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  #1  
Old 11-30-2008, 08:16 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: New Zealand
Posts: 160
Smile Alignment on W124 2.8 300E

Had lowering springs put in and had my car aligned. Obviously there are issues.

I'm getting a Kmac kit for the back to take the Camber from 3 Left and 2.5 Right down to around 1 - 1.5. But still, I can't note any bad wear after 1000km.

The front is running at 1.6 left and 1.2 right. Apparently the tire guy can't adjust this out.

My question is - should the back and front run at the same camber or should I get the front kit, to get the front back into spec.

My Alignment specs are as below:


Front Left

-1.6 Camber (out of spec)
10.7 Caster (out of spec)
2.6 mm Toe (in spec)

Front Right

-1.2 Camber (out of spec)
11.1 Caster (out of spec)
2.3 Toe (in spec)

Cross camber -.31 (in spec)
Cross caster -.20 (in spec)
Total toe 4.9mm (in spec)


Rear left

Camber - 3.07
Toe 2.4 mm (in spec)

Rear Right

Camber -2.61
Toe 2.6mm (in spec)

Total toe 5mm (in spec)
Thrust Agle -.01 (in spec)

Any feed back would be helpful
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  #2  
Old 12-23-2008, 04:43 PM
JayRash's Avatar
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Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Beirut, Lebanon
Posts: 1,278
imho i say ur front caster is good, camber is just abt the limit as anything more and u'lll lose braking. 1.2 - 1.3 is fine
cant say much abt front toe
now the rear is all over the place, u need to drop ur camber back to less than 2, as u r now ur losing alot of rear end grip, as for toe well i run 0.5 in in either side with a total at abt 1 in.
i like the rear to be loose on braking for corner entry,
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-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
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  #3  
Old 02-19-2009, 01:53 PM
Syntax26
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wellsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 54
Kmac Kit?

Can you tell me more about this Kmac kit you mention?

I have '95 E420E (w124) - I did home a home-garage conversion/drop: H&R Springs all around, 500 front sway bar, front & rear sport shocks (and sport brakes on front). Alignment job got the front ok, but guy is telling me he can't correct the camber on the rear. And it's really off. But I don't see any way to do a home adjustment.

Is this kit you mentioned the answer?
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1995 MB E420 (lowered)
1989 MB 300SE (sold to brother)
1975 MB 280 (sold)
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  #4  
Old 04-07-2009, 07:00 PM
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 1
Hi Guys,
I am new to this site and was just reading these threads. I lowered my 300e 2.6 with H&R sports spring all around. the ride is great but, both rear wheels are tilted inwards from the top view, which causes an obvious tire wear. any advice.

Thanks,
Benz3e
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  #5  
Old 04-07-2009, 09:51 PM
Syntax26
 
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Wellsville, Pennsylvania
Posts: 54
Rear Camber Adjustment after lowering W124

Benz3e,

I posted asking about Kmac kit back in Feb '08 - 2-3 months ago. Since that time I've looked at all the different ways to adjust excess negative camber on rear wheels out.

So...first question is what is your camber reading? If it's -1.5 or less, you might just want to stay there...as you do want some negative camber.

I'll presume it's more negative than that since you're asking about this.

There are 4 ways I've come across to go toward positive:

1. Spring shims: You can increase the shims (aka pads) - which will add height and thus take camber toward positive. Cheapest solution - as the pads are only about $6 each from the dealer. Downside is you've counter-acted to some degree what you tried to do in the first place...which is lower the car. And...you can't correct the camber by very much. There's an equation I came across...wrote it down somewhere but don't have it handy. It's on a post on here somewhere.

2. Upper control arm: I might have the term wrong, since it's been awhile. But you can find them in the racing circuit - they look similiar, in a loose way, to turn-buckles. They push the top of the wheel/carrier outward. Corrects the camber, but have 2 downsides. One is it pushed your wheel/carrier outward...so you might end up with fender rub if you try to run wider tires. Second is you have to keep you eye on them (inspect occasionally)...as some of them aren't as sturdy as the original set-up.

3. Kmac kit: Essentially bushing change - from symetric to asymetric. The positive is it pulls the bottom of the wheel/carrier inward (as compared to pushing the top of the wheel/carrier outward). The downside I've read/heard about (since I've not done it) is the installation. Some folks have reported it's a real pain - the tool that comes with the kit doesn't work very well. Others have reported the job went smooth. So you'll want to read what others say.

4. Shortend lower control arms: There's a company now selling shortened LCA's for the W124. I don't have the web address/link handy, but if you want to know more, write me and I'll find it. The upside with this solution is they pull the bottom of the wheel/carrier inward. And unlike #2 above, you don't have to monitor them/inspect or readjust...since they're solid metal. Downside is they aren't adjustable - they move camber toward positive - but you have to take what they give you - which I think is about a correction of 1.5 to 2. (Which happens to be what most folks are looking for.)

Well, those are the 4 methods I've come across. I guess the 5th is to live with the excess negative camber. I've read some folks say they're fine with it. I lived with it for about a year. Tires wore bad on the inside though.

Syntax26
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1995 MB E420 (lowered)
1989 MB 300SE (sold to brother)
1975 MB 280 (sold)
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  #6  
Old 05-02-2009, 09:17 PM
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Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Al
Posts: 12
need transmission for 93 300e 2.8

I am in Al in need of this transmission.
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  #7  
Old 05-10-2009, 03:04 AM
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,473
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syntax26 View Post
4. Shortend lower control arms: There's a company now selling shortened LCA's for the W124. I don't have the web address/link handy, but if you want to know more, write me and I'll find it. The upside with this solution is they pull the bottom of the wheel/carrier inward. And unlike #2 above, you don't have to monitor them/inspect or readjust...since they're solid metal. Downside is they aren't adjustable - they move camber toward positive - but you have to take what they give you - which I think is about a correction of 1.5 to 2. (Which happens to be what most folks are looking for.)
It is www.rdmtek.com

I installed their rear kit on my 500E, and also their front camber plates to correct excessive negative camber. I have about 8k miles on my tires and they are wearing very even. Some people have complained that the K-mac kit makes squeaking noises and is somewhat hard to install in the lower control arms. The RDMTEK kits are basically bolt in/on items.
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