Hi Guys,

Right I have to strip this beast. As I`m running Megasquirt and have an electric water pump so the only things I really need are belts to the alternator and cam shafts.

This isn`t my engine but one I pulled from google.

Am I right in assuming that on the right we have the air con and duel pump? What is everything else? I think I can see a tensioner, but this engine is not what you would call obvious. ....Where is the water pump??? What is every thing else? and more importantly can I get rid of it? I could blindly start stipping but would rather be armed with some information first...

Can anyone help??



Cheers
Stuart

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I think on the far left is the air pump, alternator below it, A/C is on the bottom right, and the power steering is probably the one above it. The water pump is the -2- above the crank I think. If you go to the fastlane, and look at the part it has 2 pulleys.
http://catalog.peachparts.com/ShopByVehicle.epc?q=1995-Mercedes--Benz-S600--Sedan-Cooling--System&yearid=1995%40%401995&makeid=63%40%40MERCEDES+BENZ%40%40X&modelid=6460%3ABT|5%3AMBC|1550%3AED|10000075%40%40S600+Sedan&catid=240909%40%40Cooling+System&subcatid=240952@@Water+Pump&mode=PA

What MagnumPi says. The power steering is combined with a hydraulic pump for hydraulic suspension. If you run that pump at all you will have to circulate fluid through both pumps to lubricate it.

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John Roncallo

Thanks guys, I have a fully labelled diagram now Although I`m having 2nd thoughts about my inline water pump now.....I will have to deliberate that one.

Thanks Ron, I will definatly remove them first, it wouldn`t surpise me if they have seized already.

Do you gents think it is safe to ditch the air pump (at least for the moment) on the basis of:

I can control the burn for the emissions test (perfect lambda, via wideband sensor/ecu) in combination with a sports cat on either side?

Obviously perefect Lambda isn`t ideal for power but it will get me through emissions, well thats what I`m thinking. Production cars don`t have the luxury of changing their map at the drop of a hat.

I can always re-install and add a larger belt if required.....it would just mean a re-test.

Opinions welcome gents.

Thanks

It's useless. If you can pass whatever test or inspection without it, take it off. It only works at closed loop, cold start. So, during a test it's not even on. Nowadays they're electric anyway.

Cheers Magnum, us kit cars guys are allowed to drive to the test so she will be nice and warm anyway.

I should have definatly freed up a few extra horses with the major reduction in mechanical drag.... Air Con, Water pump, Air pump, tensioner, power steering/hydraulic pump.......the alternator is the only thing left, just need to find a belt that fits.

It will be interesting to see the resultant power.

Thanks Again

No problem. Should be nice when it's done.

I decided to keep my car green. I have the air pump installed and operational. It's only used during warm up and is essentially and idler pulley once warmed up.

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To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
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John Roncallo

I had to make a custom Alternator and Air pump bracket to move the air pump in.

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__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo

Did you need to make brackets due to the engine fouling on the chassis? I have enough room for everything in the engine bay (surprisingly) but I suspect I will have to make an alternator bracket to align the crank pulley with the alternator.

or.... I can keep the water pump in its entirety and use that in combination with the alternator and no re-routing to do. The only downside to this is that the water pump is suspected to sap 10KW, which in real money is about 13hp.

Stuart

Yes. I had to relocate the Air pump only due to interference with the chassis. I had to do major mods to the subframe to clear the alternator, compressor and oil pan.

__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit:
http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store
John Roncallo