The M111 is the 4-cylinder, correct ?

Will the manual and automatic trannys for a M111 be strong enough for 300+ ft-lbs. of torque ?

:-) neil

I would not know. You would have to look up the torque rating.
Besides there are just not very many in the U.S. I have only seen a may be 5 or six total in 10 years at the dealerships.
They are shorter than the automatic and would require a new driveshaft most likely.
If I was going to go with a stick shift I would look for the old getrag boxes from europe or elsewhere. Look at the power that Roman is getting down through his.
The 722.6 is a great transmission. I am using the small nag, lower torque rating in mine and have no problems. It could easily handle a lot more torque with the addition of some more clutches and steels. If you want to go with big torque you could go with the larger nag trans. The only problem with the larger nag is that it does not have as good of 1st and 2nd gear ratios. But if your making enough power to need it, it would not matter.
Then if you are going even bigger IPT transmissions makes a bullet proof transmission for about 4000.
They say they have their transmission behind some turbo srt-8 drag cars. 800+ lbft of torque.
I plan on using the small nag untill it blows. Then switching to a fully built unit or go with the large nag.
My opinion is that the main difference between the two in power handling is the number of clutches. I have not seen any shaft size difference, or gear size difference to suggest it could not take it.
This was the same with the 722.3 trans. It was simply the same transmission in all cars with more or less frictions in the k1 and k2.

Damn

I had the M120/722.6 side by side with the M117/722.3. I never even thought to check. The shifter bolts right in place with absolutely no modifications. Shortening the shift rod is easy. I just cut mine and slipped a snug fitting piece of tube over it. What about drive shaft length. Will that have to be shortened. I happened to luck out and the stock drive shaft worked with the new engine trans combo.

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The 722.6 is is about the same size. The one I used was less than and inch longer. I would be pretty sure that this would be accross the board, since both transmissions are very similiar in different applications. It will be in the bellhousing that the difference shows up in length. The rear case is the same.

New dyno results with 722.6 5speed. The low power run is camshaft off.
Camshaft adv. seems to be good for almost 50 wheel hp.

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Nice numbers! I figured variable cam geometry was handy but not That handy!

Jonathan

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hey whipplem104,
can you post up some more info about car setup during dyno run?
what boost are you running etc?
and did u plot the air/fuel, or ignition curve for the run?

I am running 9lbs of boost. My air/fuel is really rich to be on the safe side. I did not monitor during the run but it is always in the 11.5:1 area. My timing is also on the safe side at 15 degrees. All runs were done in 4th gear and torque converter lock up on. Torque converter lock up is good for atleast 10 whp. I did one pull at the beginning to see. I did not print it.

so theres still alot in her then with more tuning,
but that is good power for a safe tune!
u aiming for more?

that is the sort of power and tune im aiming for,
safe but with good numbers, but i dont have to worry about a torque converter

Do not worry about the drive train. There would be a little more on pump gas.
I would not think very much. On race gas or alcohol there is probably around 40-50 hp with some more timing.
I am planning on dropping the compression and adding boost and timing. I am shooting for over 500 flywheel horsepower. It has been done before.

I currently own a 190E with an M104 3.2 conversion done (/94 donor car), mated to a 16V Getrag 5 speed manual, along with the stock pressure plate from the Getrag 5 speed. The conversion was done using a custom 6 puck race clutch. The PO who did the conversion is not available to me to talk to. There are a coupe of problems with this...

1) the shifts are pretty harsh..either grab and peel or rev light and stall.

2) I am getting a fault code which indicates magnet missing on the cps....currently the car appears to be operating with stock 3.2 wiring/throttle controls. My suspicion is that the PO who created this, may have used the flywheel from a 16V motor (we are getting a code saying magnet missing on CPS), which may effectively be a "lightened flywheel" (relative to a 3.2), and thus not equipped with a magnet. I suspect the engine control is just using the cam sensor to make the car run. However not having all the data from the conversion makes the analyses a bit tricky.

3) due to the nature of the beast, the car is not too "daily driver" friendly so I was planning to replace the clutch plate/pressure plate/throwout bearing with parts from a 3.2 standard. This however will not solve my missing magnet code. Would you know where to find a suitable flywheel? Or could a magnet be added to the 16V flywheel if indeed that is what I am running?

I am not 100% on this, but I think you are correct about the magnet. I am surprised it runs at all. There should be 3 on the m104 and two on the m102. It not only needs to have another but in different time. Other than getting the flywheel from a stock stick shift motor, you could have one made. Or you could just go stand alone injection.

hey mde3,
the stock m104 flywheels in the 94 spec models use three "segments" at 120 degrees
cut into the outside of the flywheel and 1 magnet,
the car will run without the magnet but not without the segments is my understanding,
if you get a stock m104 flywheel it will have the magnet and the segments already, but what you should probebly do it get it independantly balanced before you bolt it on,
from the factory they ballance the flywheel and crank as one unit, but since you cannot do this, just do the flywheel,
puck clutches are renowned for on/off nature, get a full face clutch,

this picture shows my old stock flywheel, i had a light weight one made,
you can see the 3 segments on the outside, and the magnet has been removed but you can see the small hole on one of the segments where it has been removed from, at approximatly the 9 oclock possition on this picture

I started the new intake. Here are some pictures of the flange and the runners I made. Going same size runners as before but no tapper at the end and I am going to port the head to match.

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more pictures

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