Ya i know that Eric. but what i can't remember if the v8 500 that have a CIS system (those early 500sl) if they are the same as M103 systems or not.

Any way abt the LH cars do they run MAF or not???? i know its stupid question from my side but i am trying to see what differs compared to HFM cars.

Yes, LH cars use a MAF (hot wire) sensor. The LH injection is a more advanced system than HFM. There are about 100 live data elements available via digital scanner for LH, compared to about 25-30 with HFM.

:hat:

CTS mod update
 

Hi all. Was able to do some back to back runs dummy CTS vs. normal CTS. 14.973@95.63 with dummy CTS vs. 15.146@94.57 w/o dummy CTS. (Corrected: 14.669@97.658 vs. 14.838@96.575.) The car was slower than usual because I went on a day that was seemingly added at the last minute and as a result they had a low turn-out. That meant no cool down time between runs. Many of my time slips are only 6-8 minutes apart! It's important to note that even with the dummy CTS the car will still slow down as it gets hotter but it is still faster with the dummy than it is without the dummy. (I guess the dummy isn't so dumb after all!) With the car so hot now my Jim F "resistorized" fans were running, I put dummy back on and ran a 15.052@94.59. Pulled it again and ran a 15.233@94.05 with the car a hair cooler. The car is so rich with dummy in place it's actually hard to start---kind of like a carburated car that was shut off while still very hot and then tried to restart after about 15 minutes of "heat soak" and the resulting fuel perculation of gas into the manifold. I need to rig up one of those "A/B" switches so I can switch back and forth between stock and modded at will. Regards, Eric

Hey Eric,

been a while man, gad to see the trick is working for you. As i have said before the trick works, it might work better on the old CIS as you have more room to move.

Any way i have the switch on my C36AMG, when the car is at 90 the scanner will show about 60 C deg if the switch is flicked on, annoying thing is if the car is running and u want the lower reading temp you need to turn the engine off then on. where as if the low reading is on and you want to switch back to normal it will do so with out having to restart the engine.

u can feel the AMG pull stronger with the lower temp setting.
but i have no time slips like u have.

Off topic, but i dont think the 36 AMG is any faster than your 400 man, at least if you compare the qt-mile runs. thou supposedly the 36 has just as much hp and trq as the 400 in a lighter car and proly shorter diff.

Btw have u ever checked if your speedo reads true? Last i compared the AMG’s to my gps enabled phone, I was off by at least 4% at 100km/h cruise control set speed, ie I had have to see an indicated 103 or 104 to be on a gps indicated 100km/h.

where as my friend’s Mitsubishi EVO is dead on at any speed!!!!!!!!

Yeah I'm expecting great things when I try the dummy CTS on my 2 CIS M-103 cars.

Thanks for the tip about turning the car off before engaging the dummy. I was turning the car off each time I changed sensors, but I doubt I would have thought to do that once I had my switch in place.

My 93 400E was rated at 275hp 295tq vs. 268hp 280tq for the C-36. The 92 400E was 268hp 295tq (All numbers American.) The C-36 has a huge rear ratio advantage (2.87 vs. my 2.24) which helps a lot. Stock vs stock the C-36 is faster by about a half second but my car in it's present state has removed that margin. But a guy could do similar mods to the C-36 and be a little faster again. It's a tough call though because there is way more room for improvement with the 400E. For example the 400E muffler and resonator are just awful whereas the C-36 already has an optimized exhaust system. Same for the ECU programing on the C-36: already optimized. So I don't know if the same level of mods would net you the same level of gains on a C-36. I also could swap in an S-class 5.0 M-119 very easily. It would be a direct bolt-in! I'm already running a 5.0 LH ECU and EZL! No such easy upgrade for the C-36. I still want one though.http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...cons/icon7.gif I want one bad!http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...cons/icon7.gif

The only info I have about my speedo accuracy is that it seems to coincide with the trap speed numbers at the track. Regards, Eric

hate to be late to a party, but just a few things i've found.. If you want to do away w/ the rev limit in an M103 car drop a V8 CIS/CISE FPR.. the relays work off 555 counters that count the pulses from the ignition on the TD signal.. Once it sees a preset # it cuts fuel. By dropping the V8 relay, it's looking for 8 pulses per rev. as opposed the 6 that the 6 cylinder is putting out, thus you get a 25% increase in rev limit and you'll Never go that far..well, maybe once;-)


As for getting fuel into these cars I had/have been fighting w/ my US 91 560SEC that I've put tri y's and ECE cams.. Installed the ECE KE and EZL to no avail, was still getting high 13's/low 14's @ WOT.. But I Did find that if I disabled the O2 I'd get down into the high 12's... So one O2 sensor wired through the rear window child lock out switch and I have All the fuel I want when I want it.. I've gotten Good at finding that switch w/o looking as of late... As w/ all things YMMV:)

Oh, and I have the R16 resistor pulled on this engine..w/ it in I was 2-3 degrees advance (bah..) with it out I'm running 13-14:)

Jonathan

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Now playing: Blue Man Group - Up the roof (feat. Tracy Bonham)
via FoxyTunes

Jonathan thanx for reminding me that the o2 might kill any attempt at fooling the ecu into more fuel.
on my M103 w124 i had the o2 removed some 9 yrs ago :S

Are you saying you got a 560 (a US one at that) down to a 12 sec quarter?? On the strip?? Surely not unless it is extremely not standard.
Then again I was reading about your 6.0 32v yesterday by chance and watching the vid which seems pretty interesting (wouldn't do a 12 sec 1/4 though??)...

Anyway cheers for the info. I have a euro car therefore no O2. Which means I can change the fuelling as much as I like.... I've just had no success. Any info? What've you been doing fuelling wise on that 560?

Exactly. Peak power will be produced with A/F ratio right around 12.5 or so.

:hat:

If I could run 12 in the 1/4 w/ my SEC I'd be one Happy Camper! I don't see that happening till I have the $$ and Time to get my twin GT28 install up and running..!

I'm still surprised you can't get the fuel in.. If despite craking up the EHA it refuses to richen up I'd almost suspect your fuel distro to be @ it's limit..but that would seem Odd as there is usually a Good bit of room in these even from the factory. The only time I've had to have a unit tweaked to make the fuel I need was on an 88 Lotus turbo that runs CIS... We intalled a UTCIS unit and had the differential pressures Maxed, only to get mid 13's under boost.. In that instance the distro internals needed tweaking to get down into the 12's.

All of that aside, I'm trying to make some serious inroads towards stand alone for 117 and 119's. As it works out I'll be sure to chime in here:)

Jonathan

Uncle Jon, do you think your O2 sensor trick would work on an M-119 LH car? Remember I came up with the crazy idea of running a switchable 2nd "tired" O2 sensor for the same purpose (to richen A/F ratios at WOT) but you didn't like that idea. Won't simply disconnecting the O2 sensor cause the LH to throw a code? Regards, Eric

Eric,

Why would you want to enrich ur car???? Running AFR 12.5 or 13 is just the same and am sure ur car is abt 12.5 if not less with the temp trick.

I would love to run the temp trick on my AMG without the enrichment, and i have found the trick but i just need to install my Wideband to confirm it
Trick is throw 10% alcohol in with the fuel, that will surely lean out the mix
then enrich it back with the temp trick to the AFR i need. That way i get more timing on same afr as without timing. :P