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  #1  
Old 08-31-2016, 12:02 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
97 S420 vibration issues

I've seen a few posts with similiar problems, but none with the specific symptoms I'm experiencing. So, hopefully someone has some insight.

1997 S420 - 200k miles

Small vibration through the body and seats(probably only noticeable to myself and other "car" people riding in the car) when car is stopped but in Drive, or moving at about 70mph (between 1900 and 2300 RPM). No noticeable vibration in Neutral or Park.

Seemed to me to be a standard bad motor mount issue. So I just changed them. no Difference. I DIDN't change the transmission mount, thinking that the motor mounts would at least change the magnitude of the vibration. No change (although the mounts were very bad, so it was worth doing anyway). I would say its a bad wheel balance - except the vibration is still there while stopped. And NOT there between 1-65 mph.

So thoughts? I drive about 100 miles everyday in this car (which I know, is going to be a challenge) - so I'd like to solve annoyances before they become problems.

Thanks for you help!
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  #2  
Old 10-10-2016, 07:09 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
Updates

Because I know I'm not the only one with these issues. I wanted to update this post. I've done a few things, some of which have made a difference, some haven't. All in all, I think I've reduced the shutter by about 60% - so here is what I've done, and how much of the 60% the specific fix helped:

1 - transmission mount - 0% (the one I took off was probably totally fine)
2 - new coils all around - 40% (I actually had one go bad, which made a light go off in my head, so I changed them all - big improvement)
3 - Oil Guides - changing them as they go bad to upgraded versions 0-10% I think it actually has helped... although its hard to say, could just be plecebo effect.
4 - Check wheel bearing torque/health. This has made a HUGE difference at speed. Probably 75% reduction at speed (still minor shake, but I'm sure the flex discs are in need of replacement, and the driveshaft is probably out of balance) and one of the wheel (the front right) actually had about 1/64th inch of play in the bearing - which would definitely cause a vibration at speed.
5 - Injector cleaner (techron through the fuel tank) - 5%
6 - new fuel filter - 0-5% again, this might be plecebo effect.


Next up I'll be cleaning the air intake parts (although they look really good, and the fuel trim is well within range - so I don't think its an air delivery problem - although the MAS could be giving faulty readings)

And Im considering changing the Camshaft position sensors, and magnets. AS well as the crank sensor. Anyway, if you have any thoughts. I'd love to hear them. I'll probably being doing most of these fixes in November, since my car fixin' budget was just blown on a new radiator for my wifes car.
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  #3  
Old 10-11-2016, 05:21 AM
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my stock wheels were bent,one bent sideways as bad as 6 inches.I upgraded to 2004 s class wheels.
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  #4  
Old 10-20-2016, 05:47 PM
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Location: Los Angeles, CA
Posts: 1,615
Quote:
Originally Posted by Critchlopez View Post
Because I know I'm not the only one with these issues. I wanted to update this post. I've done a few things, some of which have made a difference, some haven't. All in all, I think I've reduced the shutter by about 60% - so here is what I've done, and how much of the 60% the specific fix helped:

1 - transmission mount - 0% (the one I took off was probably totally fine)
2 - new coils all around - 40% (I actually had one go bad, which made a light go off in my head, so I changed them all - big improvement)
3 - Oil Guides - changing them as they go bad to upgraded versions 0-10% I think it actually has helped... although its hard to say, could just be plecebo effect.
4 - Check wheel bearing torque/health. This has made a HUGE difference at speed. Probably 75% reduction at speed (still minor shake, but I'm sure the flex discs are in need of replacement, and the driveshaft is probably out of balance) and one of the wheel (the front right) actually had about 1/64th inch of play in the bearing - which would definitely cause a vibration at speed.
5 - Injector cleaner (techron through the fuel tank) - 5%
6 - new fuel filter - 0-5% again, this might be plecebo effect.


Next up I'll be cleaning the air intake parts (although they look really good, and the fuel trim is well within range - so I don't think its an air delivery problem - although the MAS could be giving faulty readings)

And Im considering changing the Camshaft position sensors, and magnets. AS well as the crank sensor. Anyway, if you have any thoughts. I'd love to hear them. I'll probably being doing most of these fixes in November, since my car fixin' budget was just blown on a new radiator for my wifes car.


Glad to see that you were able to somewhat resolve the issue and continue to document the work. If you have done other DIY projects and documented the work, you may be interested in our DIY Project Expert program. If we publish your tech article; we'll give you 10% off your next order. If you have any interest, check out the link below. We can always use more tech info on the W140.

Enthusiast Tech Article Submissions - Pelican Parts


-Dmitry
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  #5  
Old 10-28-2016, 11:29 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
Thumbs up Update 2

thanks for the replies guys, I've actually considered that the wheel might be bent... but a new wheel is far more money than some of the other possibilities... and I try to do the cheapest fixes first (although most of the time it snow-balls).

So, here is the LATEST update. I installed a brand new Front wheel bearing... for those of you interested, its a pretty easy job with a little thought, and made a significant difference.

-remove the wheel
-remove the brake caliper (tie out out of the way, careful not to kink the hose) Two 11mm (If I remember right) bolts on back of caliper.
-remove the brake rotor/wheel mount (M5 allen)
- Loosen 5mm allen tensioner on the spindle
- unscrew retaining nut (might need some help for the first 1/4 turn, I use a over the nut with a c-wrench so as not to damage the nut or spindle) but it should easily spin off
- the hub and bearing will then slide off the spindle.
-Remove the rear seal,
-remove the bearings
- use a drift and drive the bearing rails out of the hub (remember to drive evenly of they will get stuck side-ways and ruin your life.
-install in reverse order, remember to drive the bearing rails in carefully and evenly.
- Remember to PACK the bearing, not just put grease on the outside but smash it INTO the bearing (place a generous doloup of grease on one CLEAN palm, and press and scoop the bearing into the doloup with the other hand - should take about 40 grams, roughly 1/4 cup, to properly pack the bearing)
- the specs on this car also want 60grams of grease in the intermediate area between the two bearings (60 grams is about between a 1/3 and a 1/4 cup)
- The spindle nut is fickle, unlike many american cars it doesn't torque on, at least not like one might think. I hand tighten it, making sure the the bearings are seating all the way in, then SLOWLY give it about another 1/4 turn. when properly tightened the hub will spin freely in your hand, but stop after about 15 degrees of rotation when spun... In other words, there should be enough resistance in the hub to stop it from spinning like a top. With the wheel on, I get about 1 full rotation when I spin and let go.

ANYWAY - after replacing the bearing I reduced the shake by another 50%. the remaining shake that I do have is probably due to the tire being mostly destroyed by the bad bearing (it has a VERY low spot on it) So... new tires next!
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  #6  
Old 10-28-2016, 11:30 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmitry at Pelican Parts View Post
Glad to see that you were able to somewhat resolve the issue and continue to document the work. If you have done other DIY projects and documented the work, you may be interested in our DIY Project Expert program. If we publish your tech article; we'll give you 10% off your next order. If you have any interest, check out the link below. We can always use more tech info on the W140.

Enthusiast Tech Article Submissions - Pelican Parts


-Dmitry

I'll look into that! Thanks Dmitry. I actually have notice a significant lack of w140 tech articles.
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