the other one is constant power,
i got all my power from here including the power for my wideband.
http://i36.tinypic.com/35meh02.jpg
i just had a look at ur pics, and in my car it would have come from about smack bang in the middle of this pic, but your car seems to be different layout from myne, my fuse box is even on the other side,
its not in that little box in front of the fuse box is it?

let me know how you get on with your aem! fingers crossed for you to get it working and get some ignition timing and injector control!
paaaa ece

Yeah that big black box is the fuse box, that little one is for the air conditioning i think. I got the AEM working though. I found the three big red wires and just guessed and got it right.

Heres the computer display, timing control and injector control is perfect. It can add, subtract, and compensate for bigger/smaller injectors with ease.

http://i34.tinypic.com/2z7iovs.jpg

so you have it wired into your timing control and injector control?
at present i only am controlling the maf voltage using rpm and tps as the variables,
how did you wire in the timing and injectors? cos my greedy has these features

edit;
i just read up on your aem unit and it sounds way better than my greedy, im seriously debating ditching my greddy and buying oneof these units,
let me know over the comming weeks how the unit goes,
and if your happy with it, and happy to give me a few wiring pointers i mite have to change:)

I would be interested in the answer to the original crank sensor question :)

I have built a lot of aftermarket turbo cars in the past and SA/Aftermarket management is normally the route I would chose. However with the EFI throttle body, Cam phasing and variable inlet etc I decided it was probably best to stick to a piggy back on the original EFi

I am also considering using the AEM to fire the 2 additional injectors that I got with the turbo technics kit in a custom TB adapter, but if I can get full control of the stock system then the Mustang injectors look like the way to go.

Mark

Mark, its like I thought the VR sensor is positive on the high side and negative on the low side.

Many thanks for that

A list of the settings used would be great - although I am sure I can figure them out if necessary :)


Thanks

Mark

My car a super *****y OBDII engine that hates its closed loop being modified so its hard as hell but english cars didnt adopt OBDII until 2000 right? Find someone with a mercedes diagnostic computer and adjust the fuel trims reading off that for the closed loop settings and see if you can dig up when the car switches from closed to open loop. Im pretty sure its based off the throttle position.

I was told that if the fuel trims are bouncing around on the scanner then the closed loop is out of wack and you need to +/- fuel. You have to get them in a healthy constant and it will take a while.

I have a pair of LC1 widebands that I intend fitting to the 2 frontpipes

I am very used to closed loop tuning so that shouldtn be too much of a problem. The issue for me is not the mapping as that comes as second nature these days - its the sheer unfamiliarity with the 3.2 engine bay and HFM management :)

For me its the opposite, I am very familiar with the engine but I dont know jack about tuning. My closed loop still needs lots of work.

i just had another tuning go 2nite,
i need to get bigger injectors, the 310cc with the 5bar just isnt giving me enough fuel, i am thinking about 350cc and going back to the 4 bar fpr,
yea geting the idle and mid throttle closed loop is time consuming, but getting it right,'but i cant get enough fuel wide open at 6psi around 5k rpm.

what airflow meter are you using e320, and does it max out a 5v during use, myne maxes out at around 5k rpm.

i like ur style mark runnin 2 widebands :-)

Have not been here for a while but better late then never.

M104 crank sensor has 3 plates with a 120 deg between them.
You can use then but then you must use cam sensor too and then find iyt the trigger angle by stroblamp.

Only new M104 e280and e320 can use stock crank sensor and flywheel becaurse the plates are billet and the old m104 has welded plates and the ignition timing would not be correctly by using EFI

/\ Yeah my car has the last year of the m104 in it with FI so its all good, I got it working.

Im acutally using the stock meter for the closed loop, then clamping it when the open loop starts. Its pretty easy to figure out and you dont have to hassle with the meter maxing out since it gets locked at a certain voltage and bypassed.