W202 c230k supercharger delete
 

Hello peachparts! in anticipation of a turbo project I'm looking for
any info regarding deleting the supercharger and electronic bypass
without throwing a code. I'm planning on using the stock ecu and using
piggybacks for fueling extra injectors and maf clamping. Is it possible
to delete them by using resistors to fool the ecu? any thoughts/ideas are much appreciated! Thank you!

Probably be better to just swap a non kompressor ecu in. Just the standard c230 ecu. Depending on what year it is that the format is the same. Me 2.0, 2.1, etc.

I dont see why you wouldn't just plumb it into the new turbo piping. The turbo is gonna need a blow off too, so why not let the ECU control it with the stock hardware?

I cant the ecu's are preprogrammed according to the VIN unfortunately

I guess I could, I just dont know if I trust that thing under more pressure and I'd like to have a BOV closer to the intake manifold, mechanical just seems more reliable to me. Can the codes be flashed out perhaps? Im pretty sure I have a Bosch ECU which is more forgiving that the Siemens units. I really dont want to nor can afford to go standalone. I know this has been done before with just piggybacks , Im just hoping to get lucky with some info! thanks eh!

Many swaps have been done these days. This would not be hard. Have a used ecu unlocked and then married to your car. Do a search there is a lot of info out there. The vin is just for drive authorization. All the tuning and what not is already in the ecu.

The bypass units are pretty robust. I've never replaced one and I have plenty of 2.3K's that I service. I wouldn't have any reservations about keeping it. The ECU will like having it, and the car will probably drive better with it. Consider that the bypass valve serves the same purpose as a BOV. Where the BOV is binary in its operation, the bypass valve is near infinitely variable and already mapped by your existing ECU for the engine and chassis its installed in. Its a pretty kick ass piece of tech, I think.

Opinions are like, well you know. I run a lot of boost and a BOV. Its vented to atmosphere so its quite audible. What I find sometimes is that at partial throttle I'm blowing through the BOV. The BOV doesn't know I don't want it open, it just knows that there is enough pressure differential to crack it open. My point is that if I already had a pre-programmed variable control bypass valve, I'd be looking for ways to keep it not delete it.

I believe this has been done a few times on Club202. You may want to check out over there

Yep.

I'm constantly amazed at the number of people that thing they can significantly 'improve' factory engineered solutions.

If you're worried about CEL light issues another issue for consideration is the role of the supercharger in generating compressed air for the secondary air injection system. You're going to need to replace that functionality somehow and since most air-injection cycles happen at low engine speed/loads a turbocharged solution isn't going to cut-it.

well when you put it like thaaaat... i guess ill just use it and stop worrying about throwin codes without it haha thanks man :D

jfilipcic, thats the main forum i use and TimFreeh, i had posed that question in regard to secondary air bypassing at Club202, just waiting for some responses :cool: . Maybe a wire in a o2 sim with a spdt relay that when the signal for secondary air happens it switches to an o2 thats lean cuz its in open air, ecu thinks its working, then sec air switches off relay switches back to actual o2 and closed loop.If i could only get my greasy paws on a proper c230k wiring diagram as my haynes manual doesnt cover it. or im crazy. any thoughts?

You could actually fab up a functional air injection system. You could keep the same functionality with an electric air pump wired with two relays in series, basicly an "AND" logic circuit. One relay would be powered by the supercharger clutch wire, and the other by the diverter valve's switchover valve, owing that you would also keep the switchover valve. When both conditions are met, functional air injection results, just as the ECU expects. A trip to the junkyard could net you an air pump, as well as supercharger delete accessory drive parts from a non Kompressor M111.

Having the supercharger clutch wire connected to a relay coil may also prevent an "open circuit supercharger clutch" fault code. The best part is that emissions wouldn't have to suffer.

Perfect! Thank you so much i really appreciate the input! I was actually out picking off a 94 c220 and got the aluminum manifold off it. Meant to pull the alternator w/bracket but it was a lil chilly at -20(c) haha ill have to go back this weekend n grab those goodies. Im just trying to picture this circuit in my tiny brain. :o

Easy!

In regards to the above wiring diagram for replace air injection system wiring keep in mind the stock ECU is going to be looking for a specific resistance to ground through the clutch windings. When power is applied I'm also guessing the ECU will monitor current draw so whatever solution you're going to use will (I think) also require you to mount the original compressor clutch somewhere in the engine bay to operate as a phantom load to fool the ECU into thinking its still operating a stock system. Maybe you could zip-tie the compressor to the air cleaner or something?

I am not so sure the ecu is this discerning. In my experience it is really just looking for open/short. You are right though on some motors the computers check for ohms to ground after they shut off. Like the ABS/ASR pump is later years. But they switch power and monitor through the relay. The supercharger clutch is supplied with 12vlts fused and then ecu controls ground directly.
It might overload the ecu's driver to run an electric air pump though.
I can tell you that the air pump would not last very long as it would be running all the time as the computer would think that it is the supercharger clutch and it is applied a little more than just for secondary air injection.
I still say put in a non kompressor ecu. It solves all of these problems. It would cost about what ever a used ecu costs from a salvage yard and around 2-300 to have it unlocked and then just another hundred or so to have someone with a star machine marry it to your car. Or just sell the car and buy a non kompressor car.