Was thinking today due to the lack of aftermarket brake products for the w124 that it would be cool to use a porsche caliper and rotor combo off of a 993 or even a 996.

Now i know some kind of adapter thing would have to be made to be able to mount the calipers onto where the stock caliper sat.

What I don't know is if it is possible/safe to have rotors redrilled? Because i would want to be able to use the big cross drilled rotors that came on those porsche's.

Also my brake booster would need to be upgraded. I have seen people who use the 500e brake booster when putting on different calipers. I have an '89 560sel, would I be able to use that brake booster in my w124? Is it even remotely close to the same as the 500e one?

I would also be changing out my brake lines as well.

Let me know if you have any insight, thanks!

Anything with a Porsche part# is going to cost bank$$$ If I were to consider swapping brake parts to upgrade performance I'd be looking into less expensive options.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff

Not if you look in salvage yards and places like that. Fortunately for me i have a strictly european awsomeness yard about an hour from my house. This guy has everything you could ever need.

What wheels are you running? You could have serious clearance issues if not running 17s or larger wheels.

big brakes are best.........

I am running 18x8" at the moment

Out of all of that I didn't see him say a thing about changing his brake booster so it must not be an issue. Thanks for sharing that with me.

Still need to know whether or not it is safe to redrill rotors?

Do you know the material of rotors conski? I'm guessing they are hardened steel of some sort right? I have never heard a problem with drilling out any steel personally but only aluminium that has been forged/spun! You risk it cracking due to already worked/stressed metal. I know you'd need to be very careful even welding forged alloy.

Can you ask a metalurgy place. Even a turning place that deals with automotive steel? Better be safe than sorry......

__________________

um.....why have men got nipples

There are actually quite a few options for brake upgrades on W124s...




The easiest swap seems to be the 4 piston C32 brakes, as IIRC they are a straight bolt on.



Are you looking for bite or fade resistance?



I am running some 4 piston Brembos right now, and am looking to step up to 6 pistons.

__________________
-Justin

91 560 SEC AMG - other dogs dd
01 Honda S2000 - dogs dd
07 MB ML320 CDI - dd
16 Lexus IS250 - wifes dd

it's automatic.

consider evo 9 calips, and search the merc bin for what front and rear Rotors to fit.

__________________
Jay,
-----------------
-1995 Blue W202 C36 AMG (M) SOLD ;(
-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
-1981 Gold W123 280CE.(Dareen)(Sold)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jayrasheed

i got C32 fronts and rear to be installed on my W124. But didnt attempt the install yet. After a lot of reading, research and help from many member, the C32 brakes will fit but they arent the easiest option.
The best option would be the silver arrow brake setup (think can be found on the SL and CL i beleive)

Front: 334mm x 32mm
Rear: 300mm x 22mm

Front lower control arms (LCA) with non-replaceable ball joints are required for clearance of the larger 334mm rotors, as shown in this photo. If your car has the early type LCA's with replaceable ball joints, you will need to swap to the late style LCA's. All US-spec 124.032, .034, .052, and .066 chassis already have the correct LCA's; as do all 129.076. For 124.036 and 129.066/067 it depends on the year/VIN/options. All other W124/R129 models, and I believe all years/models of W201 will need the control arm swap.

The C32 fluid inlet is part of the install problem. You can't use the stock brake hoses without an adapter, and I think you'll need different hoses to go along with the adapter.

For comparison, see the photo of the "Silver Arrow" 334mm caliper, painted black... note the fluid inlet is in the stock location and uses stock hoses on a 124/129/201.

Attached Thumbnails

   

Chlippo!!!
I am impressssssed what a write up, just to add the Siver arrow ones are alum calips IIRC. and are made by brembo.

__________________
Jay,
-----------------
-1995 Blue W202 C36 AMG (M) SOLD ;(
-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
-1981 Gold W123 280CE.(Dareen)(Sold)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jayrasheed

drilled rotors will only be of any help if u drive in rain conditions, other than that they will crack at the drills with time and hard abuse. Now porsche uses a special drilling method to minimize this. in most cases non of us will use similar methods when drilling the rotors.

i have used slotted/drilled after market rotors on my w124 and the 2 sets i used ended with cracks at the drill holes after just 25000km on avg. Slotted rotors are best i say as they dont crack, they clean the pads and hardly fade as they clear the gases when the pads run hot.

using a c32 setup on a W124 will be more than enough for the car and its weight. i say so since i really run my C36AMG hard on mountain roads and i dont have the slightest issues with fade. mine is a 95 with the 320X32 directionally cooled rotors up front 4 piston AMG calips and the rears are w124 E420 ones with 278X22 2 piston calips. and a 1700kg heavy car. the W124 has less weight.

__________________
Jay,
-----------------
-1995 Blue W202 C36 AMG (M) SOLD ;(
-1995 Black W140 S500 (Lady)
-1992 Black W124 E300 (Dima) (Ex-Mosselman
Twin turbo Kit).
-1988 Black W124 300 E 4-Matic.(Nadeen)
-1983 Brown W126 500SEL.(Old Lady)(Sold)
-1981 Gold W123 280CE.(Dareen)(Sold)
http://www.youtube.com/user/jayrasheed

credit to GSXR

Not down under! Merc parts are like gold. Wreckers fleece you for all they can. Believe me as I've run into it a few times. BMSW stuff isn't too bad but Merc Best to buy a cheap whole salvage car, even running when they come up. Not too often though as they are always still in OK nick & not quite cheap enough

Jay. Most Jap performance guys also use the slotted rotors. I will prolly be fitting the stock new rotors that came with 124V larger 4 piston calipers, shields, pads etc I recently cored cheap. I would like to use a slotted set but will see when I get the car home.

Yeah, the 300E is approx 1400kgs. Some state 1500. Bit of a difference.

__________________

um.....why have men got nipples

Not really related to the current discussion, but I saw an inquiry above. AFIK aside from certain exotics, all rotors are cast iron.

__________________

90 300TE 4-M
Turbo 103, T3/T04E 50 trim
T04B cover .60 AR
Stage 3 turbine .63 AR
A2W I/C, 40 LB/HR
MS2E, 60-2 Direct Coil Control
3" Exh, AEM W/B O2
Underdrive Alt. and P/S Pulleys,
Vented Rear Discs, .034 Booster.
3.07 diffs 1st Gear Start

90 300CE 104.980
Milled & ported head, 10.3:1 compression
197° intake cam w/20° advancer
Tuned CIS ECU
4° ignition advance
PCS TCM2000, built 722.6
600W networked suction fan
Sportline sway bars
V8 rear subframe, Quaife ATB 3.06 diff