722.6 into 560SEL with M117 - Page 3 - PeachParts Mercedes-Benz Forum

duxthe1 · #31 05-27-2016, 01:50 AM

I've been obsessing lately over tuning the last few % in mine. I don't want to even think about how much of my spare time is spent staring at datalogs. I've learned that its all about controlling the overlap valve for each shift. You can get an idea of what its doing by zooming in on the RPM after the shift is commanded. Once you're ready to start tuning the built box I may be able to offer some pointers more useful than just my tune. If you run into the same trouble tuning 1-2 I have an idea about a valve body mod to get a better range of adjustment out of it. I kinda want to wait and see how yours shifts before I pursue it.

300SD81 · #32 05-27-2016, 02:36 AM

I definitely need to study the hydraulic side some more. Most of my tuning was just driving around, adjusting, and more driving. Got it pretty close, but it could certainly use a bit more work. The main concern was getting her drivable when my original trans blew, and then I kind of moved on to the MS3 project intending to come back after since I'd be changing out the TPS data source and adding MAP. Any pointers would be greatly appreciated

(and I'm sure by the next guy reading this as well).

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Moving on to K3. After various experiments using the old frictions, apply plate and steels to simulate the ones I don't have yet, it looks like I'll "only" be able to fit 12 of the single sided frictions in and get 1.5mm of clearance, with no cutting, the 4mm backing plate and thinnest snap ring. I'd need 4.1mm to fit another pair and it doesn't look like more than 2mm can come off the piston side and still have the clutch engage the sun gear.

Assuming I'm reading this correctly, K3 doesn't actually hold power until 4th gear, so should be ok.

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And B2.. this one is gonna be hard. I do plan on making 700+HP, so I really want to try and do something here. 2 of the friction surfaces are wasted, so it's effectively a 4 clutch pack when there's 5 in it and has to hold 1st, 2nd, and 3rd. You would think that someone would have made frictions with teeth on the ID for it by now or single sided ones. Getting creative and scraping the friction material off the side of the clutch against the backing plate and adapting a 2.5mm snap ring from B1/K1 might get me enough room to have an additional steel engage on the K3 carrier. The rest looks like it can come off the piston. I'll order the parts and play with it (without cutting the piston).

B3 only holds in reverse, so no need to mess with it. Although I'm still a little tempted to order parts and see if one more can be stuffed in...

whipplem104 · #33 05-27-2016, 08:24 AM

Do not worry about either. B2 will hold what ever you through at it. K3 is also fine. You must have an early m119 transmission. That k3 is the upgrade clutch carrier and 12 single sided frictions is what I build to for over a 1000whp. Machining the piston is doable but I found that the clutch pack did not need this.
Primarily you want to add a bit to k2 and k1. You already did k3. B1 is fine if it has 4-5 pairs in it. Honestly I do basically a clearance setup on stock tranmissions and a modified valve body for up to around 7-800whp.

300SD81 · #34 05-27-2016, 11:23 AM

The one in the car is indeed an early M119. The one being built now is off, I believe, a M113, 2002 S500.

After what seems like days on the phone with various suppliers, I finally got an order in for the individual clutches. I even called Raybestos directly at their distributor sales number, and they said that noone had EVER ordered these part numbers. If anyone else needs them, give Whatever It Takes Transmissions a call and reference order# 453551. They should know how to special order them now. I had also purchased the full pack from them initially, that one is available on their website as part# 78119CBS1. I'd just call and order it together to save shipping though, it all needs to be drop shipped from Raybestos.

MAVA · #35 06-02-2016, 05:13 PM

Great thread !!!

Question for the master builders of the 722.6...

The input shaft end play is supposed to be 0.3mm to 0.5mm, yet the ones I always see have 3mm to 5mm-Yes three to five millimeters !!!

What part constitutes this play? Will New sprag(s)cure this? Any input what part brings the repair spec back to 0.3mm to 0.5mm....

What is this record it for later?

Thank you,

Martin

300SD81 · #36 06-07-2016, 12:24 PM

Not a master builder by any means, but the sprags have nothing to do with the end play. I believe you're supposed to shim it behind the bearing on the output shaft to adjust end play, keep reading that manual, I think it says how to do it in there somewhere. Internally the output/input shafts butt up against eachother.

300SD81 · #37 06-07-2016, 08:11 PM

Decent progress. Mostly done here and everything went as planned above ^. I found that a 2.2mm snap ring from K2 is very easily adapted to B2 and along with removing the wasted friction material from the backing plate side lets me squeeze an extra 1 in with very minimal cutting of the piston, so necessary or not, it makes me feel better

Should finish reassembly this week, and it's on to the search for a high stall torque converter.

300SD81 · #38 06-23-2016, 02:44 PM

All done! I found a bellhousing for $100 on ebay, so I went ahead and got it. Can't wait to get it swapped in.

Does anyone know what these are for? They came in the rebuild kit and I haven't found a place for them.

unavita · #39 02-12-2021, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by whipplem104

Do not worry about either. B2 will hold what ever you through at it. K3 is also fine. You must have an early m119 transmission. That k3 is the upgrade clutch carrier and 12 single sided frictions is what I build to for over a 1000whp. Machining the piston is doable but I found that the clutch pack did not need this.
Primarily you want to add a bit to k2 and k1. You already did k3. B1 is fine if it has 4-5 pairs in it. Honestly I do basically a clearance setup on stock tranmissions and a modified valve body for up to around 7-800whp.

So you're saying that an early M119 trans can handle more power? Or are you asking if he has an early M119 trans?

I've just read another guru say that the late model 722.6 is the way to go?

whipplem104 · #40 02-18-2021, 11:49 AM

Late model transmissions are better units with a lot of updates. This transmission just came with a K3 housing that was later used in the v12tt transmissions. You can add an extra clutch without machining the piston. Thats all. Really all of the v8-v12 transmissions rated for 580nm and above are basically the same tq capacity for all intensive purposes. The now infamous 900nm units from the v12tt cars are no better than one in an E500.