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  #166  
Old 02-29-2020, 01:50 PM
rwd4evr's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by t walgamuth View Post
Brilliant choice of Lemons car! Any departure from stock other than making it usable seems a detraction to the reliability to me though. Does it really have to be fast?
It's dead reliable, fast and handles great. I'd use for lemons if it was properly caged and I had the money for all the safety equipment and registration. Plus I don't know who else I would want on my team that can drive it as well as I can and not put it in a wall. The only real issue would be mileage. It's kind of important if you want to win. This thing is horrible on gas. The trans syncros could use a change too.

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  #167  
Old 02-29-2020, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fonzi View Post
I’m not sure Jason still wants to use this car for lemons. He’s been using it as a drift and autocross car though. He did have one welded diff have its bolts fall out though. But that was after daily driving it for quite some time I think.





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I'm a fan of this in car after I did the custom exhaust. I also just found this feature on it from premium fuel magazine.

https://youtu.be/NjvNVXF8LsY

https://youtu.be/039JqZlMiEw

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
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Last edited by rwd4evr; 03-01-2020 at 05:08 AM.
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  #168  
Old 11-30-2020, 03:54 AM
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The last drift event of the season was Saturday.I need to improve the car so its at the level I've gotten to driving, so I finally made a big change suspension wise to the car over the past week. As I've progressed my skills drifting and moving into tandem and more multi car situations on track I've been suffering from a lack of forward bite, or traction to accelerate. All the lowering of the car changes the instant Center of the rear suspension and does bad things for traction. I installed the anti squat rear control arms from a 560SL. This involved making a custom sway bar with heim joints for the upper link to the hub carriers to use with my custom twin linked rear sway bar setup. I also machined custom subframe bushings and control arm bushings from delrin (actually UHMW-PE or ultra high molecular weight polyethylene and basically the same as delrin) rod I got at grainger.
The reason I've waited so long to try this was that I can't use my dual caliper set up on these control arms. Having a hydraulic handbrake is pretty important so it is actually set up temporarily with the foot brake only controlling the front brakes and the handbrake on the rear brakes. I don't really like this setup because in emergency evasion situations you have to grab the handbrake as well or have a greater risk of locking up the fronts and hitting a spinning car you are following. I will address that shortly.
The rear subframe bushings are just stepped bushings that replace the soft rubber upper donut between the top of the subframe and the car. It fits very snuggly on the 22mm tube that comes out of the bottom of the chassis and has a tapered step that fits nice and snug in the 45.5 mm hole on the top of the subframe. I made it 4 mm thicker than the original which lowers the subframe slightly and changes the roll center a bit. I'd like more, but flex discs won't tolerate too much missalignment I assume so I was conservative.
The control arm bushings are the same material and happen to have the same I.D. at 22 mm but have the center steel tube of the original rubber bushings pressed in. I used a couple pieces of tubing and sockets to press the centers out of the rubber bushing and used a really gnarly wire brush cup on an angle grinder to remove that bonded rubber. Definitely a pain in the ass but not as much as machining all new correct sized tubes to use in the bushings. They are 41.8 mm or so O.D.
The sway bar is actually the upper control arm in the anti squat setup. I made a twin, linked together sway bar set up quite a while back I can't remember if I posted about that or not on this thread. The shape of the anti squat sway bar and the conventional sway bar the r107 chassis has is not quite the same, so to use the same setup and also eliminate the rubber bushing that the sway bar/control arm attaches to the hub carrier I just cut the ends off another stock sway bar and welded grade 8 5/8" fine thread bolts on to the stumps and used 5/8 chromoly rod ends which put the attachment point in exactly the right place with a spacer to move it out to the correct location to clear everything.
The great thing about the way this setup worked is that the rear control arm mount/sway bar mount just bolts to the bottom of the car in a clamshell mount, flat on the bottom of the frame rail. It's directly underneath the spot the original bracket was that holds the original sway bar, in the framerail in a cut out. So I was able to use the space above it to hold the second sway bar in it's stock location which is up in the frame rail in its cut out, and put the new sway bar in it stock location below in the same bolt holes. So now I can simply use washers to lower the mount which increases antisquat of the suspension and increases forward bite.
The car responded incredibly well. It feels like a completely different car with these changes made. It definitely took a little while to figure it out, I was feeling a lack of grip and was spinning out. I was driving it the same as I did before with a lot of abrupt on and off throttle, basically full throttle to half throttle. The car never seem to be upset by it before but it didn't have the anti squat to load/unload the tire under power. When I realized the car actually was making more grip under high throttle I could then just slowly lift off when I had to and keep more traction. After figuring that out and adjusting my driving it was great. I was having trouble closing up on cars I was following before the changes and it's so much better now. I actually dropped the sway bar/control arm mount down about 4 washers or 3/8" half way through the day to see if there was a noticable difference on the second set of the same tires and there was.
I would have to guess the stiffend bushings and subframe bushings had a pretty good effect on the way that the car felt and behaved stability wise. Body roll was significantly reduced. The snap of the body rolling over in transition was much better and easier to predict.
This does mean great things but it may end my drift development on this car as it's still a rusty mess in places. Granted I've bashed it in a couple times but that is kinda less important. I want a car that will look decent and has a clean racecar type interior. It needs to be fully caged to take it to the next level with me. A r107 is a much shorter wheelbase and Will change directions easier and quicker. I have a rust free 450SL chassis and engine that I bought already stripped. It may end up getting built this winter with all the stuff I've learned from the SLC. We'll see about that.

