Boosting M104 1997 E320
 

Hi guys it's been over 2 years since I gave up on my build. I replicated a Rotrex supercharger system that another member successfully did on his w124. I have a w210 97 e320.
My time off from the car included replacing some oil leaks that the m104 are prone too and trying to figure out what went wrong(bad wiring on the AEM Fic, removing the Fuellab fuel pressure regulator and wrong spark plugs)

Question, what should I gap the NGK BCP7ES plugs too. Factory gap was .32. The car is backfiring when boost kicks in.
I have new ignition coils and wires, no boost leaks.

Factory gap should be fine. How much boost are you running? You said it was backfiring, what were your afr readings?

AFRs are running rich. I just wanted to get everything ready for the shop to dyno tune. I messed around with the Aem and afrs run from 10 to 11's.
I originly went with the 95mm pulley that supposed to give me 7 psi. But I figured I lost some boost with the extra 90 bends to and from the FMIC so I dropped to 85 mm pulley that gave Blown_M104 his 11 psi.
Would the back firing prevent me from seeing boost? The Aem digital gauge only flickers between 1 and 2 psi before backfiring. I am getting boost signal from a block off plate on the intake manifold between the runners.

Are you able to ease in to it at all? If you are not getting any boost and still going very rich then you might have a really big leak somewhere. Does it run fine without the supercharger?

The car runs as normal or even a little peppy on my daily commute. I never really tried easing it to it, I just floor it and it kicks down into a lower gear.
A few things I have left to test,
Remove the FMIC and check for restrictions.
Confirm my boost gauge is reading properly
At idle its at -18 to -20 and no rough idling and normal pick ups.
When I do the the boost leak test at the intake it holds 10-15 psi for about a minute and depletes slowly.
When doing a boost leak test the flap on the throttle body is closed, is this doing the test properly?
I guess when I take it for a tune, the tuner will do a smoke test and a compression test if tuning the A/F properly still shows a problem with boost.

The car screams Drive me! But restricts driving/boost at high rpms.

One more thing. How do I put this in dyno mode to bypass the ETS? I read a post from Prodman aka Turbo_320 to connect a switch to thin black wire #5 behind the fuse box, but the triangle does not stay on show the system disabled.
EDIT: Figured out the wiring the ABS and ETS lights now comes on.
Thanks
Rock

Just came back from tuning. 229rwhp on the dyno(safe tune). Boost on log shows 7-9 psi (boost gauge not registering properly)
How much more can I push this thing before adding water/meth?

That sounds pretty down on power for an 8psi pull IMO. How did the AFR's and timing look?

my wheel hp with nitrous was around 268.You can go to 500hp at the motor with stock rods.Turbobandits

After looking at my map this morning I see that i was running too rich at max rpms (10.5) I will remove some fuel at those rpms and target 11.5-11.7. Ignition is retarded at -1 and -2 after 7psi


My goal is to get 300whp with this set up. Should I be using water/meth?
Previous member made 324whp with this set up.

Also, the dyno was a last minute thing and prior to the call I installed NGK bcp7es plugs and I gapped them to .028 instead of the factory .32. I didn't have time to set them back.
If I readjust them to factory specs as whipple said earlier, what can I expect?

Rock

Yes I would run water at least to cool the mix.I know with nitrous I closed the gap to 025

Progress
 

So I looked over my entire system today and started to count the 90 degree elbows on the intercooler system. Holy crap! I had 8 of them!! Holy restriction batman. No wonder I was not seeing any boost! I removed the entire intercooler and went directly into the throttle.
I didn't connect my laptop as yet to mess with the tune, but I can tell u guys at 2000-2500 rpm I'm seeing 2 lbs of boost. I still have the 85mm pulley installed that would give me 11psi at max rpms. My cheapo pipe strap is slipping so I can't put on the 95mm that would give me 8 psi at max rpms. I'll work on that swap in the mean time. If all is well this summer I'll go with water to air intercooler because I can fit a small cooler in the engine bay with a nice sized heat exchanger up front. Thanks for now.
Rock

My asparated 3.2 with a 3.0 twincam head and haltech just made 181hp at the wheels. Something MUST be wrong... (it was a crap/quick/safe tune too)

Are ALL spark plugs the same? you've not got a non-resistor plug in a resistor box? That can play HAVOC with a boosted/injected motor!! It may be worth trying to close the plug gaps a little, see if it picks up.

Exhaust? have you tried measuring back-pressure? maybe the excess heat has murdered your catalytic convertors, or collapsed a muffler?

Does the torque/power lines look weird? is your top end fuel map ugly?

Have you checked your timing? You have to be 1000% sure it's right, you may in fact be running 20 degrees less timing than you think, if you set the wrong "10 degree" mark on your locked base timing!!! (there are 2 x 10's and 2 x 20's) even the zero mark is confusing.

I was winding timing out while on the dyno, and when I put it back in, I accidently picked up 20H.P. (fuel and ignition trim on the dash, easy to fiddle with)

Check and make sure the little carbon conductor in the centre of the dizzy cap is intact, and that your rotor button/cap are good.

Depending on your leads, you may have ignition crossfire. carefully run your fingers over all your leads, even the coil one. One of them may have rubbed through. I just discovered one of my Magnecor KV85's has a hole in it :((((

What ignition system do you have? have you checked to see you have alternator voltage at your coil under load? Hook a multimeter up to the coil, and go for a drive. Check it!!

If this fails, get an old dizzy cap, and drill holes in it, make sure your cap-to-rotor alignment is ok. (use a timing light shining into strategically placed holes)

My money is on ignition system....

Hey, you're not running stupid fuel pressures? like 60PSI base or something crazy like that?

Listen to this guy....

I got to looking around yesterday,and found out I can buy a Supra motor with trans,under 50,000 miles for $1999.Seems to me this would be the cheapest route,than turboing a M104.The 2jz gte will run 600hp easy,without doing internal work.Looks like the trans uses flex disk to,might be able to make adapter.

Don't tell me this now I'm $7000+ deep. Lol