Egr delete
 

97 e320 w/ Rotrex supercharger/m104 engine.

Any advise on how to delete the EGR and secondary air pump without any CEL's. I tried removing the fuse for the pump but after some miles the ecu throws the code.

99 s320 I removed vac line,and unplugged pump,also blocked line going under valve cover.No problems.

Clear this up plz.
 

My system has a vac hose to a switchover valve.
Then vac is then ran to the egr under the valve cover. Egr to engine and then pump to egr.
So I should,
1. I remove the egr and install a block off plate on the engine.
2. Block the vac that came to the egr from the switch over valve(or just cap it at the valve)
3. unplug and remove the pump.

That simple?

Thecreason I want to remove the pump is so I can route a cold air intake behind the fog light. The 3" pipe cannot squeeze through when the pump is there.

97 does not have EGR ( the older ones did, the tube went around the back of the head ) , you only have an electric driven AIR pump below the alternator and a solenoid valve under the front plastic cover. Leave it hooked up as you are accomplishing no performance gain by unplugging it.

The AIR pump runs for a minute or so when cold then once again when the engine is warmed up and at idle as an OBD 2 test. What the ECU is looking for is a rapid drop in S1 B1 O2 voltage to confirm the pump is working.

I just read post 3 stating the need for space. You could push the pump into the area behind the bumper or anywhere that does not get doused in water.

No EGR?
 

Is this not an EGR?
Anyways, what gains if any will I get by delete ting the EGR?

Nope. Its the diverter valve for the air injection. Nothing to be gained by futzing with it but a C/E light.

Good to know
 

Ok So I won't mess with that if there's nothing to gain. Thank you all for the clarification.

I just found a way to route the cold air. I hope the plastic on this accordion intake tube will last. At a later time I guess I'll have a shop fabricate some smoother curved 3" piping.

Can't wait to see my iats in colder climate.

Rock

Heat shield
 

Made a heat shield. For the rest of the intake pipe and charger in the engine bay. Used two pieces of aluminum sheets with blobs of high temp gasket maker in between for an air pocket.
Intake air temperature is a about +3 degrees than whatever outside temps are. No more 120+ temps to the charger from engine bay.

What you did helps but you really need an intercooler on the outlet of the blower. When air is compressed it heats up due to the molecules of air rubbing into each other. For packaging sake, an air to water unit might be a better fit.

I pondered that idea but the cooler will be directly over the factory exhaust manifold. It didn't seem to make sense. I ended up with the AEM water/meth injection kIt. I'm currently just spraying straight distilled water until I get a dyno tune, then I'll go 51/49 water/meth. Spray currently set to come on 2psi.
Isn't that good enough? I don't do spirited driving every day so the tank goes very slowly.

Take a look at an intercooler from a GM Cyclone / Typhoon. These are a 2 step intercooler where boost air is cooled with water then that water is cooled by a small separate radiator ( heater core size ) It is a bit more work but if you have packaging issues it works.

Your thoughts
 

Take a look at these links of a small intercooler and small radiator. These sizes I can fit. Will it be sufficient to cool down the air temps? I can make these work. I just have to build a heat shield below the cooler from the exhaust manifold.

Barrel Water to Air Intercoolers

Transmission Cooler

Will a caller like this work? http://m.autoanything.com/drivetrain-differentials/flex-a-lite-compact-oil-coolers

Custom intercooler
 

Here is the deal, can i get someone to build a custom water to air intercooler with my provide specs? This drawing makes the most of the space I have to work with. Trying to keep the 2" intercooler piping for low end torque.

12 x 9.5 x 2.5(thick)
2" in/out
3/4" water in/out

You would need to figure out how much air you are flowing through your current engine to determine if the cooler is large enough.

The Silicone Intakes site makes some reference that using a standard air to air intercooler that has been modified to have water running through the core then boost pressure running where the cooling air used to run is not so good. I don't know that is a problem other than taking up too much space.

If I did use a low cost air to water cooler, I'd tend to plumb the system so water drains from the cooler when the engine isn't running and make it a non pressurized system. I'd be concerned that a small leak from water to air would hydralock the engine when it was off.

Tubing size won't add to or take away from torque, it has to do with lag between the time the throttle is opened and pressure rises.

For the cooler in your post 14 , I'd run the other water connection on the other side of the cooler and a top to bottom flow ( or bottom to top as this would tend to keep the intercooler full of water.) . If both are on the same side the water will tend to take the shortest path.