Thanks buddy

Thanks for the offer. I don't know what workshop guy knows just yet concerning MS? He doesn't know these engines that I do know. I need to meet up with him to discuss it all yet. I've only told his boss I want to scrap the LPG & go EFI. That's as far as I've got for now. Think I'll grab these EFI parts from Singapore though. Fair prices & he has a custom fuel rail & EFI loom basically plug n play Seems good.....the rims were just at the right price at the right time. Just gotta get em under now hehe.....

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um.....why have men got nipples

Guys. Turns out Euro/US is quite different when it comes to fuels & ECU technology. Majority of OS car modifiers actually use EMS's designed/built in AUS (edited thanks to Dearlove pulling me up lol)

Anyway. The E85 fuel is pathetic down here. 2 independant tests proved it is very unreliable as it is too new here. First sample proved only 72% ethanol mixture whilst the 2nd was 87%. Great. Try tuning to that! Economy is very poor like 50% extra needed to equal 98 RON's efficiency! No way worth the trouble! although OS may have E85 down pat, we're yet to get it right down here.

Anyway. As a result I will be tuning to 98 RON which is everywhere here. $2k extra (+ coil packs?) will see me EFI this beast. Workshop will fabricate the fuel rail & wire up the stand alone ECU. They will be essentially doing all custom work.

Here's a quick list of EFI gear they will be using:

Haltech Ignition module, works independent of dizzy/leads similar to wasted spark ignition system that negates need of trigger wheel
V6 Ford/Buick? Coil Packs
Microtech LTX8 ECU
Custom fuel rail with Aeromotive (quality) fuel regulator
Lift Pump Carter
60lb Injectors
044 fuel pump
Surge tank
Braided lines to suit

Layed eyes on the extractor merge collector that was custom made today also.......ooooooooooooooh What a pretty piece a machinery.

Also. Will be using mild steel exhaust, not SS (SS was twice the price ) Mild steel will las for donkey's years at the gauge he's using.

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um.....why have men got nipples

are you high!!! micro tech is about 1k for a basic ecu, MS is like 200 bucks???

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'85 190, unrego'd (prospect track car)
'87 190e, manual (kinda rare in australia)
'89 260e

yeah LOL, you got me there dearlove but that MS price would be for a basic DIY parts kit. You have to build the thing from scratch. Assembled units are more expensive & you still have to configure it. I was referencing to a complete ready-to-go EMS unit.

As a DIY project & if you were handy with a soldering iron & have the time as our OS members, reckon it would be fine. Some members down here on Nissan & even Commodore Forums have given it a go. As far as my workshops' concerned, he prefers to go with the Microtech. Think you'd be hard pressed finding a shop to muck around with MS here? Certainly a wiring diagram to hardwire it to loom would save heaps of time/hassle. I'm sure members would assist with this though.

This is one area that's costing me. The labour to wire the stand alone to car. This on top of purchasing the Microtech makes it an expensive exercise. Sure there's customer support/service/warranty that you won't get with MS unit brought in from OS but you pay for it
But your right, MS are way cheaper as a DIY EMS. My bad

P.S. I've edited the above post thanks to Dearlove's correction.

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um.....why have men got nipples

After researching a little more. I'd say the Microtech ECU is about middle of the range for pricing. You can try your hand @ MS or pay over twice what the Microtech is even. Essentially they all do the same.

Found this very interesting @ least. I have researched the hell outta boosting, turbocharger variants you name it but was kinda caught out with the MS thing. I take my hat off to you members that have gone to the trouble to use it & pass on the info

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um.....why have men got nipples

yeah you wont find a shop down here that'll be interested in tuning MS, if your not diy you'd have to get main stream,

other good ecu's are link (or Vipec here in oz) bout $1500, heard good things

i would guess it would cost about $1k to wire in, plus tuning

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'85 190, unrego'd (prospect track car)
'87 190e, manual (kinda rare in australia)
'89 260e

The way I see it is your better off going with the ECU that the installer you choose is familiar with. That way your guaranteed to have the job done right My workshop uses Microtech so, I'll go with that. It is $600 to wire up. Tuning? Will have to see on the dyno day.

Should have my wheels Monday Sent off Wednesday

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um.....why have men got nipples

Just scored front brake upgrade parts off EBay. Not much comes up but.....da da (big thanks to ps2cho too for conformation advice )

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180594017619&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

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um.....why have men got nipples

Great, those brakes are an easy swap

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190E 3.0-24v (M104 980) turbo @ 0.8 bar
1/4 mile: 2.483 / 13.540 / 175.17 km/h (street tires)

BAD: Took wheels I just purchased in to get the outer lips kinda rolled back to shape & turns out 2 rims are badly out-of-shape. Spin them by hand on a wheel balance jig & they wobble. Pretty bad too So. shop is going to give the worst a go at re-rounding them (don't ask me what this involves because alloy is originally cast so you can't technically re-roll them) & if successful, the rest will be done. If unsuccessful, they're useless Anyway, shop guy is positive at this stage.

