I have a 1974 US spec 450SLC that I'm in the process of making less slow and less rusty. I've already done most the cosmetic stuff and now I have a set of subframes from a R107 that have the anti squat rear, a worn out LSD, and the fronts are ready to be reinforced. I don't know why it would be any different but I read somewhere that the R107 and C107 use different rear subframes.

I want to be able to take these down to bare metal and make them better than new before swapping in all new suspension at both ends without having to down my car for too long. Then I'll be on the hunt for some more power and a better transmission.

I'd be very surprised to hear it doesn't fit. I can't imagine there's a difference between the SL and the SLC. (Small print: there might be something I'm missing though!)

The anti-quat was fitted to the 560SL as well as the W126 (also 560SE{L}). I've got a get of the trailing arms and plan to fit them to my W123 - they slot into the W123 subframe - I just need to figure out something for the anti-roll bar. User greaser was the last person to contact me about this - I'm not sure how he's getting on with this though (he might be the first one to actually do this to a W123)

...anyway - forgetting about W123s for a minute - I can't see why there would be a problem for your SLC - you might need to add in an extra hole for the anti-roll bar but I reckon it should all bolt up. Still just in case I'm wrong - take the subframes off - measure and compare the parts side by side before you start making them beautiful.

If you find a source for the expensive bearings in the anti-squat system in the trailing arms please let me know.

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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

R107 rear subframe is unique, but the following use the same rear subframe:
- c107
- w114/115
- some w123
- maybe even w126, not sure about w126 though.


I'm pretty sure the rear control arms are the same for all the above in the stamped steel standard (non-anti squat) version.

So you will have to move all the stuff from the r107 subframe to the c107 subframe to make it work. I may be looking at a similar job moving everything from a 1988 560sl rear subframe to my 1985 280sl rear subframe because I know those subframes are also different (gen1 r107 vs gen2 r107).

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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,

Thanks for the info both of you. It sounds like I should just R&R my subframe and put these parts on it. That's not a big deal but means I'm going to have to have everything lined up ahead of time.

I'll let you know what I find Stretch. It will be at least a moth before I'm buying parts for this though. I might also be making my own body mount bushings out of poly to save on the $300 pricing.

On a side note how does the anti squat actually work? The sub frame is still on the donor so I haven't had a chance to actually look at it and think about it. Its amazing to me that mercedes managed to make anti squat geometry without changing the pickup points.

Looking at some photos it looks like the location of that lower bearing is below the center line of the wheel so as the control arm is loaded up it creates a torque on the hub that rotates it opposite the wheel's rotation using the second link.

I think there's a description of how it works in the W126 FSM. I'll see if I can dig it out (probably take a month too!)

__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver
1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone
1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy!
1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing

I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior



Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits!

It really comes down to simple geometry. I would like to see a little graphic, but you can take a look and think about the force that the wheel puts on the suspension and how the suspension reacts.

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Past mb: '73 450sl, '81 280slc stick, '71 250, '72 250c, '70 250c, '79 280sl, '73 450sl, parted: '75 240d stick, '69 280s, '73 450slc, '72 450sl,