A few people have done it, I just don't know how it'll hold up.

I think imma give regrinds and solid lifters a shot when I build my turbo motor.

Hey Jay AMG done tweaked that motor what else could be done?Try blowing it.

If you look at the cam profiles you realize there would be a fair amount of gain in cams and headers on these motors, including the 3.6. You might loose some bottom end torque but if you gain a lot on the top end it might be worth it.

I'm not sure that much of that top-end gain could or would actually be realized unless you swapped out that low-end orientated intake manifold too. Even when in it's "top-end" mode, it is still relatively low-end orientated!

Jay should just turbo that C36! And we all know that Jay is just the man to do it!
Regards, Eric

Not a C36. The blocks are too thin. Everyone that I've heard being turbo'd ends up cracking the block. 3.2/2.8's are better, 3.0's even more so.

It's a turbo. Wall thickness > bore size.

I know of two higher output 3.6 turbo engines that both switched to the 3.2 bore with the 3.6 crank because of cyinder wall and headgasket failure. If you look at the specs the actual displacement with this combo is about 3.5liters. The 3.5 om603 has the same bore as a 3.2l and same stroke as a 3.6. It is not exact but very close.
I went a little further on the cam timing with a cyl leak down to see actual open and close. I think the factory specs are for at spec lift. I do not know that spec. Say .5mm or something.
I got intake of 15 atdc and 10 btdc for open and just right around 15-20 degrees abdc and 10 bbdc. That is no advance and advance in stock positioning. One tooth advance on the intake does cause valve interference. The exhaust is stock position roughly 30 bbdc and 5 btdc and advance one tooth is roughly 10 bbdc and 15 atdc. I also took a look at the bearing to lifter clearance and the intake and exhaust is different. I have not tried fitting yet but it looks like it might take a taller lifter. These are all rough checks off of the balancer and a 200,000 mile engine without oil pressure in the tensioner so they are not exact but give an idea.
But the exhaust retarded one tooth might be good for higher rpm with headers since you won't be using much of the fire stroke to get rid of the exhaust pulse. Worth a shot.
I also have a m119 advance mech that has almost half the advance as the m104. I think that in combination with the intake advanced one tooth might give you the max intake advance without interference. It fits on the cam but I have not looked at the setup on the motor yet. I will keep gathering info.

Where are these mythical engines? Everytime and M104 with forced induction comes up, I feel like I hear of mythical high output monsters, but I've never actually seen or heard from anyone that actually owns one. You have your supercharged motor, Joreto has his turbo .98, and Roman has his turbo .98. Kynsi has his franken .94. I dont doubt they exist, I just would like to speak to the owners to see what they've done.

Actually they are both on the East coast. The one was the original Black twin turbo c36 from the magazine article. The other was his friends. The both were set up as single turbos with the LH intake manifold and an intercooler on top. They were both converted to the 3.2l blocks with custom pistons and rods. I think the last I talked to either of them one of them was sold and the other was getting the engine broke in. They had been up to 425-450 whp. The new motor was supposed to go to 6--whp but I never heard anything more. This was with full AEM standalone. I do not remember there handles on mbworld but if you search you can find at least the one. John something. Just search c36 turbo for sale. They do not go on the forum much anymore.
I also used to work with a guy that tt'd a c36 but with low boost. I think it was a mosselman or the other kits modified to a c36. He only ran 4lbs of boost. When he tried to turn it up it just blew headgaskets. The guys on the East coast would also.

I talked to a custom cam company today. They said the cam timing should stay the way it is for my application. More lift and a little more duration. Lobe seperation should stay where it is. Get a little overlap from the duration. They weld up the cams and regrind to get the same base circle. Been around for a long time and say that they do this all the time. I asked about failure. They said it really does not happen. Also suggested solid lifters. Cost is around 800 dollars for both cams.

Seriously interested. Whom is the company?

Web Cams. I was referred by another company because they specialize in our style camshafts.

Think this is their web sait Web Cam Inc. - Performance and Racing Camshafts

So I was thinking of head flow and found the specs kynsi got from before.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/performance-paddock/269449-m104-cylinder-head-differences-9.html

If you look at the flow then you think it is not so good but look at the lift. The stock cams have 9.2mm of lift. If you look at most performance heads that flow really well this is right on target. We need more lift. 9.2mm is .362 iches. I am going to check the max lift we can get on stock valve set up. Check for coil bind and seal and stem clearance.
If we got another 2mm of lift then we could get a lot more in the cylinder.

I think you're going to run into a problem before you get into coil bind: hitting the head with the lobe. I get done with school here in a week and have a couple-o-3 bare heads at home I can set up for you, but when I was re-building both the .98 and the .99 heads, they both looked to be cutting it tight even on the cute little cams.

I realize that. I will have the head cut down for the cams. I am probably going to have the head done anyway. I talked to a port guy that really knows his stuff today. I am taking in a spare head to take a look at the bowls and seats. I am going to get spring pressure checked etc. He seems to remember the head a little off the top of his head and thinks that there is some real room for improvement in the bowls. He is old school and does all the work by hand including valves and seats. Really neat guy to talk to. Cannot wait to go and meet him. Probably next week. He charges 700.00 for a full valve job with guides and the bowls reworked. Not bad. He was saying like 10% gains. That would be fantastic.