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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
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Last edited by rwd4evr; 11-30-2020 at 04:31 AM.
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  #169  
Old 11-30-2020, 08:07 AM
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Video link of that FB video?
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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,
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  #170  
Old 11-30-2020, 05:20 PM
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https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=4027406807286745&id=100000523955283&sfnsn=mo


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WARNING!!! VINTAGE MERCEDES MAY MULTIPLY UNCONTROLABLY!!! I have tons of Sl/Slc parts w108 w111 w126 and more. E-mail me with needs
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  #171  
Old 12-14-2020, 03:21 AM
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I have finally broken something mechanical while drifting. Right rear axle let go right at the end of the day. Looks like it broke right where the splines meet the full diameter axleshaft entering the differential. Totaly freewheeling on the right. It pulled out a tiny bit and wasn't touching the Spud in there and luckily wasn't able to walk all the way out, so towing home wasn't an issue. Tough to believe the broken axle and the new antisquat giving me more traction aren't related, but it's been getting beaten on for 3 years.
Hey Roncallo! Are the 185mm and 210mm diffs using the same inner axle size? I don't have both cracked open around here at the moment.

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  #172  
Old 01-28-2021, 03:06 AM
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Many big changes being implemented. I've got a 210 mm 3.69 ratio rear out of a w140 chassis car. I have to build a custom subframe using parts from a Gen 2 w126 grafted onto a c107 subframe. Even though they use the same splines on the axles, the 185mm diff uses less of the spline and leaves an exposed area to twist and ultimately break. The 210mm axle stubs also do not neck down as much at the spline ends either.
So with the w140 chassis diff case, there are no 4 studs to mount it in the subframe like the c107,w114,116,123,126 gen 1 cars. It mounts similar to the gen 2 case but uses differt front mounts and rear cover. I'm going to build a jig with the gen 1 diff bolted in to the c107 subframe with a Gen 2 w126 diff cover/mount and weld a cut off section of a Gen 2 w126 subframe (yellow triangle)onto the c107 subframe using the diff cover as a place holder. Then make a temporary jig from the subframe to the holes on the drive flange to hold the front of the diff in place while i build a new mount for the front of the diff to the subframe. A slightly complicated way to be sure that stock axles and drive shaft will fit.
Up front I made custom delrin bushings and I'm in the process of building a jig on my new table 2 extend the control arms using a spare front subframe to make sure everything stays in line properly. I'll be able to get a few more degrees steering angle which really need and more importantly a little more clearance to keep from touching the inner fender wells and subframe at full lock.
This along with a little more power from a euro 4.5 should make this year's drift season really awesome. I can't wait. Lots to do!