GOOD: Scored the brake upgrade off EBay (as above posts)

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um.....why have men got nipples

i am after a brake upgrade on my 3.4 AMG but i want something with amg emblem on it and bigger than what you got here....still looking over a good deal and donno which to get!

Looking through this article below showing the distributor mounted hall sensor v's the crank mounted. Found it interesting!

http://people.physics.anu.edu.au/~amh110/Hall_sensor/hall_sensor_trigger.htm

Also. This thread I hijacked below explains the Haltech Module & application info, similar to what my workshop will be doing. Bit daunting for young players but a few who are into EFI I reckon will find it If you look @ the 6th & 8th post, you should pick up where the trigger wheel is not needed. I think the haltech module, I'm guessing, allows for notebook software to receive sensor input?/output? & relay it to the coil packs so, it would appear to not need the trigger wheel:

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um.....why have men got nipples

that page for hybridz just took us to the index

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'85 190, unrego'd (prospect track car)
'87 190e, manual (kinda rare in australia)
'89 260e

try this link:

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/20604-got-my-haltech-system-running-tonight/

Here's the 2 posts with info in case it drops off or something. Bit confusing as I think his set up is a twin type? He uses the hall effect with 'wasted spark' as well as 'distributor mode'?:

POST 6:

No, you don't need to run the crank trigger with magnets for waste spark. You simply connect the 4 wires coming from the dist. (CAS) and set the ignition mode to waste spark in the Haltech software. The distributor contains the optical equivalent to the flying magnets on a crank trigger. Changing the trigger wheel inside the distributor to a 300ZX trigger wheel allows you to run waste spark or distributor mode at your choice. This just gives the ECU a "Home" signal to determine when cylinder 1 is coming up.

For waste spark you don't connect the distributor cap wires to anything (I cut mine off and epoxy them up for looks). You run the ignition outputs to your igniter which then drives your coils. You'll use the Ign out(drives coil 1), Dig 1(drives coil 2) and Dig 2(drives coil 3) as the ignition inputs to the igniter(s). The plug wires run from the coil packs to the plugs. You then run the plug wires such that coil 1 connects to plugs 1/6, coil 2 connects to plugs 2/5 and coil 3 connects to plugs 3/4. The trick is setting the "ignition setups" in the software the correct way.

Here is how mine is setup:

Trigger Input = Hall Effect
Trigger Edge = Rising
Home Input = Hall Effect
Home Edge = Rising

Trigger Angle = ~43 degrees (depends on your dist. position and engine)
Trigger Type = Nissan
Home Window Teeth = 9
Nissan Tooth Offset =1

Spark Mode = direct fire(for waste spark) or distributor
Engine type = Piston

The rest depends on the type of coil and igniter you're using.

Output Type = Constant Charge (Used with dummy igniters)
Coil Charge Time = 4ms (depends on coil)
Output Edge = Falling

Hope this clears some things up

POST 7:

Yes, the Haltech uses GM sensors for MAP, Air Temp and Water temp. If you buy the flying lead kit, it comes with the air and water temp. sensors. You can usually find a 3 BAR map sensor on eBay for cheap (around $70).

If you're using the 240sx 60mm TB, then you can use the TPS that's stock with it. I've been collecting them and selling them on eBay, just for this reason. The TPS has a potentiometer that is perfect for the haltech. You just wire in the three wires and you're set.

The coils can be any coil appropriate for waste spark(6 singles or 3 double output). I've used the GM V6 coils(three coil packs in one brick) from a Buick engine and I'm being told that the 86 to 91 Mazda RX-7 coils are very good. They have a very low winding resistance and produce a fantastic spark. You can buy a 3 channel igniter from Haltech, or use a coil igniter from most any engine. The igniter is nothing more then a power transistor that can handle the current required for the coils. Even the 280zx turbo used one on the side of the coil. The Haltech ignition outputs can't drive the coils directly, so you must have an igniter first. If you are using a distributor with one coil, then you only need one igniter. If you're using 3 coils in a waste spark setup, then you need either 3 igniters (1 per coil) or a single 3 channel igniter.

There's a fair bit of wiring, but not any more complex then a good stereo. The big thing is to understand the theory of why things work on an EFI engine. Once you understand the basics, it all starts to make sense.

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um.....why have men got nipples

our cars dont have CAS (Crank angle sensors)

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'85 190, unrego'd (prospect track car)
'87 190e, manual (kinda rare in australia)
'89 260e