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New Intercooler and Electric Radiator Fan on Turbo E320.
Adding a Water to Air intercooler in addition to the Air to Air it already has. Upgrading the piping to 2.5" since the 2.25 is all but maxed out. Should drop temps a good 40-50 degrees and be good for 30-50hp before the retune. Also adding in a 16" Zirgo 3300cfm radiator fan to prepare the cooling system for the new turbo :gunsmilie:. Time to turn off stun and turn on kill. :flamethro:uzi:
16" Zirgo 3300cfm Radiator Fan 12"x12"x4.5" Water/Air Intercooler 31.5"x9.5"x3.5" Intercooler Radiator 2.5" Intercooler Piping(not pictured) Brushless 3A, 400GPH Water Pump RicerCola Can for reference http://i25.tinypic.com/2v0y04o.jpg http://i32.tinypic.com/9gvxqv.jpg http://i29.tinypic.com/34rt7x1.jpg http://i32.tinypic.com/29wmjhl.jpg |
I've got way more done than the pics let on but here, the water intercooler is on the left of the air to air intercooler:
http://i25.tinypic.com/2csfe4k.jpg http://i29.tinypic.com/atnllw.jpg[/quote |
Man are you sure u still need the Air to Air IC???? i am more than sure it will be a restriction than anything else. A water to air the size like the one you got should be good for over 600HP setups and will easily drop air temps.
This my say on this, gr8 work still |
My air to air is so small there is no real restriction or dissipation of the boost so I'm keeping it on. During city driving that W/A intercooler is gonna get hot so I need the A/A to keep the intake temps down in the city.
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i say try it with and without the A/A back to back. what boost u aiming for?
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Haven't got much done due to lack of a few needed couplers and fittings but here's what I got done.
-Wiring is done -Hot side piping is complete -That little pump can shoot water a pretty good distance, stronger than I thought. -Fan works when the A/C is switched on so I assume it's wired correctly. The S-blades make it a little quieter but it's still loud as hell. It may not be 3300cfm but it's definately stronger than the 2250cfm flex-lite my buddies truck runs. -Blow-thru MAF setup, it's going to move onto the pipe connecting the air intercooler cold side so I can position the Greddy RS BOV in front of it. Still looking perfect after over 20K miles: http://i26.tinypic.com/6sgewp.jpg Progess: http://i26.tinypic.com/1tr685.jpg http://i30.tinypic.com/2ltsg3d.jpg |
Hey,cool project just need another water to air on the left side now^^.
its possible having the mass that far from the intake will make it alittle unpredicatable due to temperature change/pressure drop between the mas and intake valves,correct me if im wrong! |
All the pressure drops occur after the intercoolers so it is as accurate as possible. Also it maxxes out at 3psi so I utilize the MAP sensor in my AEM piggyback ECU. For temperature monitoring it is in the perfect spot. Before, it was before the turbo pulling in near ambient air. It had the engine thinking it was getting 80-90 degree air when it was really getting 120-130 degree air. This is much safer than before.
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does your car use the maf to guage intake air temp? my car has a seperate intake air temp sensor,
i have my air flow meter before the turbo, and my temp sensor just before the throttle body |
Always wanted to know if this was a good idea. Two things I wanted to point out though. First and I know this from experience is that you need to tap one of the end tanks of the air/water for a bypass to bleed the air out of the top of the intercooler or weld the outlet bung at the top of the tank. The way it is setup now, it will only be half full of water. The other is I would think that you would want to have the air/water after the air/air. Especially if you are planning to run a ice filled reservoir to run sub ambient temperatures, you do not want the air/air to warm the charge air back up.
Otherwise looking good. Where are you going to put a reservoir? A lot of the amg guys are running from the spare tire well. I did this a long time ago but did not like the lines running all the way fore and aft. Also go as big as you can on your radiator for the system. Your reservoir gives you heat soak capacity on a pull but the radiator is what sets your base line temperatures. |
C'mon Max, you know & I know you're just putting off the inevitable.:D
Stop all the piggy-back nonsense & moving the MAF around antics & megasquirt (or another stand-alone) the thing already.;) You're not going to be happy with the performance & state-of-tune until you do! In all seriousness, I know it's way easier said than done but how nice would it be? |
Too cool!
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