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  #173  
Old 07-19-2021, 07:18 PM
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Well, converting my 300SD to manual took up most of my off-season after the replacement engine got destroyed. Been running without another axle breaking incident but it has been grenading flex discs here and there. The older and more petrified the better it seems. Last event I entered a competition and ended up first pair out. The same guy I lost to(but I held my own well) in my first comp when I had almost no experience running tandems ended up pairing up with me again in a 350-400hp 2jz powered Lexus is-300 fully built drift car. I wasn't letting that happen again. Competition consists of two runs, one leading one following and is judged on speed, angle, correct line on the track and proximity to the lead car while following. He lead first and I knew I needed a very good follow since my lead runs were very good. He totally blew it and spun entering the first turn and I had nowhere to go when he blew it a second time and continued to roll backwards into my only escape route. I drilled him driver headlight to driver headlight mowed through his fiberglass fender and headlight then caught his front tire on my bumper mount which launched my car about a foot + in the air. Wrecked lots of body stuff but still drivable. Unfortunately it cracked the oil pan when it slammed down so I couldn't continue. I fixed it and drifted all the next day. Got it home and found the frame rail was only bent upwards in front of the subframe mount and went to work straightening it with a chain to the floor and a jack. Replaced the fender with a good one besides the rust hole in the tip. After all that I decided to do a "quick spray paint job" since she was getting more and more haggard looking and the patina didn't match. It snowballed quickly into a lot of body work. It came out well and being spray paint it's easy to touch up when more stuff happens. Custom fit a modified trans am rear spoiler too. It need a trim in the back and a filler panel but doesn't look bad at all.

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  #174  
Old 07-20-2021, 01:45 PM
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That car looks nice! All hunkered down like an old timey rally car.
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  #175  
Old 07-25-2021, 02:01 PM
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Thanks. It's lowered quite a bit. The front roll center is too low now though. I'm extending the lower ball joint to compensate for the suspension lowering when I get some time. It still works very well at this point but a little more roll then I want in the front.

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  #176  
Old 07-25-2021, 02:05 PM
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That's the day I dragged her out of the bushes.

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  #177  
Old 07-25-2021, 02:06 PM
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Wow I never really looked at this pic but you can actually see how bent the passenger rear control arm/subframe were.

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  #178  
Old 09-12-2021, 02:30 AM
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That didn't last long. Ive been saying " as soon as I paint this thing it's getting hammered" for years now. Well it did. Got to the second round in the competition and Lost to a 350hp E36 v8 swap bmw. I did ok but spun the tires on take off and was a step behind in my follow. Got a great lead in but he was stuck to my door pretty well so I lose.

Made a huge mistake later in the night and got way too far back in a "train" of 10 plus cars. I was somewhere in the 7 or so slot and I really wasn't sure who was ahead. I lost my tandem partner after the last run so I ended up at the end of a train in which isn't soooo bad, but then I got more behind me. Should have not gone. Had the bad feeling.....went hard..... Some body spun on initiation or very shortly after and I basically had just initiated when the guy infront of me gets on the brakes hard. The car was already unloaded and front brakes were essentially useless. Drilled a mustang and went under his bumper. Wrecked grill,hood, fender, cross member new electric fans, radiator.
Got hit in the rear by one car then he got hit too.

Both ends getting rebuilt now. Lighter and easier to fix this time around. I'm skinning the whole rear off another car. Gutting any double layer stuff around the taillights. It will bolt on in front of the wheel wells and around the back windows, the c-bomb will have all the smashed body work cut off from about just forward of the rear wheel all the way up to the body line below the glass and everything from the trunk line back cut off. Also removing most of the framework behind the sway bar. It's shoved sideways and half rotted. Rebuilding in "1.5X3.5 rectangle tube with a crush section around it. The rear of the body will be mounted off it and be able to move instead of completely smashing on any impact.

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  #179  
Old 09-12-2021, 07:16 AM
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Ouch!
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[SIGPIC] Diesel loving autocrossing grandpa Architect. 08 Dodge 3/4 ton with Cummins & six speed; I have had about 35 benzes. I have a 39 Studebaker Coupe Express pickup in which I have had installed a 617 turbo and a five speed manual.[SIGPIC]

..I also have a 427 Cobra replica with an aluminum chassis.
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  #180  
Old 09-13-2021, 12:15 AM
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Looks like a bit of a project. Hope it goes well.

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W111 280SE 3.5 Coupe
Manual transmission

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'64 Jaguar XKE Roadster
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