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Differential Build Tool Ideas
I would like to start this thread as a place to put ideas for differential building tools.
What have you used or adapted or made to do this job. I have attached a few of my own ideas and tools I made or had made in China. Also if there is any interest in Chinese made tools I can design them and have them made, if there is significant interest. The attached pictures show: My differential stand with adapter plate I made to fit to a Ford 9" diff stand. Pinion Depth setting tool A mandrel for pressing pinion bearings on that I am having quoted right now. If anyone is interested in these let me know this week. Modifications I have done to use an OTC 4534 bearing puller kit to remove the side bearings from a 126/107 210mm diff. More will come as I get more into this, but I know there are other people here that can contribute to this thread.
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To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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What are you using for a case spreader?
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Not so smart looking stuff (but)
Oooo that looks nice and shiny and professional
To be honest I don't like to put that kind of effort into special tools that will then clutter up my already full up workshop - I have a system of chuck 'em once done - for that reason I make things from wood where necessary. Wood can have a second use even if it is just to end up in the wood burning stove! For my Volvo PV544 build I did, however, make a metal case spreader which could easily be adapted for Mercedes differentials => If folks here want the full set of pictures I took I can add them here too (but they can be found if you register and log in to the Volvo forum thread linked in my sig) #### I'm of the opinion that the pinion and crown wheel measuring equipment is a bit of a luxury - I'm sure it can help - but in most situations you are fixing something that has already been "calculated". The only way to check for properly meshing cogs is to use engineers blue and look at the contact patterns... ...the trick to getting that right is to apply some braking force to the crown wheel to make sure the pinion and crown wheel are properly loaded. For a Series Land Rover differential I resorted to wood and some spare half shafts => https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/1965-series-2a-station-wagon-in-holland.298002/page-23#post-3885354 All very Heath Robinson I know but I'm aiming for effect rather than posh special tools (!)
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Not required for an MB 126/107 diff. Case is pre-loaded with the side caps.
__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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Quote:
__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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Have you been having troubles finding the shims at a reasonable price?
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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Quote:
Yes, having transferred parts from one to another on various models, keeping pinion shims with the housing works fine. Housings are machined but gears are ground making them more consistent. Even with taking gear variation in account, once things wear the pattern changes. Another consideration. Gear sets in general are categorized as Hunting , Semi Hunting and Non Hunting. A Hunting gear always has the same drive tooth engaging on the same driven tooth. Semi has a repeating pattern and Non a pattern where each tooth eventually contacts another tooth. If one takes apart a Hunting / Semi gear set and reclocks it, it might make noise / have variable backlash. I have not gone to the extent to mark or check what system gear sets I'm working on use. |
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Quote:
I haven't been down that road yet but I have plenty of diff to scrounge from and a surface grinder.
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To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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Quote:
However using the shims that came with the case and adjusting the stack as stated above is a really good thing to do it you cant do an out right measurement. Quote:
Clocking would be more of a consideration for a non-hunting mesh where the gear set will always see the same tooth contact. But in either case if you have a measurable variation in backlash or gear pattern, its time to chuck the gear set. My 1969 Mercury Cougar had a 3.0 diff.
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To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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If you're doing a lot of these differentials in the future I reckon you're gonna need a good source for shim material. The dealership costs are not in my opinion reasonable and a lot of the shims I have bought have not been the thickness I wanted - pain in the arse (especially as I don't have a controlled way to modify them
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1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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From what I recall, the gears were not marked for variation or any paint marking was long gone by the time we took things apart. Possible, I didn't do a complete fact check. |
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McMaster Carr here in the states will custom make shim's of course you have to order them by the sheet meaning all sizes on the sheet will be the same. I will also have to check with them on what material is available. MB says these shims must be hardened. There are plenty of places that will custom make these but small quantities makes it difficult. Perhaps if there are a couple of guys on this forum that would like to order shims in a select set of sizes we could justify a group buy. I suspect the interest would be low so if three guys were interested they would end up with 10 sizes with 5 of each size or something like that. Expensive but might be cheaper than MB. How about the side cap shims, same problem?
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To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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Quote:
__________________
To see my 129 parts for sale visit: http://stores.ebay.com/The-Mercedes-SL-Store John Roncallo |
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I've found the cost of shims has been similarly expensive for Volvos and for Land Rovers.
__________________
1992 W201 190E 1.8 171,000 km - Daily driver 1981 W123 300D ~ 100,000 miles / 160,000 km - project car stripped to the bone 1965 Land Rover Series 2a Station Wagon CIS recovery therapy! 1961 Volvo PV544 Bare metal rat rod-ish thing I'm here to chat about cars and to help others - I'm not here "to always be right" like an internet warrior Don't leave that there - I'll take it to bits! |
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